Engine Doctor

If you can insulate the area you need they could be left on pretty much indefinately provided you have a big enough tank and a reliable power source of course.

No it can still move and negate or alter the elevator rudder settings. A mod with a wooden locating beam will be a better option . With that , unless the bands snap completely it wont move enough to make it uncontrolable.

You need more rubber bands on that tail plane Gary or better still fix it permanently or at least on a locating spigot do it cant move in flight. We had a Majestic Major ( big j 60 ish) die at the field when the tail moved !

Yes fired up fine . I now run it on kerosene / heating oil as it cheaper than diesel . No adjustment needed. I use mine in a double garage and set it to 25 c it usually goes to idle after a couple of hours then speeds up if the temp falls. In very cold or windy weather it generally runs at full speed and uses about 3 ltr of kero in 6 hrs or so. The beauty of these heaters is that they dont cause any condensation as all exhaust is expelled outside.

Think of the portal as similar to your precious computerised Tx . If your like me you only use a fraction of its functions and capabilities😉.

It must be all to do with the short days and horrible weather as this moan occurs each year . The AGM's on wet gloomy nights dont help obviously haveing to make financial increases to sustain our clubs. Without the BMFA and possibly the LMA model flying would I feel be just a distant memory . They offer sage advice and practical help where needed . In our clubs case they offered advice when obtaining Certificate of Lawful use / limited planning permission and practical advice and encouragement when Andy visited our site as a large solar farm was being built next to our site, and without any additional cost to our club. Without them having a good relationship and negotiating good insurance rates other insurers would i feel have milked us out of existance with higher premiums. Dont forget any insurance company who will still cover our hobby is only competetive due to the BMFA negotiated rates. Also remember the often overlooked personal accident and club equipment cover included that other insurance companies would laugh at or charge the earth for and god forbid you have a claim!. Stop knocking the BMFA they have a hard enough job as it is and lets face it a £5 increase isnt the end of the world ; its not even a pint of beer or ten fags for those folk who inhabit the downwind part of the pits😉 and £47 a year is only half atank of fuel Carry on like this and we will score an own goal / shoot our selves in the foot or whatever euphamism you like to use . Get positive and back those that stand up for us and our hobby. Hindsight has 20/20 vision through rose tinted lenses . Stop harking on the past and lets move forward in positive way

Good luck with build, hopes it goes well . Pics ?

Pics for making a Balsa cowling . A Davids plane then a sanding block to shape . This took a couple of hours .

Best way to glue PP is to find another material. Its too waxy to glue. Have you tried gluing a candle stick? It can be welded but not glued. Why are you useing it ? Virtually any shape cowl can be built using balsa block method. You should be able to find a post with pics on here with a search . Tack Glue blocks of balsa to the front of fuz filling inside with blicks were you want to sand to shape and might sand through , especially on corners. This can be done very quickly with cyano . Then plane and sand to shape. When happy with exterior cut from fuz and carve out inside . A dremel is very handy for this it can all be toughened up by appling some cyano or finishing epoxy before final sanding and finishing.

As far as i know it doesnt. In laymans terms for our model size a single bladed prop is the most efficient as used on speed models. The air in the arc has time to recover before the blade takes the next bite. The single blade is counter balanced by a wieght. Two bladed props are easier to balance and give good all round performance. I think in simple terms , air is a constant and on our sized models the more blades spining in an arc will disturb the air flow for the following blade causing poor thrust. With bigger props as per full size the air isnt disturbed as much due to bigger distance between blades and so a gain in thrust can be achieved. The huge multi bladed props as used on later spitfires and on Corsiars were used to tame and load the massiive engines. There will no doubt be someone on the forum who can explain the theory and in better detail . In practice three blade props dont produce the same thrust like a two blade prop on our models. So multi bladed props for display and two bladed for flying. Last year i was given a Durafly (or similar ) spitfire with a three bladed prop . While landing it nosed over breaking a blade off . No prps availabl locally so i fitted a two nlade and plane flew much better with more power. Then found a three bladed prop and fitted it to move it on. One last fly and it was , as before very tame.

Agreed Ron . Its a disgrace but doesnt little Johny have to be 18 ? The CAA I think are just empire building and making a case for increasing their remit. Those in power who know little or nothing about our hobby will of course hang on their every word while ignoring the Likes of experienced flyers , BMFA, LMA and any opinions from polls they set up to make it look like they are listening. The general public who buy toys for their children will just ignore it or just wont know about it anyway so its a piontless excercise thats being paid for with our flying tax (CAA annual fee) . I had a similar discussion a few years ago with a local Park Ranger about youngsters flying at a loca park . He told me that small children throwing a toy glider or small flying toy would be stopped at a local park! His words, although ive never heard of it actually bring enforced. If we had a minister in office who was a devout aeromodeller it would be a tottaly different storyI'm sure ; the same as lord Young ,now deceased, who pushed for our driving rights for heritage vehicles.

Hi Dave . Ask your mate if he can spray the cowl with single stage 2k paint. If painted with base and clear the base coat can be attacked on edges by glow fuel residue then bubbles and lifts slowly creeping underand lifting the fuel proof clearcoat. Ask me how I know? Water based base coats may be ok but polyester just melts with glowfuel (methanol) .

Time to eat my words I guess.😳 After looking at the Yamamoto add and comparing the pic its not the " plastic pig" Yamamoto as tailplane on that was not mounted on the bottom of fuz ! Oops ! So Superfly it is. The earlier mk1 yamamoto with a balsa fuz was a delight to fly as it was much lighter. Had one of those with an Enya 35 in it , great flying model. As Gary said I should know as finished his Superfly for him earlier this year. Note to self ...look more carefully before you leap. The superfly flys very well but the GF Yamamoto was just toooooo heavy and fast for a trainer as GF was just to thick and heavy.

Definately a Yamamoto Mk 2 by MFA in Folkstone Kent. Comonly refered to as the " plastic pig" as it was heavy and had to fly relatively fast compared to its contemparies. Simlar to the Ely superfly but a bit bigger . About 60 inch wing span ? It was my first trainer bought as a started / messed with kit from one of my sons mates. It flew ok on an Bluebird 46 also distributed by MFA .

Some heat shrink that fit over the plug serves as id from whatever colour you use and for ease of unpluging without putting all the strian on the wires. Use heat shrink with internal adhesive so as to adhere to the top of the plug. Similarly ordinary non adhesive heat shrink is ideal for locking extention leads together .