David Davis

You have me there Hunter! The red and yellow model is the only one I didn't build so I can't answer your question! I bought it off a bloke in Wolverhampton. If you look closely you'll see that the wing has ailerons. What I do know about the model is that it is a Penn Models Super 60 built to order. An ARTF before ARTFs were thought of if you like! AFAIK they were all finished with Cub Yellow Solartex fuselages and red wings.

I've started the construction of a new wing for my Ukrainian Baron using carbon fibre tow under both of the 1/4" (6mm sq) balsa spars, depron wing ribs and a carbon fibre tube leading edge. This year I have built the wing over a Super 60 plan using that model's rib spacing. Still a lot to do of course.

Best of luck Matty.

I've had three Super 60s, built two and bought the other. All three had balsa spars. These proved adequate for training and sports flying. However, if you intend to fit an engine bigger than say a 40, Ben Buckle recommends a 35 as a maximum size engine, then perhaps using spruce spars would be appropriate.

Each to his own. My first model aircraft were covered in doped tissue over sixty years ago. I distinctly remember having to repair the covering after virtually every (free flight) flying session. At 76, life is too short for that game of soldiers so I've covered my Uncle Ivor's 76 year-old Outlaw in doculam and have attached tissue over the top using water based matt varish which I bought at a builders' merchants. You have more time to ease out any wrinkles using this stuff than you have with dope.

Laser low oil in my modern Lasers.

I have started the construction of the new wing for my UKrainian Baron using depron for the wing ribs. I did something similat last year when I built a new wing for my other Baron. With that wing I used moderately hard balsa for both the root rib and the tip rib but is that necessary or even advisable? Pictures of the completed wing and the wing under construction below.

If you're a confirmed Futaba man Hunter stick with what you know. I have had very good service from Hitec and Savox servos.

I've had three Super 60s, two i/c and one electric. You don't need anything more fancy than Hitec HS311 standard servos at about £14 each. 4.8 or 6volt rx battery will be fine. Don't over-power it. A 40 four-stroke is plenty.

I was thinking more along the lines of a 3000-4000 3S LiPo.

I must agree with Christopher Wolfe and question the use of rear mounted servos in a model with such a short nose as the Junior 60. I have recently completed the build of a Galaxy Models "Mystic." This is a large sports-aerobatic model fitted in my case with a Laser 155 engine. I assumed that by having an oversized fourstroke in the nose that I could easily fit two standard size servos to the rear and still achieve the correct c of g. Initial assembly showed that the model was tail heavy so I moved the servos to a more conventional position and all was well. Bear in mind that the Mystic does not have a short nose. As I've said above, I plan to build Junior 60 over the next three months, cover it in tissue over doculam and power it by an OS 15. This will be my third Junior 60 and I intend to build it as light as possible. I have some small servos set aside for the project but may well use standard servos as far forward as possible given the need for nose weight on the Junior 60. 911 if I were to build an electric powered Junior 60, I would mount the LiPo vertically behind the F2 former and build an access hatch into the underside.

Happy New Year everybody and thank you for the advice Don. As things stand I have one Baron ready to fly and another which needs a new wing. Watch this space. The competition will take place on 21st June this year at Ste Marie d'Alloix between Chambery and Grenoble. I have already registered my interest. If anyone else wants to enter the competition you may apply here: https://saffiotipatrick.wixsite.com/vl38/les-barons. Click on "Inscriptions." English residents may stumble at the bit which asks for your FFAM (Federation Francaise d'Aeromodellisme) number. If you find that it's a problem, please let me know and I'll have a word with the organisers. If you need me to translate the rules, please let me know.

Merry Christmas to one and all!

Don, what you say is quite correct but I only plan to build a new wing for the Ukrainian Baron, the fuselage and tail surfaces are sound. The British Baron is in serviceable condition, the idea is to get the other one into flying condition as a spare in case I crash one in practice. I do not have the time to build another Baron fuselage because I have too many other model aeroplane commitments.

The original wing is unnecessarily complicated, see the pictures below. My version is lighter but stronger. Having said that, I think I've put the carbon fibre tow on the wrong side of the spar, it should have been on the underside. Maybe that's why the wing appears to flex in high speed flight! The leading edge of Bertie's 2024 wing is a fibre glass tube. Boris's new wing will be the same.