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Engine Doctor

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Everything posted by Engine Doctor

  1. Please dont let this degrade into argument like the EV debate. What do you all think of so called modern driving aids ? Are they a benefit or do they dumb down your driving skills ? My wife recently bought a new car . She ordered all the add ons that she wanted but there are so many so called driving aids that have been forced upon us and we dont have a choice . Some of the "aids" are just annoying but some in my view are dangerous. Annoying = Speed warnings bell/alarm , lane assist , stop start an anoyance when parking or manouvering and now since a few days ago ( fortunately not on her car ) auto speed limiters. Dangerous= Collision Avoidance and Oversensetive auto braking . The collision avoidance initially looks a good idea however while I was driving the car it picked up a high kerb on my left and powerfully jerked the steering to the right almost into the path of an oncoming car ! Fortunately I was able to hold my course with out collision bur it was close. Auto braking. Im sure we have all experienced the driver who puts brakes on for no apparent reason but while driving on motorway or dual carriageways the inbuilt radar picks up cars some distance ahead and really applies the brakes ! Ok some say, but we have also all experienced the tail gaters who could back end you in this scenario . Yes these aids can be temporarily turned off until the next time you start the car but going through what feels like a pre flight check for Jumbo jet becomes a little annoying. What do you all think of these " safety aids" good ideas or nany state interference that are stripping away our driving skills ? Ive asked if when it goes in for its first service if these can be turned off/ dissabled. Usually just a press of a button while pluged into the appropriate diagnostic unit. No answer as yet and i think it will be a No.
  2. If you replace any of the back plate screws check the thread size as OS used a 2.6 mm thread . A 2.5 feels like a lose fit then strips or damages the thread if screwed in too far . 2.6 mm can be found on line . Before wasting time on carb check the plating on the cylinder walls . Remove head and any patches of what looks like brass will show up. .
  3. Be careful what paint you use as it can de-nature the plastic and make it brittle like an egg shell . Ask me how I know ! Model car shell paint is probably safe to use .
  4. Just buy a proper one with the built in speed control . By the time you mess about with a rheostat etc it will probably cost you just as much and will still be a toy compared to a decent mains unit. Loads online from about £20 . The mains models have much more torque and usually come with a selection of tools . Black and Decker used to make a good one but not sure if still available . I have a Minicraft Jigsaw , its very basic but handy for cutting out thin ply formers but still low power as its 12 v and will only cut at a snails pace
  5. Excellent build 👍 but I hate how some people can be so clean and tidy , No finger marks or blood from cuts on the wood and all tools perfectly placed !!! Only joking and well done on on an excellent build blog and a tidy workshop . I'll watch the progress.
  6. Hi Cuban 8. Could it be that the mounting is at fault and not allowing the switch to travel to the on position fully ? Often found on precut switch mounts . A little trim with a scalpel often gets it working fine. Just noticed its one of those switches with a built in charge socket . I bought some from HK some years ago and it was wired wrong and cost me a very expensive , at the time RX. Bin it and use it for setting up on the bench.
  7. Yes Tim but with respect we are all or should be allowed our point of view.
  8. Only the better quality programable ESC will do that. Most of the supplied in model a d cheaper plug and play ESC will run until battery is damaged. Also on programable ESC's only start a flight on on a fully charged battery as ESC wil think a partly used battery is fuĺy charged and allow it to be discharged to a lower voltage resulting in cell damage. I generally run cheaper plug and play ESC's and listen to the powerfade on a fly by. If motor revs an then sags its time to land and I usallly end up with between 20 a 25 % left in battery. This only seems to work or be more noticeable on higher kv motors and for softer motors just set a timer be more concious of flight times.
  9. COMMENT REMOVED Or am I not allowed to say that ?
  10. Yes many so called " respected make " replacement items are just junk. So much rubbish being sold on ebay any in some cases by the big distributors. Always take out of packet at point of purchase if possible and if its rubbish refuse to buy it. If seller gets a bit upset then its their fault for selling rubbish. If bought on ebay get a refund. Ebay are still allowing dangerous fake Futaba servos to be sold ! When buying on ebay look at sellers other items . It a good indication of the type of business they run. By comparrison in many cases Dell Boy was a trust worthy trader 🤥
  11. Cant help with where or how it was bought as parents long gone.
  12. Thats always a good test . I'm not sure if it was the Wasp or the Bantam that had a ball jointLittle end like the Cox engines and cant be removed or set like a normal con rod Heat will be your friend to remove the cylinder from the crank case but be very careful how you grip the cylinder. Cox had a spanner that fitted across the exhaust ports but not sure about the Wasp. Not worked on one for years now.
  13. Yes the Mk1 did have an "0" ring but the Mk11 had a lapped CP . Visual difference was Mk11 had a deeper cyl head. Re the 049 I belive they had a ball socket type little end like the cox . Check it free to rotate and that the con rod is not bent. Anything bent will cause a tight spot. Strip off cylinder and check if tight spot goes. If it does then crankshaft to case is ok but check crank pin. If anyone has used a starter then anything could be bent. Often a strip and a good clean can sort this as any castor varnish will grab and cause a tight spot. If you get it free enough to run buy some earplugs before starting...belive me you will need them and use a high nitro fuel. Let us know what you find The Wasp when tuned and fitted with a tuned pipe exhaust was recorded at reving to a staggering for an 049 of the time 24 k rpm As far as im aware the Frog was just a rebadged Wasp .
  14. I think those numbers were put on by the distributors. I have many engines from that era with those numbers etched/ engraved on.
  15. Just read the DC story/ history on Adrians Engines and even on there they say the QS was introduced in 1959 ? But I know I had one in 58 ? I also remember taking it off as it vibrated do much it chewed up the prop.
  16. I remember I was still at primary school when I was given the merlin and that dates it to 1958 at the latest. So they must have been out there prior to 59 . By 59 I had started secondary school and had moved onto other water cooled diesels as boats were easier to use in SW London
  17. Everything is repairable .... remember Triggers broom ? 17 heads and 14 handles or somthing like that. Make a new front end and cut and shut the fuz. Just beware of the temptation to patch it up adding lots of weight , often see on models for sale at swapmeets.
  18. My parents bought me a DC Super Merlin with quick start which came in the distinctive triangular box around 1957/58 so quite early on in that range of DC engines.
  19. Very difficult to win arguments about pro's and Con's of EV's as already pointed out stats can be made to fit whatever your agenda. I did however meet a gent this week while away on a break who has a Jaguar E pace. He loves the car ....but, he has range anxiety whenever he travels any distance. He regularly travels from kent to Southampton has to stop for a charge at least once and pay exorbitant price for the privelidge ! Possibly why EV sales have stalled around the world.. or is that all lies ? Sort the range , battery life and safety and infrastructure and pricing then ill be convinced.
  20. I set most model fs engines by feel and never use a feeler gauge. If anything I set them a touch on the loose side and find engines rev more freely than if set tight. With Saito engines they sound awful when turned over by hand even if set exactly at manufacturers spec and thats perfectly normal , nothing to worry about. It caused by backlash between crank and cam gear ad all sounds normal when running . We had a Saito 80 at the field last week and couldnt get a reliable idle. I opened the ntappets slightly and viola smooth reliable idle. When I say slightly I mean SLIGHTLY and at on tdc compression you shoukd just be able to feel/ see the tappet clerance. If your not sure then use feelers but dont forget our engines have very soft springs and any resistance felt on a feeler gauge can mean the valve is off its seat and gap is too tight. If using feelers be careful . With petrol fourstrokes this is even more important as the hotter gases from petrol can damage valves and seats very quickly. Re set tappets after about an hours running from new and they should be fine . Also dont forget oil the rockers and valve stems / springs occasionally on OS, ASP,SC etc as they have no oil flow/ replacement in normal use and can go rusty if left , a common cause of broken valve springs.
  21. 3300 mah will be fine . I built a Wot4 for a club mate . He supplied the ESC motor and 3300 mah 4s battery. I modified the fuz so battery hatch was behind the U/C mounting plate and battery slid up and forward into what was the tank bay to obtain a correct CG . Flew perfectly well giving decent flight times with loads of power. Using the throttle as an on / off switch is why many get short flights. Too big a battery give a little longer flights but is generally counter productive making the model sluggish or hard to ballance
  22. Yes . They were I believe made as a side line , a bit like lasers and the company moved onto other things .
  23. Marvin and the Chipmonks .... wow your in a serious way 😃 Its what makes us tick Don .... or tock depending what takes your fancy . Strangely the crankcase is missing from those parts advertised .
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