KeithT

Hey all,  I vaguely started looking for fretsaw for my birthday, then discovered a bewildering range of fretsaws and scroll saws accross a wide price range i.e. £50 to £450 ! Does anyone have any recommendations for softwood / plywood cutting fret- or scroll saw in the lower price band max. £150 ? Perhaps a pros / cons list too if you feel strongly ? cheers Keith

Ok thanks guys - I suspected glass needed solid surfaces, and as I have already put the tips on, going for film of some description sounds like a plan - I was only asking about glass as it sounded interesting.

I'm (slowly) building a Wot 4 classic (straight wing) and was considering how to cover the wing / fuselage.  The instructions mention possibly glassing the wing - my question is how is this achieved over the wingtips of a wing with ribbed tip? i.e. not flat or solid tip, if you take my meaning.  or do the instructions suggest glassing with reference only to the Mark III version which may have different wing tip design to the classic? 

Heh, no worries;  forum posts are easily misinterpreted. In this case I suspect the instructions are fine for someone who already has some experience with engines ( though I guess they would be more likely to ignore them !), but I found them a touch vague for a complete beginner, and a pedantic one at that.  I have yet to fire it up again - I may have a go this week just to prove to myself it still works Thanks for all the input, and I may end up posting piccies of my covering efforts on a Wot 4 ... 

Hey Allan  I didn't realise you frequented the boards I'm just hoping that by bank holiday week the weather has improved significantly....

Alan B I haven't touched the needle since, but I suspect it was leaned from my initial position and could well be in the position you describe. It did sound very happy by the end of the adjustment. AJ, Was that meant to be facetious? In case not: a simple answer - of course. But at no point do they mention a start no. of turns for initial starting a 2-stroke engine, only that a 4-stroke engine should start 5 turns out.  This I found unhelpful. Section: Running in 2-strokes- Quote "When running in an ABC motor,  the throttle should be opened carefully to a high throttle setting ensuring the needle is opened sufficiently to allow the motor to run with a rich (4-stroking) rather than a lean (2-stroking) mixture. Carefully screw in the full speed needle in order to lean the motor until the engine startes to break from a 4-stroking sound into a 2-stroke." This rather assumes the engine is running. Lots of advice in the instructions about running-in and tuning the carb,  not about initial set-up and starting the thing! Section:  Carburettor Adjustment - Quote "In order to prime the carburettor for starting, open the full speed needle to the setting as previously described in "Running in"  Um...catch 22? 

Thanks Rick, I managed to get down to see the secretary of CADMAC, Allan D.  and he's sorted it.  He effectively did what you've both said - I had the prop nut too loose and I think I had the carb way too open; certainly I had way more than 1mm open + clicks. After priming and some expert hand flicks he had it working in around, ooo...2 mins?  Most impressed.  We chatted awhile and I had a go with the electric starter - when it's set to go, it goes with just a touch of spin, very easy.  Then I had a couple more go's, got home and did it again just to prove to myself it works  It'll be a couple of weeks before I can get out but hopefully the bank holiday week weather will be suitable to try it in the air...   

Thanks for the advice, I'll try checking the plug and lower throttle to start. Definitely not learning solo - I'm in the process of joining a club, but being located in central Northumberland, the nearest is around 25 miles away, and I'm conscious I do not want to waste anyones time fiddling with an engine that should already being operating.

Hi all,  I'm a noob with a Tutor 40 fitted with an SC 46 2 stroke.  I've set up the plane as per instuctions, reasonably straightforward.  Followed some advice on the forums here (thanks for all the previous unacknowleged help) and filled the tank with ProSynth 2000, 10% nitro,  needle valve out 3 turns, primed (so I thought) carb and engine with fuel, throttle one third, glowstart on and flicked.  And flicked.  Flicked for a while actually, with several near starts, but lots of carb spluttering and prop sticking.  Tried draining, tried repriming, tried slightly leaner setting.   I then noticed the flicking was shifting the prop on the spinner, tightened prop nut, returned to flicking. Not much happening.  Bought electric start.  Now repeated set piece above, applied starter and it spins a few revs then engine sticks, momentum appears to drive prop slipping against spinner back plate into spinner deforming it.  This occured twice. ( I'm concerned about applying starter where it suddenly sticks abruptly, but turning it over by hand didn't feel as though it was flooded and locked.)  Thus I've decided I'm doing something wrong somewhere.  How tight should the prop nut be?  It's on pretty tight now, so shouldn't slip.  How hard should the electric start need to be applied?  Um...why isn't my engine starting? Any help / thoughts, greatly appreciated.  PS I did try with fuel tank one third full to half full, but the carb feeder line always failed to maintain fuel - it simply syphoned back - I think this maybe due to the low position of the tank in the Tutor 40 wrt to the carb.  But it appeared bubble free with a full tank. Keith