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Nigel Heather

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Nigel Heather last won the day on February 4 2023

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  1. You might have missed out as the offer was time limited but if you bought 9.5 or 9.5S you could get a free upgrade to 10 or Evolution. I bought 9.5S and now have Evolution. Likewise fir the OP - if you bought 10 you might be able to get a free upgrade to Evolution, maybe even the next version when it releases. They seem to let you do two versions - so I bought 9.5S, so got 10 and the Evolution as free upgrades. But they don't publicise this very well.
  2. Out of interest how do you manage to fly pinch without a strap or a tray. When I try that I find that I am having to hold the transmitter really awkwardly, basically pushing my palms into the side of the transmitter. The reason I was thinking of a tray is that if I move to a pinch or a hybrid thumb/pinch how do I support the weight of the transmitter?
  3. Couple of reason why I am thinking of a tray. Just moved to a different transmitter which is heavy than my old one - as I said, I support the transmitter in my hands rather than let the strap take the weight - besides neither my old nor my new transmitter balance properly on the strap - I have a balance bar for my new transmitter but rather annoyingly it obscures the power button somewhat. At my age, I've noticed I get a slight shake in my left hand when I am holding something, I have seen a neurologist who has ruled out anything serious and said that it is just a slight degeneration that is fairly common at my age. Also, been experimenting with a hybrid style on the simulator - thumb on top and forefinger on the front - I do feel that my controls are a little more controlled and precise but I wouldn't be able to do that while holding the transmitter - so I'd either need the strap or a tray support the transmitter.
  4. I've always flown using a strap on my transmitter and thumbs on the sticks. I've heard some say that people fly 'thumbs' because they have grown up with XBox and Playstation controllers but that doesn't explain why they do it - I was thumbs on long before that type of games controllers existed. As for the strap, it is more a safety and convenience feature, I support the transmitter in my hands with the trap slightly loose. For some while I've toyed with the idea of switching from 'thumbs' to 'pinch', most of those in my helicopter community have recommended that - I appreciate that there are plenty of exceptions but it does seem that 'pinch' is the preferred method, especially in the helicopter community. So I have two questions: swapping from thumbs to pinch a sensible/realistic thing to do after so long? When I have tried it I've not felt comfortable but I know any any change feels uncomfortable at first and takes time - but how long? what are your thoughts on trays - for 'pinch' but also for 'thumbs' The reason I'm thinking this way is that I'm increasingly finding that my control inputs are clumsy, not precise, and that supporting the weight of the transmitter and operating the sticks is beginning to feel a little uncomfortable. So interesting in your thoughts on changing stick style and transmitter trays.
  5. With my experience with MDF I found that HSS drill bits worked faster and cleaner than the brad point wood drill bits. For boring a recess for the T-Nuts I actually found spade bits worked better than Forstner bits, though neither were that good. Remember, this is with MDF - with proper wood or chipboard it might be a different story. Cheers, Nigel
  6. Tried those - I have now replaced them with the non-flanged type that I have inserted from underneath. The flanged ones looked good in principle but need to be countersunk - and I found that countersinking MDF made for an untidy finish. Also, the countersink bit (certainly the ones I have) would tear up the vinyl sticker.
  7. Yes this is true, though I am less bothered about tear out on the back. But I'm more concerned about tear out on entry. I have reduced this by drilling a hole in a piece of aluminium sheet and hold this down flat as I drill through it.
  8. Are you going with MDF or Chipboard for your board. I went with MDF and wish I hadn't as the drill holes are not as tidy (because the surface tears) and it blunts drill bits much more quickly. As for using a spade or forster bit on MDF, this gets very untidy and blunts expensive bits very quickly - the tidiness is not such an issue as it will be underneath, out of site.
  9. After posting I noticed the banner showing the free gift is the BBMF Profile - that doesn't interest me enough to subscribe but will keep an eye out for when the offer changes.
  10. The one I bought about 30 years ago - no fancy digital controls but it works fine.
  11. One of the things that would be the free gift hen taking out a full year subscription. Trouble is, it is difficult to tell what the current offer is, it’s not like I can look at the magazine on the shelf in WH Smiths because they are usually sealed in a plastic bag. I even asked the question on the dedicated RCME magazine forum back in October but never got a response. So without knowing what the deal is I won’t subscribe.
  12. Thanks for the replies - good news and bad news. Good that I know the rules - so not going senile just yet. Bad, but expected, that FPV is pretty much off the table for me - as I said, I'm often at the field on my own and when I'm not I would not feel comfortable asking people to spot for me - appreciate that is my hang-up, that other club members would be more than happy to help, but that is the way I am.
  13. A few years ago, I watched some FPV freestyle, and I was intrigued enough to start looking at building my own, I wanted to go DIY, and knew I wanted freestyle rather than racing or filming, and I came close to buying. But then the Gatwick incident happened, we got the drone laws, then the pandemic and my ideas got shelved. Now, years later, from time to time I start looking into again, it is pretty much the same other than there is now the option of analogue vs digital video to consider. But the one biggest obstacle is that I don’t understand how you can fly FPV under the drone laws. My understanding is that you must maintain line of sight with the aircraft at all times, that means you must have a spotter who is taking responsibility and that you must not fly behind anything other than momentarily. Thinking of how I fly fixed wing (non-FPV) at my flying site, it is quite common that I am the only one there, so I couldn’t fly FPV on those occasions. And even when there are others around I am not the sort of person to impose, asking one of them to watch my flying and effectively take responsibility for it. This is a big obstacle for me and wondering how others cope with it or whether I have mis-interpreted the rules.
  14. Hi, Screwfix prices for M6 are excellent, unfortunately that is as small as they go, they don’t do M5. Since I bought the SLEC kit I feel that I should stick with M5 otherwise it would mean replacing the screws, the washers and maybe even the brackets (if the slots can’t be filed out) - all I would be left with is the sticker. But I can get M5 nut inserts on eBay, slightly more expensive though. Question though, did you put the nut inserts with the flange on the top (sticker side) or on the bottom. Usually T-Nuts are fitted on the reverse and the nut inserts on the front? Also, what ‘wood’ did you use. I have 18mm MDF and want to be sure that the nut insert won’t blow or distort the MDF as it is screwed in.
  15. Just had a look at the SLEC website and the photo shows two screws per bracket but certain rows left undrilled. So maybe just copy that.
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