Engine Doctor

They are brilliant flyers. Built my early kit Messerschmitt a Cambria , and fitted a Enya 25. A brilliant model . Finished mine with doped on nylon then paint . Evehtually sold it on as too many models. Still have a Spitfire kit on the shelf ..... on to do list.

One tip when running in is to make sure there is plenty of oil in the cam box .

Makes perfect sense to me.

Try Model Fixings.

Unless you have a lathe they are difficult to make . Look on ebay etc. A carb fuel nipple would probably do the job , try Wheelspin models, Leeds model shop etc.

No problem with the sc or os 52 etc as no holes in the shim but good advice.

First of all remove liner and have your litho plate annealed. Place litho on a hard flat surface then put the top of the liner on the litho. Using a long sharp scribe anh holding the liner firmly in position scribe the litho around the inside and the outside of the liner. Now using a new sharp scalpel cut around the inner scribed line until you can break out the disc of ali . Now with a sharp pair of scissors cut around the outer scribed line and you have a shim. It might take a couple of goes but it isnt difficult. Annealing the litho is important to soften it . I have found that using a small blowlamp and heating the litho held in some pliers cautiously until it droops then dipping in cold water works for me.

You can make a head shim from annealed Litho plate . Cost is ten minutes of your time . A club mate isclikely to have a scrap of litho plate lying around.

Yes we have one in our club. Woke has taken over. A swastika and its use by the Nazis is a histotical fact. We must not change history less we forget and woke seems to want to forget.

assemble with Air tool oil for storage or if you going to use it soon then Two stroke will be fine Dont use 3 in1 its only ant good for door hinges and sets like varnish and Sae 30 is too heavy . The diagram shows two shims for use with different fuels . Two shims will make engine a little easier to tune with less risk of prop throwing . The PTFE plug that goes in the end of the gudgeon pin is vital to stop the gudgeon pin from scoring the cylinder wall.

Go over the floor or carpet with a strong magnet .whatever you dont let the vacuum loose ; or try shining a torch along the surface and it will make any small parts visible . Perkins should be able to supply a new one as SC engines are back in production. When removing them or fitting them put the head in a large plastic bag .

I would probably use as is as it doesnt look to bad , obviously having been stripped before. A decent degreaser mix works well in ultra sonic cleaners. Tesco kitchen or Mr Muscle degreaser suitably diluted work ok but check on ali first. Tip. To avoid using excessive amounts of cleaner or solvents in US cleaners. Find a glass container , jam jar etc with a screw on lid that your parts will fit into plade parts in jar and fover with chosen cleaner and screw on lid. Now place in US tank and fill tank to the level line with water. Often warm water will speed up cleaning. Using a sealed jar also allows the use of solvents that should never be used in the nain tank due to fire risk. Even so only ever use solvent in a jar in a safe , preferably outdoor place. I frequently used cellulose thinners as a cleaning agent for cleaning screws and small bits but always in a sealed jar. To restore scruffy engines to a " as new look" the castings need to be bead or vapour blasted. I use very fine glass beads for an excellent finish then a good clean in the US to get any beads out . But thats just my engine OCD kicking in. Occasionally you will find a shim in the head . These are often well stuck in and look like the face of the cyl head, but often found in the bottom of US tank after a clean,always worth a check as if left out you could have an engine that bite and throws props. No cap fitted in gudgeon pin fitting hole. If your going to all the trouble of a full strip and clean then its an ideal oppertunity of fitting a new set if bearing, dont forget the camshaft bearings. Good luck and keep engines alive

Well done Geoff. I only use FrSky rxs and module in my Futaba FF9 . It does everything I need .Use a blob of Evo stick or silicon at the base of the ariel for support. Ive done a few and no issues and use them in anything only needing 4 ch. Always do a thourough range check .

Best fuel proofer by far.

Paul You should never change a lifelong habit 🙂 its really annoying !😉