Jon H

I thinned some zap resin and used a very worn and sacrificial badger airbrush to really hose it around the tank bay of my acrowot xl during the build. once done i wafted a heat gun around inside to slightly warm it up. i probably left it a week before doing further assembly, but as its unlikely the model will go from board to sky to fuel leak in under a year over night would probably be fine. Flying it last summer the engine quit unexpectedly and after i found its battered hulk in the crop i discovered the tank empty a good 2 minutes before the timer was up. At the time i was trying to move house so did not have time to conduct repairs. I chucked it in the corner of my dads garage and it was only last weekend (7 months later) that i dug it out and confirmed a tank leak. Seems the bung in the tank gave up and all the fuel leaked out. Damage however is minimal and the epoxy held up really well with near zero penetration into the wood even after months with residue all over the place. I am a big fan of the airbursh method but make absolutely sure you have a good quality mask as the spray is obviously very unpleasant.

I agree frank but the ST's are pressurised and even if they were not, unless the tank is miles away its really not going to be an issue. I flew ran a saito 450 r3 on standard tubing with no problems at all despite the prophecies of despair i found online that told me anything short of a garden hose wouldnt cut it. How they came to this conclusion is beyond me. In any case, standard tubing is fine. Mods note Comment which caused bad feeling removed To be honest i am inclined to agree both for the ST and the larger Moki engines as well. I would always favour the lower oil for economy and cleanliness reasons, but the 5% nitro is very unlikely to cause any trouble, but i would stick to 5. If you go to 10 you might need to shim the head or otherwise faff about. also Alan is totally correct as higher nitro/oil fuel will be more expensive and you will use more of it.

This makes absolutely no sense at all. The standard 3/32 id fuel tube will be fine as the hole in the middle is miles larger than the fuel passages within the carb to say nothing of the needle.

where did you get that spinner? I have one for my yellow but its not in the best nick and knowing where to get a spare is always handy

I would discourage mixing fuels with different oils in them just in case they dont want to play well together.

All 155's are stamped with the size. Both engines are fine on low oil fuel Yep. 150 left with barrel shape fin barrel and rounded edges to the fins. 155 right with wider crankcase (2mm) different profile to the fuin barrel and fins with a square section, not radiused like the other engines.

Very strange one. He was landing runway 23 and the wind was 270 at 33kts if i remember rightly. Not a massive cross wind component and it seems they just didnt flare before planting it on the runway.

Old laser 150 for sale. Cylinder bolt bosses clearly visible in this older version. and generally the cylinder looks more part of the engine and less 'on top' than on the 100. https://classifieds.bmfa.org/acadp_listings/laser-150 PS, dont buy it at that price. Its early/mid 90's, chrome liner (maybe), irvine carb, exhaust conspicuous by absence. Assume it needs rebuilding (bearings rings and springs), new exhaust, carb probably worn...

err...it looks like a 100? 100s look like that, and so its a 100. I appreciate thats not very helpful but the clearest visual guide is the completely parallel cube shape crankcase. 150's have a bulge of some variation or another to support the cylinder head bolt. This bulge is obvious on the top surface of the mount lug. It seems the old laser site is on its last legs. i did have the 150 detailed as a discontinued engine but those pages are gone/hidden For power the 150 should handily beat an os120 on the same prop. When it comes to putting the size (or not) on the engine i did ask why and the answer was that the person who bought it knew how big it was and it only mattered for the 2nd hand market, which wasnt our problem.....As the 2nd hand market wasted a lot of my time asking 'what size is this?' by email/phone i deduced quickly that this policy was short sighted and stamped the size on all of them.

Never bothered with it. I give them a few wiggles right out of the packet, then slap them in the model and go for gold. By the time i am done setting up all the throws and messing about they have an hour of up time on them. I have only ever had 2 branded servos (eflite) actually fail on me and they were years old by then. A few cheap ebay 9g servos gave up on me but they were about 70p each and i was 15 so didnt know any better! I dont count them as they were crap in the first place. Personally i would wonder if running a servo from end to to end of its travel constantly for an hour would actually be good for it. Its not a use case they will ever see in service and its beyond what i would expect one to tolerate. I would be concerned about heat build up when there is no rest for that amount of time. I know there is little load but the thing is still driving itself.

First issue, thats not a 150. Its a 100 from the 2000-2006 sort of time frame. If you still have the option, you might want to chase the seller. Given the age of the engine and its unknown history i recommend the rocker cover is removed for a looksee. If everything looks clean and shiny give it a lube with some 2 stroke oil and move on to running. If it looks a little grubby, or you just want to be totally sure all is well, whip the front housing off and take a peek in the front. Its only 4 screws and you wont touch the timing. If that looks good sling some 2 stroke oil in there as well, put a smear of silicone round the front of the case and put it all back together. Running in. 14x7 or 15x6 prop, OS F plug, 5/7 low oil fuel. Start it, run at about 5000rpm for 30-40 seconds, full throttle and tune for max power, throttle back to tune tune idle, done. Should take under 3 minutes from the first turn of the blade. Look for 9000rpm ish on an APC 14x7 but dont tune with the tach. Cant remember the revs for a 15x6. should be about the same, 9000 ish. Fit to model, fly 3 or 4 tanks using the 15x6 (be sure to have some high rpm time), then go for 16x6.

haha just thinly veiled enough to get past the coc

last flight of the day has to be a good one absolutely

No they dont. The example you gave about the earth being flat is a technicality which misses the point. It is a fact for sure, but its one that would no doubt be misused to distort the broader picture. There is no new information that will make castor any better or the earth less round. No technicality, no opinion will change the facts when it comes to these two specific issues. I do agree however that there are always new ways to do things. When i started at laser i was a 2% castor guy and was fairly determined to keep it. That was until i actually learnt something from people who knew more about it than i did. Presented with the facts it was clear to see i was wrong and i enrolled in club synthetic. Fast forward a decade of being castor free i started investigating the use of lower oil content in glow fuels as it no longer made sense to me to use so much. Again conversation with people of greater knowledge of lubrication than me aided in starting with a very safe 7%. Plans were to lower it incrementally with 5% being easy and an ultimate goal of 2.5-3% but thats not going to happen now. My approach is to always aim to do a better job than last time. Each flight, landing, loop, each new model i build etc should all be better than the one that went before it. Processes, procedures, materials...the list is endless. Clearly this is not always possible, but i have on more than one occasion taken off again to do another landing as the first one was rubbish! The point is i will never accept that things are just fine as they are and will always be looking for ways to do things better. This approach seems to sit well in my new job even if the PED dept are sick of the sight of me

nice try.