Nigel Heather

Can imagine how a bigger saw handles thicker wood better, but how does it deal with smaller stuff and balsa?

I have some Gorilla glue to, bought for DIY rather than modelling, it is brown but not sure it is the specific one you mean. It is quite runny and expands when it cures - is that the one you mean.

Just watched a YouTube video of the Proxxon KS 230, little underwhelmed to be honest.

Building a battery tray for my Max Flight Ruckus which involves gluing some light ply to the foam - I have UHU POR and two part epoxy - would one be more suitable than the other?

I stand corrected about the Proxxon - still can't comment on how good it is but it does have a toothed belt, and the Magicrose maybe a clone.

From my research I’m not convinced the Proxxon is very different to the Chinese no-name. Seen videos of several models showing the inner workings and they are all similar, a motor driving a belt to the saw. This belt means that they can skip on the protection circuitry because when the torque required is too much the belt slips. Amazon reviews have videos of the Proxxon and the Chinese no-names struggling with thicker materials - in the videos you can see the blade stop but hear the motor still spinning - so the belt must be slipping. The Proxxon has a built in power supply so can be run direct from the mains - this makes the Proxxon wider, but the saw and bed look identical to the no-name models. In fact, Amazon sell the Magicrose Electrical Mini Bench that looks identical to the Proxxon but selling for £60.

Has anyone tried a mini table saw. I’ve seen 12V ones on Amazon and eBay for around the £50-60 mark, lots of different makes but clearly all no-name Far-East stuff, and very similar, probably all the same but with different cosmetic styling. Reviews are so mixed it is difficult to tell whether they are great or rubbish. At that price it is very attractive but I wouldn’t mind paying a little more for a more reputable product. But every time I search all I find is these same Far East products or for bigger ones for doing full size woodworking.

This is what mine looked like to. Andy got the BMFA admins to correct it. I assume that there was a glitch when I renewed and the database didn’t get correctly updated - but the admins were able to rectify it quickly.

I’ve never managed to solve tip clogging, no matter how careful I have been. Best results I’ve found is to stand the bottle upright after use, let the glue settle for a while and then gently squeeze so that it blows air (and presumably, tiny bits of CA), then wipe the spout and put the top on. By no means perfect, but I find that I have a better chance of finding the spout unclogged on next use. But it is not a miracle cure, you will also find the tip clogs on occasions and then it I out with the needed.

Thanks for the ToolStation recommendation - I will check that out. Just had a look, they do two viscosities 20g Medium - £2.08 20g Thick - £2.58 50g Medium - £3.88 50g Thick - £4.88 This is where I usually get drawn into buying the bigger bottles, but from my personal experiences I’m going to stick to the small bottles. They don’t do thin or wicking versions but something I have read, but never tried, is that you can thin CA with acetone or cellulose thinners. Not sure I would risk that on an important airframe but if I wanted a small amount of fast setting thin CA on something not too critical I’d be prepared to experiment.

After years of thinking I was buying the best then having to replace it when more than half full I've finally got fed up of paying big bucks for Zap. Just wondering what you guys recommend - I think the key for me is to buy smaller bottles as I don't use that much. Cheers, Nigel

I have both a specific model gun and a heat stripping gun. I actually got the model one first and then the paint stripping one later when I needed to, errr, strip paint. Personally, although the paint stripping one would probably do the job I prefer the model one because it is smaller and lighter - in fact if it broke I would probably replace it rather than use the paint stripper.

I can confirm that - all displaying correctly now.

There is something wrong with your emails. I sent on Thursday 25th Jan at 18:50 - you say that has never been received I sent on Thursday 25th Jan at 22:36 - you say that went into your SPAM folder I sent the requested screenshot on 27th Jan at 09:26 - you say that you haven't received that Sounds like you have got some systems issues, databases not being updated and emails going missing. Since your email system is clearly broken, here is the screenshot Normally I would see details of the registration such as the expiry date. But the portal is not populated which makes it look like I am not registered with the CAA. I know I am, it just isn't being displayed on the BMFA Portal. Cheers, Nigel

Thanks - I have seen your response and sent the screenshot you requested - BTW my first contact was on Thursday at 18:50 over a day earlier than you say.