david james 1

Sorry didn’t notice that the *** predictive texting had translated nitro into nitrogen!

I have got some zero nitrogen bought for my Laser. Perhaps I should try that or even 50/50 to reduce the nitrogen to 5%.

It’s a Master Airscrew 16x6 on Southern Modelcraft 10% nitro synthetic. it does have a serrated prop driver but probably not to the degree shown. over rich could be contributing. Fuel tends to drip out of the carb when refueling- I might try using a clamp on the pipe to the carb when doing so.

I am trying it resurrect an old WW1 model ,and it’s equally old OS 120 FS. the engine starts easily and I have had it running quite well but it frequently seems to backfire(I assume) and loosen the prop. I am using a Radioactive type spinner with the plastic between the front of the prop and the engine washer. Using the aluminum type with its backing plate behind the prop seems to make things worse. I am using the double locking type nuts and do them up as tightly as I dare. Incidentally the engine is mounted upside down ,if that makes any difference! Any help would be appreciated.

Unfortunately I don’t have the kit to make an insert like that. However I have done the next best thing. I found some two thou shim, cut a strip, wrapped it round the manifold and screwed it in. It seems to be holding on the remains of the thread but time will tell! I found a YouTube video showing dismantling this engine and it suggested the use of heat. I got my hot air gun out and freed those pins quite easily

A friend has given me two ancient examples of this motor. The better one has freed up easily and I have actually got it running. Unfortunately the thread for the exhaust manifold is almost completely stripped and I can’t get it to hold in place. Thus I want to change the head to the one from the other engine. As far as I can make out, the rockers are on a separate casting which has to be removed to give access to the head bolts. To do this the actual rockers have to be removed by taking out their pivot pins. These seem to be held in place by a grub screw which you can see next to the hole for the inner cover securing bolt i have removed one of these but can’t seem to drift out the pin even with the use of a hammer. I have tried in both directions. Any suggestions where to go from here please?

Looking at their website, are Solarfilm back in business or are they still just selling old stock?

I think Fibafilm must be it. Luckily the tail is all flat so the only compound curves will not the eight of an inch or so where it bends round the edge of the elevator and rudder. thanks for your help.

I am resurrecting a Fokker D8 I built from my own plans some 25 or so years ago. I covered the tail in a lightweight material, I think was made by Solarfilm. It is like a tissue rather than woven or a film but does not need doping. I need to recover some area and still have half a roll of the material left. I can’t remember the technique but think you apply Balsaloc to the framework and, when dry, you hot iron it on. After that, I am not sure if you can shrink it with a hot iron or with a water mist. Any help would be appreciated.

Is Balsaloc (also made by the Solarfilm people) still available? My bottle of it is getting low. Is there an alternative?

I have been running it from a 12V car battery rather than a lipo. could this have caused the problem?

Does anyone here know how the switch works? MY align turns as soon as it is connected to the battery. I have taken one side off and the micro switch seems to work OK - at least it clicks when I press the actuator. I can’t properly check it without taking off the wires which seem to be soldered on. Obviously the switching mechanism is more sophisticated as the micro switch connects to a little electronic board. Has anyone got any suggestions

I had an OS 81 alpha - gudgeon pin broke - a fairly unusual failure. I think the alpha series were an unsuccessful experiment which OS soon terminated.

I have recently joined my local indoor flying sessions. I am a reasonably experienced outdoor flyer but am finding flying in such a small space quite challenging. I have started with a Microaces SE5A but a couple of times the wall has jumped out and hit the plane. I am wondering if I should get something slower flying to get my eye in. UMX Night Vapor seem quite popular but other suggestions are welcome.

It was given to me second hand so I don’t think consumer legislation will be much help. The problem seems to be the main board not the switch so the items shown won’t do the trick. I have posted a Wanted ad on BMFA Classified and I am hoping that will bring something.