RottenRow

Yes something of that ilk. At the moment I only have threadlock (blue) which is a bit thick I think. And normal cyano. I was also wondering about K-Seal or one of the other similar products that are supposed to seal car cylinder head gasket leaks, and cracked heads. But they are intended to be added to the coolant so I don’t know if they rely upon the water as part of the curing process. They perhaps do as otherwise they would set in the bottle I suppose. Also some of these products don’t work with antifreeze so might not work with methanol either. I think some method of forced introduction of the compound will be necessary. I have an engine here on which both valve seats leak (though I haven’t investigated other possible causes yet) which could be a guinea pig for trying out a repair. Also still thinking of trying straight caster fuel (80/20), wondering if that will get the oil to seep into the leaking areas and solidify. Probably too much to expect. All food for though when I get a bit of spare time! Brian.

In this instance whatever is used will need to be extremely thin (like water), as the gap between the inserts and the casting where the leakage takes place is essentially invisible. The ‘magic substance’ will need to be drawn into that gap in some way. If a new bare head can indeed be bought for £11.19 plus tax then that would be a good solution. It seems very cheap to me, especially compared to other spares for the same engine on the same website. Brian.

I don’t see a problem with the present policies at ebay for private sellers. You now get 100% of the selling price of your item, no fees are deducted. Ebay withholds the payment until delivery has been confirmed (by including a tracking number or a code for personally collected items), then puts the money into your ebay funds. If you don’t post items using a tracked service, the money is released into your funds after a couple of weeks. These funds are then used for any purchases that you may make, or credited to your nominated bank account either upon request or automatically once every three months. Buyers now have to pay an extra fee on top of the final bid price (so-called buyer protection fee), this is only on private sellers’ items. Brian.

Hmmm… Perhaps it would be possible to connect a small vacuum pump to the exhaust outlet and suck the liquid into the source of the leak. But the valve itself would have to be a very good seal on its seat, perhaps aided by grease or something similar. Perhaps something worth pursuing with an otherwise scrap head. Brian.

Turn the engine over slowly by hand with the exhaust to your ear, and you will hear a hiss as the engine is turned over compression (or what should be compression). Alternatively, put your finger over the end of the exhaust and turn the engine over. If it now has compression it is the exhaust valve leaking. Occasionally it can be inlet valve rather than the exhaust, in which case listen to the carburettor intake with the throttle open. Check that the valve clearances are not set too tight before condemning the head itself. I have had a few like this, some will hand start, some not. I also thought about sealing them with some liquid but haven’t tried anything as yet. I’m not sure what would take the heat. I would guess it would really need forcing in, I don’t think capillary action would work. Perhaps running the engine on a caster based fuel would help, caster seems to clog things up quite well. Brian.

Override should come up in your list, one before ‘trainer’. It’s the first function on the list that you describe. I assume you are using OpenTX. Here is the page in the OpenTX user manual that describes special functions. Brian.

No it’s not! Read the thread title…. Brian.

He’s using the setup on an elevon-equipped model. Both servos moving in the same direction = elevator control (up and down) Both servos moving in opposite directions = aileron control (roll). The same two servos are used for both elevator and aileron. One of them needs to be physically reversed. I don’t think you can do it with servo reversing in the tx as that basically reverses the stick function rather than the servo. Brian.

It sounds like you have one of the servos mounted in the wrong orientation in the wing. Can you turn one of the servos over? Or put the pushrod on the other side of the output arm (depending on the physical layout)? Brian.

The battery voltage would have dropped to 3.7V on load, perhaps it only takes a fraction of a second for the alarm to detect that on any one cell and trigger the sound. Once landed, the off load voltage of the battery would have been greater, hence your higher readings. I think your 3.7V setting is too high, I would go for something like 3.4V. The battery will still probably then indicate around 3.6 to 3.7V per cell off load on your checker. If you’re not sure, try reducing the alarm set voltage in small steps then compare the results. Brian.

That’s how I do it too. Also for any packs that haven’t been over-discharged but have one or more cells that show a lower voltage than the others. I normally bring the low cells up to close to the voltage of the highest one, then balance charge the pack as normal to finish the charge. If the same cell or cells repeatedly show as a lower voltage after normal use (not over-discharge) then that pack is either relegated to low current applications, or scrapped, as the low cell has a lower capacity than the rest and is discharging more quickly. Brian.

Martin, have you tried running these with a 9V power supply rather than the PP3 batteries? Also feed the 9V straight to the board, missing out the battery clip. It’s unlikely to be the clip causing the issue but it’s easily eliminated. I had problems in the past with the Procell 9V batteries, poor performance and leak when they get old. Their AAs were fine but not the PP3s or whatever they’re now called. Also, have you tried linking together both GND pins on the Nano? Worth trying for the time it will take. Brian.

When I scrap an old LiPo I cut off the main and balance leads to keep as spares. The balance leads can then be reused as Simon describes above. When cutting the leads, cut them one wire at a time to avoid creating a short-circuit between them. If you did want to purchase new pins or connectors, the JST XH is the common one nowadays. Brian.

Fair enough, I’m not doubting you, there seems to be more than one version of the Pro as both come up in a search. Brian.

I thought the T12 Pro used a scroll wheel, rather than the pushbuttons of the standard T12. Open TX Companion v 2.3.15 does include the Jumper T12 and the T12 Pro in the drop down ‘radio type’ menu, they both use the same file. Presumably they worked with a previous version of OpenTX loaded? Brian.