Engine Doctor

Mobiles instead of land lines are great when you live in a area with a useable signal. Try it in an area like ours where a mobile all but a paper weight until you get a mile or so out of the village. They are even rubbish when used on wifi. We even have our own new mast to improve signal erected 6 months ago and still waiting for a power and optic fibre connection before it can work .

If joints are tight /close fitting then cyano will be fine on its own . The joint will be stronger than the wood. Just my opinion having built models of all sizes using cyano . High stress areas would be better with other glues like PVA, epoxy etc with a slower cure and a chance to penetrate tge wood fibres.

Hi domsalvator and welcome to the addiction , sorry hobby of rc model flying . Recent price hikes might be an issue with your budget if thinking about a new model and radio gear. As already suggested look for a local club , go along and have a chat before buying anything. They may even have a club trainer you could have a go on and this often gives your instructor an insight into what model will be best for you and he can advise whats available. Club location and contact details can be found on the BMFA club finder site. A club will also advise what radio is most popular and this will help when it comes to set up or buddying Whatever you do dont take advice from a model shop sales assistant unless you know them personally. Many will sell you an inappropriate model. Look for a high wing type model but even these vary a lot in speed and performance . Advice from a experienced club instructor is worth a lot . Avoid cheap and cheaful set ups , often sold on line , at all cost as they are generally rubbish and a waste of money . Just my opinion but avoid these computer aided models with "Safe" etc as in my experience they become a hinderance rather than a help. A good secondhand trainer elec or IC is often a good choice and can often be picked up at bargain prices at club sales.. Good luck

Forward CG = model fly's badly . Rearward CG = model fly's once . Start safe and move it back to where your happy with it.

59 p is todays money 😉 I think the advert must be a later one post 73 . 59p would be around 11s 9d... i think. Now inflation would probably make that around £10 but other costs like rising balsa etc I reckon a similar kit of sticks would be nearer £30. £100 in 1970 wouldnow be worth £1515.65 according to online source. Probably correct , just think what sort of car you could have bought for £100 back in 1970 and whatyou buy now for £1500 ? In the late 60's I remember chatting in our fire station mess room with a old hand about our wages . We had just been paid having just had a 3 half crown pay rise( 7s6d) and my monthly take home pay was just over £40. The old hand said to me , Lad by the time you retire you will be taking home over £100 . Just shows we couldnt even imagine how things would change !

Loads about. If you havent entered any comps its a scam. Old addage , if it looks to good to be true it usually is. Also more phishing emails about . Beware !

The engine internals should be oiled but not "full" of oil as stated in OP . If too much oil is in the case this will be the cause of low rpm as engine just boggs down , Make sure that all the oilways that allow excess oil to be expelled through the breather nipple are clear . Being run inverted should not make any difference , Drain all excess oil and try again , This includes the rocker gear , this should be oiled but not have puddles of oil in the cover . Id also check valve timing as just one tooth out will cause a loss of performance .

Brown paper works very well over most solid surfaces like balsa sheet or foam. Kits from USA some years ago came with foam blanks for wings and Brown paper to cover them , dont know if UK kits did this . Last model I used brown paper on was a DB Hurricane built for a friend . Pic below . The stringered rear Fuselage was covered in Solartex and all sheeted parts were covered in Brown Paper . Putting on in panels that simulate the panels on the planes on the fuz adds detail . Its very strong . Its totally unsuitable for open structures , Also the PVA used should be good quality PVA . Dont bother with the "No Nonsense " stuff , guess how do I know ? The Uni-Bond is far superior . The brown paper I used was bought from the post office and had lines along it almost like a grain these line were placed along the span and the fuz . It does vary in quality so get the best you can . I found that giving the panel a thin coat of dope first raised the grain then after a light sand give the whole panel a light coat of thinned PVA . Paper was pasted with the thinned PVA and allowed to soak like wallpaper then applied over the panel rubbing down . It will shrink tight as it dries then trim and sand the edges . A final thinned coat of PVA allow to dry thoroughly and its ready for paint.

A neighbour was flying his drone from his garden and flying along the houses with camera pointing to the windows .Our local PCSO is a big lad ,the sun goes in when he stands in front of you, went round and had a quiet word. No flying since . Some drone flyers are still ignorant of the laws about flying, other choose to be ignorant and some are just arrogant and think the law doesnt apply to them. Its just the same with our flyers although FW or helicopters do require skill to fly whereas a drone can be flown by anyone with all the electronics doing the tricky stuff. It wont change any time soon. Do as MattyB says . In our society its the only option that is if the police have the manpower . Smashing joke by Jethro about police availability but not suitable for afamily forum

How about foam board available from craft stores ? Ok fo ribs and formers etc. Have you contacted SLEC for postal delivery of balsa ? Thell them you needs and application and they will supply appropriately grained wood .

Is it glow or electric powered ? If electric then take it along (or a small piece of iit ) to a B&Q or doit all store and they can scan it and match the colour. Probably far more paint than needed and a bit expensive . If its glow then easiest is to buy some Guild enamel in cub yellow and a tin of white as yellow often lightens as it ages and tint it . Again not cheap as paints prices like everything else have gone through the roof ! If as you say its only a small area match up some Humbrol enamel then when fully cured apply a thin coat of Guild clear . PS guild paints seam on the thick side and skin up quickly . Add a few drops of white spirit and it allows it to flow our better .

We will have to agree to dissagree on this one Jon my statement is not flat wrong , its my opinion as is yours . I woukd never consider using castor in a modern engine. Ive used Prosynth ,a lot in the past as have many club members and never had any issues with it. I have used SMC fuel for a long time now and Daves brew is very good . I started using SMC fuel purely because of price difference for anything with 10% and above Nitro and Dave would mix up whatever oil content you adked for. When SMC had a short hiatus due to change of owners I was thinking of going back to Prosynth as Westons are quite close to me. SMC are now back on the scene so will continue using their brew and their 15% oil is more than adequate for most / all modern engines. I have evaporated some Prosynth out and their does seem a healthy dose of oil left in the tray, not measured it or worked out percentage as better things to do.

Nothing wrong with Westons Prosynth . You will of course get those that say its the juice of the devil because Westons wont tell you what its oil content is . They are entitled to their view , its their loss as its a good clean running fuel . Just avoid any fuel that contains Castor oil when used in modern engines . I use SMC (Southern Model Craft) Fuel and they will now post it . The Laser Mix contains 15% synthetic oil and is fine for all modern engines .

That is available on Volvos , or was but had to be switched on in settings . Not a standard feature but available, had it on my V70 . A good aid and worth having as are parking sensors.

👍 Never tried that on canopies . Will give it a go on my next job, a re vamp and re cover of a Kyosho Majestic .