Engine Doctor

Loose the canopy Dave and fit along the top , or fit inverted and get swan neck header pipe that bends around the nose wheel if you really dont like tail dragers. Personally I'd go for keeping plane as is and fit engine inverted wi a swan neck header pipe. Of course fitting a swan neck could alter the pipe configuation and transition on to the pipe. Nice retro looking model and they flew very well.

Sorry may not have been clear. Flammable solvent used in the US cleaner container is wasteful, open to air and a fire risk . Any minor spark from US cleaner or from static could ignite solvents used in the basin. Solvent used in a closed container like a jam jar with a screwed on lid uses far less solvent or cleaning agent and is safer as vapours cant escape . The Ultra Sonic waves travel through and clean just as well . For non flammable cleaning agents small open containers for smaller items are far more economical. PS . If using flammable solvents like cellulose thinners for cleaning dont use the heating function on the cleaner. You will find most fluids will heat up a little due to the energy being from the US cleaner. There is alway a risk when using flammable solvent but keeping the vapour confined in a sealed container greatly reduces any risk.

The jewellery type work ok but are not designed for slightly lager items. Suggest you buy a decent Vevor type with the capacity to hold a decent sealable container .For instance if you want to clean an oily item in a solvent then you need to be able to fit a container with a sealing lid into the US cleaner . Using solvent directly in the cleaner is a serious fire hazard. Put parts in a a glass or plastic jar cover with solvent /cleaner of choice then screw on lid on tightly. Place in the US cleaner and fill up with water . This saves solvent that can be reused if kept in the jar. You will have to filter it after a cleaning session .The Vevor US cleaners are good . I have a 1 or 1.5 ltr unit ideal for our engine bits , plus it has a built in heater that is very handy for certain cleaning jobs .

Some of the very early/first 120 fs had two pins screwed into the prop driver I believe, to prevent the prop from loosening. The downside was that if engine pre-ignited then damage to engine was more likely . If engine persists in throwing its prop try a second washer under the glowplug to lower the compression. If it helps but doesnt cure it then it may have a missing head shim. Its unlikely you will be able to buy one if its a pre surpass engine, but they are easy to make from anealed litho plate. I had an Enya 60 4c that was impossible to use due to prop throwing. A head shim totally cured it and I now have an Enya 120 4c waiting for the same treatment. Good luck keep trying.

Jon . Its worth keeping a can of ether if you run diesels to top up as it can evapourate quickly. Southern model can supply it at reasonable cost Your Dart does look very loose at the bottom of cylinder. Ideal fit is a good sliding fit up to the top of the exhaust port . Good luck and enjoy diesels and the " Oily hand society".

I did manage to find some 3/4 inch bar but was expensive and still a lot of waste when making small pistons. Old window sash weights were a source of cast iron but not that common now and being very old were stress relieved/ aged. A problem with machining any cast iron unless produced in quality bars is finding a slag bubble just when your getting near final cuts and having to start again ! I made a set of piston rings for a Tartan twin for a mate out of a window sash weight but took two goes to find some slag free iron.

You would have to either go to the shop and collect or arrange your own courier as he wont post it ? And Ive heard he wont supply model shops, is that true ? If the MSDS gives some indication of ingredients im surprised any enterprising individuals havent trued to replicate it ... or is it protected by copyright ?

Yes look up .Rapid Rc when they get back from Weston Park. Didnt realise Ripmax were now run by Amerang . 😊 Doesnt alter my opinion of their covering though.

Welcome to forum Carl.

👍😉

I have to agree with the points that Paul has made . Ripmax Aero film is/was inconsistent, its also translucent giving a poor look to models. I refuse to use it now but as Ripmax has gone perhaps it wont be available anyomore. It seem that it was intriduced as Ripmax was in final decline ? The Chinese covering that out LMS sells is farp superior and IMO just as good if not better than Oracover. Sticks down well , doesnt suffer wrinkling in sun and stays drum tight. Its also highly puncture resistant .

Little tip to secure snake outers. Wrap some car masking tape tightly around area where want to secure snake. A couple of turns is enough . Most glues will adhere to the tape locking the outer in place ensuring good control and never let go.. I adopted this technique years ago after the elevator outer snake bacome loose on a secondhand plane I bought and it went in as the elevator would just blow back.

Sounds about right . No pun intended

Even some of the commercial spinners can disintegrate at higher revs , especially the ones in day-glow colours . It might have been a dodgy batch but I had two disappear in flight a while ago , luckily not damaging the model .

Yes beware . Had that scam from another forum for some car wheels I have for sale. The thieves/scammers are everywhere . Beware.

Mode one shouldnt be an issue as the computer tx's sorts it out, so a mode 1 master tx will work with a mode 2 student tx. Provided of course they are the same make / compatible tx. We did this many years ago with FF8 and FF 9 tx's buddied with some of the basic tx's .

More and more getting into classic car shows, taking my Pet Jaguar.

An often forgotten model is the Japanese Zero . All of those ive flown over the years from kit built to foam have been very docile easy to fly models. Worth a look ?

Contact SC disributor in NZ would be my first port of call.

After a good wipe over with isopropyl or car body panel wipe to remove release agent most elapor or expanded polypropelene will take most paints, unlike expanded polystyrene that can melt. Have had very good succes with artists acrylic overcoated with water based varnish on both types of foam. On polypropelene called by various tade names ive used car acrylics , solvent based base coat and water based car base coat . All lasted well but noneo of the paints adhered well enough to use masking tape, even low tack would peel patches.

Not sure but Ex screws might be M2.5 . Contact Rapid RC he keeps many sizes in stock just check thread size in the silencer first , it cirtainly wont be M2 .

When phone interference hysteria was at its hieght observation of pilots clued you into the real problem . If a phone rang on a flightline almost every pilot would imediately be distracted by "is that my phone syndrome" then if thry crashed blame phone interference . We have become more used to using mobiles now but they still rule many peoples lives, look in a waiting room or any communal area. The interference was IMO mainly the interference with the pilots ability to concentrate on his model over the mobile in his pocket.

Be very careful of choice of epoxy. All epoxy adhesives are NOT equal. Some turn rubbery or never set correctly jn the first place. Careful mixing is very important as is keying /abrading the carbon as it will have release agent used in manufacture that needs removing. If you have a good fit of wire in the tube then cyano is far better as it sets hard and doesnt go soft; then bind the outside of tube with thread and coat again with cyano as it can split easily along its lenght loosing all its stiffnes. JMO but properly fitted snakes are far better for long runs . Properly anchored at both ends and supported half way they will perform well .

I have repaired a lot of models for clubmembers over the years and often find badly secured/ fitted hinges even furry type hinges which are very easy to fit but the glue just hasnt wicked in. The main cause is the use of too thick grade of cyano that wont wick into joint. Usually poundland glue or similar which is just too thick for our needs. Zap thin is the ideal glue for this For proper hinges or where the slot is too wide i now use Gorilla foaming glue. It allows plenty of time to fit and align before it foams up filling the joint . Only use a thin smear of glue and dampen the slot, and aply some oil the the hinge pivot. Use a lenght of masking tape to hold surface in position as expanding foam can push hinges out .Allow to cure fully then pick off the expanded foam . You wont get them out in a hurry but can be cut out with a sharp scalpel if needed.

A recent post of the same problem on here with a popular radio . I dont know if he found out the cause ?