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RottenRow's Achievements



  1. Once you have installed your 80A ESC, it would be interesting to know what the current draw is at 100% (not 75%) throttle setting. It could well be up around that level, seeing that it is 55A at 75% throttle. Rather that limiting the throttle, it would be better to fit a finer pitch prop and use the full range of the throttle setting. Probably something around 75% of the pitch that you are currently using (assuming the same diameter). As Simon suggests, you are probably exceeding the rating of the 60A ESC, the electronic devices within won't like that too much. Brian.
  2. Plug a voltage monitor into the battery balance lead. Restrain the model then run it on the ground, with the same battery, for at least the length of time that you were flying it. If / when the fault occurs look at the monitor display, in particular at the balance of the cells. You might see that one has a significantly lower voltage at this point. If so, that indicates a dud cell. The voltages will return to normal once the motor has stopped for a short time. Brian.
  3. Sorry to hear that you didn’t have any success with the wiring changes. Another couple of ideas… I’m assuming that the front receiver has its own battery pack (usual for this size of model) and isn’t working off of the ESC if that has a BEC. If not, then try a separate battery pack. Have you tried swapping the front and rear receivers around, in case there is a fault with the front one? You don’t mention anything amiss with the flaps (which are on the same receiver). Are the aileron servos of a different type to the flap servos? If the aileron servos are easily removable, could you plug one directly into the receiver to see if the problem still exists? That could eliminate the extension leads from the equation. What exactly is the reaction that the aileron servos are giving? Twitching, rapid movements, or moving to a different position and staying there? Brian.
  4. When our club mower and trailer were stolen about 3 years ago we were advised that the criminals would know that a replacement would be bought and would at some point come back for that too. The suggestion was to use an alternative storage location. We were also told, by the mower supplier, that many stolen ones never resurface as they end up in Eastern Europe. Brian.
  5. Capacitors used to be added (or usually fitted as standard) on brushed motors to reduce interference caused by the brushes sparking. They won’t work on a brushless set-up. It’s likely that the long extension leads that you have on your servos are picking up spikes from the motor leads. There are a couple of things that you can try. Long extension leads should ideally be of the twisted variety, not the flat ribbon type. That helps to an extent. Also, winding the servo wires through ferrite rings reduces their ability to carry HF noise to the servos. Usually two or three turns through the ring. Also putting one on the ESC signal lead won’t do any harm. Lastly, don’t run and servo wiring alongside the ESC wires, separate them as much as possible. Brian.
  6. No problem. What I meant was that the video that is on Sarik's website wasn't produced by Sarik, it is the manufacturer's video that is also available on their own website. https://www.diatex.com/diatex-produit/covering-fabric-diacov-1000/ Anyway, it sounds as if you are on the right track now. Brian.
  7. Follow the video, ignore whatever Sarik might have verbally told you if it contradicts the video advice. They may have misunderstood your questions. The video is the manufacturer’s own production, it’s on their website too. They should know…. The temperatures stated (on the video) go up in stages from initial tacking in place, full adhesion and shrinking. The absolute maximum is 170 deg. You might not need this high a temperature, it depends on the level of shrinkage required. Alan’s previous two posts say it all. Some confusion might arise because the name Diatex is the name of the company itself (as well as the name of their main fabric products without the adhesive backing, aimed mostly at the full-size aviation business). The video is most definitely for Diacov 1000, not as stated in your original post. Here is the information sheet for Diacov 1000. DIACOV-EN-b-bd 2.pdf Brian.
  8. Perhaps Baron Bomburst is invading Wales… Best take care in your shed…. you never know…. If you’re young, look up Chitty Chitty Bang Bang. Brian.
  9. The simplest is the plug-in charger of the type that is (or was) usually supplied with radio control equipment. Trickle charge only (no fast charge) but can be left on overnight to top up the battery. Will charge both transmitter and receiver (assuming that the transmitter has a NiMH battery). Something like this… https://www.rapidrcmodels.com/futaba-tx--rx-48v---96v-ac-adaptor-uk-charger-15081-p.asp Brian.
  10. Although the lead is of the correct type, the specification for that charger states that it is only suitable for charging 6 to 8 NiMH cells. From the specifications: Cell Count: LiPo/LiFe/LiHV: 2-4S NiMH: 6-8S As a receiver pack is either 4 or 5 cells, this charger isn’t a suitable one for this purpose. Looking at the charge currents available, I think this is intended for the old NiMH flight packs. Here is the manual; I couldn’t get the link on the Overlander site to work, but this is the same charger: e455_Instruction_Manual_EN_V5.0.pdf Brian.
  11. If you are happy with your current setup Nigel then that is fine. Using a separate battery as you are for the undercarriage should prevent any problem affecting the control of the rest of the model. Longer servo arms wouldn’t help you, as the torque produced would be lessened due to the length of the arm, and the servo would be more easily stalled. Digital servos drive the motor with a PWM waveform, not pure DC. This gives greater torque at low speeds, and even at zero speed (holding torque). This is the reason why digital servos buzz even at standstill. Usually, at standstill, this peak current will be relatively infrequent and of short duration, but they’ll still buzz. Apply a bit of load and the buzz will change as the PWM drive signal to the servo motor increases in width to compensate. The peak current to the motor will be many times the current measured on a meter connected in series with the input lead, which will show an averaged out current (even if that average is taken over a very short period of time). Also the electronics inside the servo will ‘smooth out’ the input current to a degree. Your original servo could have had a fault from manufacture of course, but the slow stepping of speed caused by the use of an extended servo slow operation would have meant it was taking too much current for too long. Brian.
  12. Surely mechanical retracts have positive locks for the raised and lowered positions? There should be little demand on the servos when in either locked position. 0.8A, even for two servos, sounds like a lot of ‘standby’ current to me. As the current has been measured at about 0.2A at mid travel, the 0.8A measured in the locked positions suggests that the servos are being stalled to some degree at least. Reducing the end points slightly, to give a small amount of free play in the locks, should reduce this current with the units still being positively locked. Brian.
  13. The whole point of PayPal Friends and Family is in the name… It’s for sending money to friends and family, ie people that you know. Brian.
  14. 33% commission though. Makes ebay look cheap. Well, cheapish. Brian.
  15. I use the Perkins connector Robert, also supplied under other names. This one… https://nexusmodels.co.uk/products/j-perkins-remote-glow-lead-adaptor-mount-deluxe-5508110?variant=43776334594291&currency=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&srsltid=AfmBOoq74lNynyFBzvkPLnY0_uq6pcM43-k61w1cpK-Lh7Gq2MnCK2B6BW0 You pull on the wire slightly, press the connector over the plug and release the wire. Brian.
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