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Everything posted by Engine Doctor
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If electric scooters are using EC3 connectors is it a coincidence that many seem to catch fire while charging ? Always in the news . I wont use them as had one too many fall apart while connecting or disconnecting with possibily of a short. Changed to XT 30 , 60 or 90
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Have you looked at the Guild range ? Their range are fuel resistant and will stick to Oracover without affecting it as will Humbrol or any car paint finishes. If you need high fuel resistance / proof then you are a bit limited these days . Car paint factors can usually make you a 2k aerosol that once cured will be completely fuel proof. BUT it come with a warning as you can become sensitised by the Isocyanate it contains so personal protection is needed when using it. Oracover products might be expensive but are generally very good . Of course if your powering is electric then virtually any decent paint will do the job .
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How worthwhile is aileron differential?
Engine Doctor replied to Alistair Scolley's topic in All Things Model Flying
Many High wing type models with outboard inset ailerons can be difficult or not nice to fly without differential on ailerons or a rudder aileron (CAR) mix . The Luscombe Silvair being one of them. I had a 10 ft span version with a Moki 30cc power .It was a home built model that I purchased as a project from Avicraft many years ago and had been built and painted like the Luscombe that Ali had a share in. The model took off very gently in about 30 to 40 ft flying quite slowly . Time for a turn so fed in aileron when it dropped its tail and sort of went in the direction I wanted . I levelled it up and tried the rudder for the next turn . I gentle applied right rudder when it tucked its nose down as if doing a roll . I next tried simultaneously applying right rudder and left aileron and had a perfect turn . The rest of the flight was a delight and it looked brilliant . I later spoke to ALI about it and he told me that the full size was exactly the same . Very strange how designs that look very similar behave very differently to control inputs Ive always like he Luscombe Silvair and have built a 30 inch version with a DC Merlin for power but have never got round to testing it as I feel i might be a bitlike the OP's Polykarpov -
Very very slow earlier here in Kent today , still slow . Everything else working very fast . Just switched off and took 5 min ish to reload to edit this post . Keeps flashing up a fault page . To slow and frustrating to browse , will look again later.
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Yes unless its selected for aeromodelling it can be furniture grade , hard and very heavy. Often sold for building boats or railway layouts etc. Stick to specialists or buy from SLEC etc. Look out for bundles at swap meets etc . You can often pick up large bundles for little money .
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Helicopter help! - Old Model, parts needed!
Engine Doctor replied to FiddleSticks's topic in All Things Model Flying
Unfortunately GaryW is no longer with us . He died late last year . -
And yet Balsa is classed as a hard wood due to its cell structure ? Very confusing .
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Precedent T180
Engine Doctor replied to Alison Brown 1's topic in Vintage Kits, Semi-Kits and Plan Projects
Posted in error . -
If its a JR Tx then the internal battery will need replacing . This keeps memory alive.
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Air up spring down were a safer bet. Aim to get the system to hold good pressure for at least 20 to 30 min. Old "O" rings become hard so dont seal very well ; plus if they have become stuck bits can become detached when freeing them and they willnever seal. New rings are easily available on line , just need inside diameter and section diameter . As already said use silicon oil to lubricate all intrnal parts with seals .
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OS non ringed engines are now a lottery as to whether the chrome/ Nickel/ Nicosil or whatever they call it these days , stays on. Ive never had peeled chrome on SC's etc . The problem seamed to start as soon as production was moved from Japan to Tiawan. The OS 32 SX was badly affected and were repaired FOC for a couple of years by Ripmax here in the UK. I sent two back and they returned like new engines. One of these lasted about 6 flights before it went again. The other I still have unused in the box . The ASP , SC 32 of tge same period had piston liner sets that were a perfect match and never failed . Japan banned the plating process due to it being envitonmentally unfriendly ,just like the UK is doing with all its production processes kicking the problem down the road.
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Hand Launch EDF ,any tips on what to protect the underside ?
Engine Doctor replied to flying daddy's topic in Hints and Tips
I tried Foam Armour and was very dissapointed. It prevents foam from very light abrasion or discolouration from mud etc but IME no good for fast belly landings. Clear glass reinforced tape is much better. JMO -
HP 61 renovation and unobtainable 3.5mm thread problem solved.
Engine Doctor replied to Engine Doctor's topic in IC Engines
Thank you. -
HP 61 renovation and unobtainable 3.5mm thread problem solved.
Engine Doctor replied to Engine Doctor's topic in IC Engines
Yes the porting is very different and cylinder needs apropriate fins as cylider retaining flange is tottally different to the later version. Apart from the finish the cases , crankshaft and cyl head are interchangable . Doing it the way i did keeps the look as original as possible. Had I used M3 , M4 or UNC bolts it would look modified . -
HP 61 renovation and unobtainable 3.5mm thread problem solved.
Engine Doctor replied to Engine Doctor's topic in IC Engines
Yes I looked and the cheapest set for 3.5 was around £18 each. The M3 and 4 are around £7 each. £18 not a lot but it will, like yours sit on the shrlf and likely never be used again. -
HP 61 renovation and unobtainable 3.5mm thread problem solved.
Engine Doctor replied to Engine Doctor's topic in IC Engines
Hi RR 3.5 Helicoil sets while available are far more expensive than M3 or M4 and I probably wont use them again . Plus I already have the M3 set . Looked at their site and missed that after clickjng on wrong box , and again had a M3 helicoil set to hand, so all worked out ok. Just to clarify I chose the M3 after talking to and experienced engine builder supplier who had to retap threads in case for a very well known engine brand he manufactured some years ago after M3.5 bolts became very hard to find in the lengths require unless you paid to have them specially made at exorbatent cost . He found that running a M3 Helicoil tap into an M3 thread gives a excellent thread for Heli coil fitment. Thanks for the info -
I have just completed a renovation on a 1970 HP 61 . I had two of these engines one a 1970 model and the other a 1974> with the polished case. I was asked by a forum member if I had a piston liner for this engine and had forgotten I had two in the to-do box , I broke the shiny one for the bits required by our fellow member Who by the way gave a VERY generous donation to a charity for the parts . You know who you are and thank you again. The older engine was solid but I thought as it had Blue anodised fins looked more in keeping with engines of that period so decided to do it up. Sorry but never took pics during the strip and clen etc . Disassembled parts were cleaned inspected and only the bearings needed replacing ... or so I thought . Parts were bead blasted and cleaned in ultrasonic cleaner to remove any stray glass beads . All ready for assembly and new bearings fitted into the front housing, new gaskets prepared so assembly began . All went very well until the head bolts were inserted ! . One bolt thread had obviously been damaged in the past and although it felt tight when I loosened it there was no thread left to tighten it again. Head bolts were 35mm long and there was thread further down i the hole so if I could get some 40 bolts all would be fine . Then measured threads and found they are 3.5mm, a widely used size back in the 70's but times change and 3.5 bolts /screws are now only used in electrical stuff and not suitable for anything else . None available anywhere. Tapping out to 4mm would not look right as the cap heads are much bigger . After chatting with an experienced engine builder he said he had encountered the same problem. He tried and found that the 3.5 thread hole left ample metal left to fit a Helicoil insert . so four were fitted into the case . Now the 3mm cap screws looked too small and had loads of clearance in the head and fine . Its amazing how much difference 0.5 mm makes ! I decided to use the original head bolt and re-thread them to 3mm as this has ample strength and enough metal on bolts to cut a good clean thread. Pics of of finished engine below and pic of Crankcase before cleaning together with the engine I broke for parts . Before anyone asks , why didn't I use the case of the polished engine on the rebuild as all threads were good . I had posted it to our forum member to protect the piston liner in transit. Whish I'd checked first 😳 but all turned out fine .
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Fitting tiny E / Circlips???
Engine Doctor replied to Witterings's topic in General Electric Flight Chat
E clips or Circlips two different things . E clips can simply be slid in the slot then pushed on using some small pliers . A circlip will need opening and sliding along the shaft until it clips into the grove . 3mm will need some very small circlip pliers or a tapered shaft small enogh to wedge the clip open enough to get on the shaft then slide it along . -
If its isnt broke dont fix it . Its not a 3D or fast highly aerobatic model . Id possibly fit some 3001's or equivalent withh BB output or possibly some mg servos for protection agaist knocks when in transit. It seems common practice now to fit high powered servos when not needed . Dont forget higher powered models will draw a lot more current and need an upgraded battery as well. I sold my Pica Mustang last year . The buyer reported (text) back that it flew really well and was very responsive and was please with it. He then went on to say that he would be replacing the aileron servos ( Hitec 645 MG) as he thought they were inadequate and an accident waiting to happen ? His plane and his money . I can uderstand using these very high powered servos in a big 3D or jet models but to my mind its like building a Junior 60 and fitting expensive digital servos to potter around the sky. ATEOTD Its your model so do what makes you comfortable .
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I must be lucky as mine only increased by £16 up to £433. Still a big jump from a few years ago . Even at 72 I was only paying around £280 for a Jaguar XF 200 BHP estate Still same car and value is now much lower and they will undoubtedly write it off for a scratched bumper . For cover thats required by law its daylight robbery. When I think Ive had one small claim in over 50 years and that wasn't my fault it seems exorbitant . but we must remember that we are paying for all the accidents caused by low life that drive without insurance etc hence the difference in premiums from area to area . Another reason is it seems that car body shops that used to be everywhere are closing down as their rent , materials costs etc have risen dramatically as have other cost introduce by the powers that be. Whatever you do check any policy if you go for the cheapest as there are things they exclude, things that we used to take for granted with comprehensive cover, like a courtesy car , Windscreen repair or replacement, legal cover and personal injury cover etc.
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Never use a gasket on a exhaust. They always compress and let the screw loosen this causes aluminium filled oil to go everywhere. I found the best solution was to apply a thin layer of 30 min epoxy to the silencer 5min will do but 30 will give you plenty of time to do the job . Make sure the screws and the threads in silencer have been lightly oiled then fit together. screw up and clean off excess epoxy with meths as it squeezes out of the joint . Never leaks and doesn't come loose until you want it too. To disassemble remove screws and give silencer a sharp tap .
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Is it the Cambrian Kit ? I built one of those years ago . A brilliant little flyer but with our modern smaller lighter radio etc should be far better.
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The trouble with walkers is they are usually inquisitive . You start off a long way away from them and while your flying they or their dog , that should be on a lead come wandering over .
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Yes for diesels , well old ones anyway . Dont think id use Castor on a modern high performance diesel though .
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BMFA less than a £1 a week for £25 mil cover, personal accident cover , for any accident while engaged in hobby and a well proven cover that pays up when needed . Plus they are there to advise and fight our corner against big brother. You might find cheaper but you wont find better