Andy-H

Thanks again.

Thanks Leccy, that’s very helpful. TBH, I’m only 6 months into my 3d journey and thus far have only been using PLA and designing on Tinkercad. I’ll include some PETG in the next batch of filament I buy and have a go at printing a spinner in the manner you’ve suggested and see how it comes out. Current requirement is only for a sports model, though, so no big deal if I use a commercial unit.

Thanks - I think that tells me all I need to know ! I’ll stick with commercial spinners.

I rather like the idea of the pointy spinners that are a bit longer than those generally available so wondered about making my own. Is there anything I ought to be aware of when creating a bespoke spinner on a 3d printer ? Any words of wisdom (or caution) would be much appreciated. Many thanks.

Many thanks both. I’ve also found I already have an engine mount that fits as well as a fuel tank, both unused so looks like it’s all systems go !

Could I ask, by way of a sense-check, would an OS 48 four stroke be a reasonable fit in a UNO Wot ? A 40fs might be preferable but I don’t have one of those, whereas I do have a 48fs ! My old trusty UNO Wot originally had a 25FP years ago, then I converted it electric and I’m now thinking it might be fun to give it a new lease of life with a four stroke. Many thanks.

TBH, if you watch the SpektrumRC YouTube videos on setting up AS3X, you’ll see the various orientation options available. IIRC, the main caveat seems to be that it won’t work if the Rx is mounted across the fuselage.

Looking at a Wots Wot I’m building, which I believe shares the same firewall dimensions, the indent is 46/47mm from the top of the ply facing, and central on the horizontal plane.

If you take a close look at the firewall, it usually has a 1/16” ply facing which, if fitted the right way round, has a small indent in the middle, indicating the motor datum line.

And Happy Birthday from me too !

The covered airframe weighs 1.29kg, excluding any radio gear. In fairness, I covered it in solartex when originally I built it, . If it flys well, I might consider recovering with a lighter finish, but let’s see it back in the air first. Power setup recommended up as mentioned earlier.

Many thanks for the advice. I’ll perhaps start at 5’ and see how that works. I bought myself a 3d printer a couple of months ago, so I’ll see if I can print myself a replaceable motor mount to give the flexibility of printing others with a bit less or a bit more downthrust, depending on how it goes. It’ll be great to see it fly if this idea works. Good idea about mixing in elevator trim with the throttle - I’ve only just started playing around with mixing so will look that up. Rog, power setup recommended was a 3541-810 brushless motor with a 50A ESC, 12x8 folding prop and a 3S 2200 lipo. Thanks again. Andy

That’s in line with my initial thoughts, but then I noticed quite a few electric glider plans note a certain amount of downthrust. I just wondered why.

Some 40 years ago, I built a Miri 120 glider which apart from a couple of initial flights has sat in the loft ever since. I’d like to get it flying again. George at 4-Max has advised on an electric conversion setup, for self-launching, but I’m wondering about how much downthrust to use for the motor installation. With the tail plane and rear boom set broadly level, the main wing seems to have around 3’ positive incidence. I was thinking of something around 7’ downthrust and 3’ right thrust, based on looking at a few electric glider plans on Outerzone. Does that sound about right ? can’t imagine it’s hugely critical as it’s only for self-launching, but would be good to have some experienced advice before I start. Many thanks.

Just testing …..