Jon H

Glad we managed to find it. DPD decided to drop it off 4 miles short of its destination for some reason so a search and rescue mission was required. 🙄 Theres been a delay collecting the last batch of bits but it will probably come this week. As i said already its likely to be low value for the most part, but there seems to be an electric ju52 in there which looks quite nice. Details to follow when i get the stuff in my hands. Of the existing stiff most of the engines are still available but the mercos, os 10 and 15 are sold. Model wise the 40 trainer and the built radio queen are still looking for homes.

what about insufficient? My small hurricane did some similar things due to very low incidence.

Maybe not. I would check wing incidences before doing anything else. For a biplane like that i would guess 0,+2,+3 for tail, lower wing, top wing. It is a guess though. See if you can find a plan on outzone for a similar model and do a comparison.

Stand by. Ill be back...

If the slow run needle is too lean the main will become unresponsive on an st carb. When it comes to cleaning I have hooked up my fuel pump to the carb and blasted it that way. Another issue is the spray bar being in the wrong place. St carb spray bars are adjustable and it could be out of whack

What? It must be more than a foot from the engine?! no wonder it needed pressure. A 12oz tank is all it needs and that will fit in the bay in front of the wing. APC prop is fine, wooden one would look nice...just avoid master airscrew. replace the needle if you can, or remove the abomination and replace with a thin wire soldered on with a support in the cowl. Helicopter canopy mounting rubbers can be useful for this. Pipes. One clunk, one vent to forward facing pipe hanging out of the cowl, one fill/drain. Be careful pulling G on the airframe. The top wing centre section design is pretty naff and depending on a variety of factors its not hard to tear the wings off. I dont let others fly mine as their exuberance may remove the wings. I break my dummy flying wires all the time despite having substantial slack in them. You can still fly aerobatics, and i do with mine, just be gentle. When i build a new one i will modify the wings to make them stronger. The model was designed to weigh half of what they do now, with a merco 61 at the front and no ability to do aerobatics. Times have changed, the model has not, mods are needed.

I used one, a dubro, and it leaked. So i replaced it with another more expensive one, and that also leaked. The latter one lasted a while, but both were rubbish and they were a constant problem on customer engines so they are in my naughty books forever!

Booo, horrible leaky unreliable..... 😛

yes i was confused by that as well

It's a year 2000 manufacture 150 so 18x6 would be my prop of choice. The previous owner clearly had running problems, probably due to poor tank placement, and has fitted a pressure nipple to try and compensate. This won't work and the nipple is already leaking so will fall out eventually. Lower the tank and install on the fuselage floor to fix all the problems. Oh and screw the exhaust extension further in. Its barely hanging on by a thread and will fall off. I just spotted the Brunel inspired needle extension. This will vibrate and snap the needle off. At the very least mixture will be all over the place. Change for something lighter

I agree with Chris and would not recommend this sort of test for the exact reason you have already described. Takeoff is the time a model is most vulnerable and a fast taxi is a dangerous halfway house. If the model is ready to go, just send it. I trim slightly nose down for a maiden flight to help fight against a steep yank off the ground due to a bump or high rate on that first takeoff. I essentially run it in a straight line until the curvature of the earth gets the model in the air and only use about 80% throttle to protect myself from airflow in the cowl or other weirdness causing the engine to go sick. Once up the first order of business (assuming the model is stable and climbing out) is to get the gear up. I do this to clean up the drag, and because the wheels are in the way should i be in trouble and need to plonk it down in the field. I cannot understand why people fly around with their gear down. It makes absolutely no sense at all. Anyway with the gear up just maintain runway heading for a bare minimum of 10 seconds before you even think about a turn. Then its the usual trimming and so on, stall test/elevator flap mix setup. By now 5 minutes are up, bring it down, wing off, check remaining fuel and for loose articles, put it back together and go again with any rates changes applied. In the case of the typhoon you need to fly it and see how it is. All of my warbirds are trimmed for a moderate level cruise sort of speed and the climb under power, dive under reduced power, and want to lawndart themselves with the gear and flap down. This is where the elevator flap mix comes in and you effectively set an elevator offset to trim the model for the landing configuration. With the model trimmed to a speed just under stalling provided you never touch the elevator on approach you cannot stall the model as a reduction in speed below the trimmed speed will result in a natural nose drop to regain the trimmed speed. You can adjust the rate of descent using throttle and float it on in.

I am with Ron on this one. I have the La7, Sea Fury and P39 currently flying with each being more than a decade old and all using their original retracts etc. They did require some fettling during the build, but generally they perform very well. The Typhoon has a very short nose and lead is to be expected. Near 20lbs is a little porky for a 72 inch model, but you might be able to trim some fat if you remove some lead after the test flights and/or modify the installation to get it further forward. I found the c/g recommended to be ok, a little nose heavy but not awful. Their recommended rates however are miles off, particularly when it comes to elevator. My sea fury was a right handful on the recommended rates and i now fly with a low rate of about 5mm. This is all it needs, and its probably still nose heavy. Anyway the typhoon has a thick wing and large flaps. Dont be shy with the flaps, get them down a good 45 degrees, use elevator/flap mixing to retrim the model (you will need nose up trim with gear/flaps down) and fly it in on throttle without touching the elevator. The approach will be steep vs a sport model and you must always be descending. Once the nose of the model rises above level it will all be over very quickly. Long flat approaches with power are doomed to fail, do not even try it. For example, i have this exact model and its a pussycat to land using the right technique. Do it wrong and it will bite you hard. Watch what happens as soon as the nose rises. The speed bleeds off immediately and its all over. If you can see a shadow under the wing of your landing warbird its bin bag time. On the canopy issue, if you can get it off mostly in one piece you can cover it inside and out in thin fibreglass, then cut out all the windows to leave just the frame. You can then replace all the windows with some clear acetate or similar. Bit of a faff, but it will look great.

Horn balances are there to help prevent flutter by balancing the control surface. They often have a big chunk of lead in them for this purpose. They also provide aerodynamic assistance to the pilot making the controls lighter and easier to move. Looking at the drawing above there seems to be no mass balancing and its all about reducing the control forces.

Thanks Alan for collecting the Jabberwock on Friday. Enjoyed the chat as we put the world to rights, and a spitfire fly over was also not bad. For those waiting for me to send your stuff im sorry for the delay. I have just been so busy the last few weeks my various admin tasks have been neglected. I also lost last weekend due to plague and have suffered some lethargy after work last week due to the rather warm conditions. I have however found a post office open late though so hope to get things moving. I have also been informed that another batch of stuff is due. Looking at the photos sent its not high value stuff. a number of half built models, some gliders etc, but if i can get even a tenner for each that's going to be fine. I am due to collect the stuff on thursday and will post photos.

I favour having some wingtip after the aileron for the simple reason that a ground loop or other event can cause a wingtip to hit the ground and rip off the aileron as there is a gap for grass or whatever to catch on. That is a fairly niche issue though and in flight it makes little difference either way

At work i regularly glue rubber seals to metal and use loctite 480. Its a rubber infused cyano designed for this sort of job and its very strong. Its useless at sticking to acetal though, so i dont know if the foam you are sticking to will be something it likes. Do you know what sort of foam it is? I just did a google search and was a little surprised by the price of this fancy glue. I hose it on with gay abandon at work so it must cost the company a fortune.

Just for an update items sold are: Stuka Jabberwock radio queen kit playboy kit FSR 40 engine Small sport/trainer. Thanks to you guys for that. The rest of the items are still available and open to offers.

It looks nice and i was tempted to keep it myself (as with half the stuff) but i have too much on the go as it is so someone else should enjoy it.

Another kit. Nice looking model with a pre built wooden fuselage and foam wings. Not quite artf but close.

The only 61s in the mix are the two Merco engines and they are spares/repairs. I'm really not looking for big money for them. 15 quid the pair plus post and see what you can make of them

Last engine is an os 40fsr with original box. Runs well but needs new bearings. Must be worth 40 quid surely? Its still an os after all

More stuff for you all to muse Enya SS40, nice clean condition and ran very well on test today. Enya 35v-BB. Dual ball raced and ran perfectly on test. The only negative is the exhaust clamp/screws are a bit deformed and in need of a little fettling. Another Enya 35v but this time a plain bearing version. Runs perfect but no exhaust. OS 10. No exhaust, ran ok but i dont think it was a fan of my slightly wonky glowplug. Carb probably needs a thorough clean as well. Boxed OS 15. Ran quite well but also wasnt a fan of my test glow plug. OS19. Weakest of the bunch with fairly soggy compression. Ran, but probably best considered spares/repairs HB20. I wasnt able to run this as it didnt fit my bench but it seems to be in good condition. Mills 1.3. Runs nicely and seems in generally good condition. There is a hairline crack in the fuel tank but it does not seem to leak. The carb is missing its air bleed cut off lever so i have plugged the holes in the intake with a small piece of heatshrink tube so its an easy mod to reverse. I think the backplate might also need a new gasket but its nothing major. The prop driver seems to have had a repair to its rear face i suspect to repair overtightening damage. It works fine at the moment but might need a new one in future. little sport type model for 20 ish size engines. Made of some kind of laminated foam over a balsa frame. I think EZ models used a similar construction. Nice little thing, needs a thorough run through with glue as many of the joints are no longer friends. This kit is really nice. 60 inch P47 new in box complete with pre curved sheeting for the fuselage sides. I didnt even know that was a thing! The box suggests the kit is from 1976 but the canopy is still clear and everything is in really good condition. its 5 channel by design (no retratcts) but could easily be modified for full house. Its miles clear of the seagull version from today and im a little sad i cant keep it myself. Not looking for mega money on the engines, a price near the size of the engine would probably be about right in most cases. The small sport model could be a nice little bargain but the P47 really isnt for giving away. As before, if you are interested in anything shoot me an offer over.

Thanks to those who have been in touch. Looks like the Stuka, Radio queen kit and Jabber have gone. A few engines today. These are the poorly ones and are for spares/repairs. I am sure they will be useful to someone. Merco 61 x2 with one muffler. Both locked solid with castor, one has a bent crankshaft. A pair of fox 25's. One is assembled, i believe complete but locked up with castor. The other has its cylinder removed for some reason but seems more or less complete. Fox 19 dismantled in a bag. It looks like all the parts are there. Fox hawk 60 dismantled in a bag. Again i think its all there. These are the ones i consider 'dead' or at least beyond repair in the time i have available to mess with them. I plan to test run the other good engines tomorrow and will list them once im done. There are more kits and things to come, its just taking time to pick up and appraise everything.

Aylesbury bucks. The kits aren't too bad to post but collection is favourable as I didn't count everything and it allows the buyer to satisfy themselves all is well. I'm probably being over cautious but better that than flogging a lemon. The engines are likely to go cheaply. 10-45 quid I expect but I'll run them up and see

yea should do. The oem jobs might still be available from ripmax but their website is throwing a fit so i cant find it