Edgeflyer

Do those alignment plates in the nose block and cowl stay in place?

Ah right. Good info thanks

Whose tried this and know if it's worthwhile?

https://www.freeflightsupplies.net/index.php/products/lightweight-covering-materials Mike Woodhouse supplies all sorts. Still lists lightspan and various modern materials

I really appreciate this build log as it's helping me avoid problems as I'm following on with my build. It's definitely not a kit for beginners without building experience. But the technology is fascinating. I still think the early aero modellers were brilliant in design given what was available then.

Tim I'm interested in the 1941 version and have the plans and started on my boom rolling. I noticed that the tapered blank at 3 inch max width can't fit around the keel as shown as the latter is 1 inch max width which is similar to the finished size of the tube at F4. Could you confirm that your boom has a circular or oval cross section and did you increase the size of the second blank lamination to allow it to roll round the outside of the first blank. Thanks Phil

I'm working on mine and there's confusion about how far the boom goes into the pod . It certainly looks like it should go into F1 which has a circular hole to receive it. However the instructions suggest the latest boom is 1.5 inches short of F1 so it only goes through F2 and doesn't reach F1. Looks a much weaker joint this way

Yes 160 fetched on eBay. Less fees

Sorry noone wanted it at that price even though on eBay they are much more

Keep in mind that it's very easy to remove epoxy stains before it's set using some methylated spirit

Could anyone please supply details about their old battery backer module that facilitatedredundancy Rx batteries?

I also have a soft spot for mine. Bought used for near nothing, oil soaked and thick Solartex covering. It flew so well I decided to restore and electrify it. 3 channel control is fine. Hovers into a good head wind and lands at near zero ground speed. No problem with take off even with it's tiny rudder. Also love my old Southerner 60 and I have a Buccaneer and KK Falcon being restored.

Pm sent

Here is a used and ready setup to fly Blade 130X micro Heli. Additionally there is a carbon framed used Heli with enough parts, mainly new and unopened to build a complete second Heli. Includes everything in the photos. Also 2 brand new brushless 130x motors which are not pictured. There is too much to list exclusively so see pictures and ask if you are looking specifically for any parts. Amongst other things this collection includes A new speed fuselage A slightly used but excellent fibreglass canopy. Two more slightly used but excellent canopies. Two new tail case sets. Two new main blade sets. A new tail shaft set. Two new hardened flanged tail shaft bearings. A new replacement 2.9g linear servo. 2 sets of o rings. A used but serviceable tail shat with tail blades and new gears. A used but good tail torque tube and tail servo link rod. The screws a d cyclic servos links are there to rebuild the carbon framed version. 3 lipos that look good to go and charge up and spin up well but not guaranteed This collection was amassed to make 2 flyable helis. The first is finished from it's full check /service/build and is ready to fly but has only been hoovered indoors to test. The second is still in parts and can either be finished or used to keep the first flying. The project is now going no further hence the sale . This will be a bargain for someone experienced or keen to experiment with 3d micro helicopters.

Ok thanks all. In the event I decided to see how feasible it would be to remove the old blind nuts then install a new ply plate under the old one into which I could put m5 or M6 nuts. So, what I found was, as expected, it is not too difficult to dismantle anything that's been epoxied using heat then pressure/prising. This was how I dismantled much of the oil soaked nose in the first place. First I tried inserting a metal bolt and heating that with a hot air gun at 150 Deg c. No joy! Secondly I got my old Antex soldering iron that I keep for melting foam. With no tip I could insert this into the nut and after about 30 seconds start pressing on the edge of the nut from above. Soon it popped out cleanly. So now I have made a new plate and clamped the wing in place to use a 3mm drill bit to mark the position and angle of the new nuts in the tacked in place plate posioned below the original. Removing the new plate then drilling out to 4mm then I was able to check with spare M4 nylon bolts that the new plate works (just screwing the bolts through the old holes and into tight hole in the new ply). This worked well. Now when the new nuts and bolts arrive I'll reassemble with new epoxy. Job done hopefully!