All Activity

Mother in law was reading the Omen and said it was the most frightening book she had ever read. In fact she never finished it. She took it to a local lake and threw it in. I went straight to a book shop and bought another copy, ran in under the tap and left it on her bedside table. Think I’m going to hell for that one.

Yes, a tilting table is valuable. Thats the problem with the cheaper models, lack of a tilt. I have a cheaper one how I know. I have had full size models in the past so have some experience in use. Bas

Many thanks to the lad's. Cheque in post to cover their Haribo cravings!!

It sounds terribly quiet for a engine with a total capacity of 421cc (27 litre/4x4x4) making each cylinder 35cc and on open exhausts. Just and observation.

Aghh, my eyes. . . Lol.

Nice and lovely to see running but you can see there is very little pitch [if any] on the prop so it is not doing any work.

With formers I usually use the age old technique of pricking out the shape through the plan directly onto the wood, then just join the dots with a scalpel and straight edge (steel rules). With ribs I prick out onto a piece of thin ply, carefully cutting round it into the wood as a template. OK on a parallel chord wing.

Yup, either GG clear; or GG Brown used sparingly, and fix it in position (which I think you'll need to do with Por as well) while the glue sets.

Okay thank you. I have been doing that in the past as well. I just thought that by scoring directly over the plan it would save time.

If you don’t want the contact adhesion that POR gives you and you are worried about Gorilla Glue brown expanding then use Gorilla Glue clear (as Tom suggested above). It will give you the strongest joint.

That's some impressive flying hours considering the weather we've had this winter.

Carbon strip from here. The probably do carbon rod too. Here.

Thank you both so much! This custom build page is definitely worth it.

If you are going to use carbon rod I would sharpen the end with some sandpaper to a nice point which will make it slide easily into the foam. Just keep an eye on it to make sure it goes in straight! Having made the hole with the carbon rod, withdraw it and push some epoxy down the hole as well on the carbon rod. Gorilla glue could be an alternative. I wouldn’t use cyano in this instance as it may go off before you have it fully in place! I am assuming the model is made of EPO. Philips favoured method is also mine too, carbon strips let into the surface of the foam. The problem is the plastic moulding ‘thingy’ will have to have a slot cut, with a junior hacksaw I suggest, to facilitate the the strip running from the root across the break to reinforce it. Use a sharp scalpel blade to make the rest of the cut in the foam which will enable you to push the strip into the foam. Once in place run thin cyano along the top of the carbon which will wick into the (EPO) foam. You don’t need foam safe cyano on EPO and it does work best on this type of repair in my experience. An accelerator spray will set it solid to form a very strong joint. Two strips could be even stronger. Good luck.

My two 6S 3300mAh LiPos reached 500 cycles each today: 200 charges at 3.3A + 300 charges at 12A This means 6S flying = 1½p/min, 12S flying = 3p/min, which breaks down as: LiPo replacement @ 500 cycles (70%), Li-ion replacement @ 4 years (20%), 75kWh electricity p/a to recharge the Li-ions (10%) - only I haven't had to replace any LiPos or Li-ions yet, but that's how the budget looks as of today I'd have to fly a 6S plane for 3h20m before it cost more than the £3 of petrol to get to the field and back, so it's all academic now - if I could just stop buying planes Anyway, it's not about the money, it's about charging at 4C, which they seem to be consistently shrugging off as a non-event

Should have remembered what RTC meant!

Thanks for the advice - I never realised that you could use UHU POR as a contact adhesive - have always just used as a traditional glue.

Never heard of anything like that. If you have access to a pdf file of the plan then most (all? but certainly Foxit and Adobe) pdf viewers allow you to select part of the drawing (a rib, say) and print that. Then it's just a matter of sticking it onto either the wood itself or a something like aluminium to make a template to cut ribs (say). No tracing needed and potentially easier and more accurate.

Agree with Eric here, now that you have described the criticality in positioning and how difficult it could be getting the positioning correct, If you can clamp it in place, having got it into position then use the UHU Por conventionally, leaving it to set overnight, The perfect adhesive for this job for me would be my old friend Super Phatic, give the liteply a coating, get it into position, clamp it in place and leave it overnight.

Nigel.Don't use the Uhu as a contact adhesive unless you can garrantee getting the position right first time, For a job like that I usually coat the ply, put it in position, making sure it can't move and leave it overnight.

I think my favored method would be to use carbon strip, say 1mm wide and 3 or 4mm deep, glued into the foam, most likely using foam safe cyno but definitely use carbon to add strength.

OOOh nice model. But you could have all your fingers off at once with that baby...... Not terribly useful once you've built it.

Thanks for all the advice. I need to glue light ply plates inside the foam fuselage. The position is important as they have slots that a ply floor for the battery to slide into. Using gorilla glue sounds a bit risky as it would be difficult to hold the plates securely in position whilst the glue cures. So going to go with UHU POR. Cheers, Nigel

Looks like my Sterling Stearman and Cessna 180 are both "genuine" classics then - although the only original part in the Cessna is the steel cowl saved from my mid-70s build from the kit.