Chris Walby

IMO buying a flying site does not necessarily guarantee that there won't be issues. OK if you can buy a site that includes all of the ground the models will be flying over then perhaps yes, but that will be very expensive (Not even the BMFA Buckminster site has that privilege). Perhaps some of the less populated areas of the UK, but then again they will probably either get built on or have solar farms with no fly zones on or near it. Seeing the different opinions regarding the BMFA National Centre there as absolutely no chance of getting more than one aero modeller to agree to do anything that involves very significant amounts of money. Solution move to a less populated island that has less demand on its land. PS Don if people can force church bells to be silenced the a noisy model club won't be a problem to them

I think there are limits (been there, got the bin bags) regarding weight, but with a good dose of power and flaps its not normally an issue. My Douglas Boston (Steve Rickets build) is 34Kg and 128 inch wingspan and Tigercat 23kg and 116inch, both have very slow landing air speed with full flaps deployed. Not bad considering one is + 50 and the other 35oz/ft, both are not in the light weight category by a long way. I don't like doing taxi tests, it either doesn't track track straight (adjust something) or its get on with it and get some air under the wings for the maiden. It will fly a lot better once its trimmed in (if it needs any). PS My yet to be flown ESM Tigercat is going to have the wing loading very close to the Douglas Boston and I don't expect any problems (10.5Kg and 82 inch).

Where is a Spitfire when you need one 🤣 I was out with the WR Tempest (lovely flyer), Corsair (still got the bike clips on) and BH Hurricane (more changes to reduce elevator travel/improve servo linkage). It takes off a treat, flies really nice. Once the gear is down it becomes a lot of hard work and the flaps just make things worse! Best landing yet with no flap. Next outing I will try a much steeper approach with full flap.

Cheers, so does the increased/reduced camber affect the tip stalling properties + does the increased drag cause yaw or adverse yaw?

One of those nagging questions where some models have ailerons that form part the wing tip and other models have ailerons finish just short and thus the wingtip runs from LE to TE. Given two wings with the same wingspan/chord and the only difference being the wingtip profile and assuming the wing has no washout. What's the advantages/disadvantages of each design? What is likely to happen if ailerons are used and the wing reaches a point of stall with each of the designs. I appreciate there are many other considerations and adjustments that designers employ so its rather simplified question, but still worth asking 🙂 Thanks for your time.

Good to see you posting updates and making progress. I still rate two steps back and one forward as progress as at least it the big scheme of things its getting closer to the end result! I needed two elevators so glued two bits of balsa together and stacked the the weights on the top...this morning when removing the weights I realised that I had glued all the balsa together! Keep up the good work PS needed to remake the battery tray on my Tigercat...found the previously unfound lead (520g) in the nose had broken loose. So IMO don't worry about making the front heavy/sturdy.

IMO jump straight to steering tail wheel and save the time modifying it later.

Richard, thanks for your thoughts and keep my name on the list for a Spit (yet to be converted any yet to be proved wrong about being overrated 🤪) and a 109 please. Feed back for yourself and off last week to the third flight of the Corsair and what did I take to test the not yet used cross runway and fully cross wind main runway...the WR tempest (flies great in all conditions and good for calming the thumbs). Corsair is nice, but when compared with the Tempest, boy it must be draggy... 6S6000 and same flight time as the Tempest Making progress with the Bf110 so no rush for anything else at the moment!

Model Fixings try magnets with holes in the centre ....how long a screw is up to you!

You could use what you have, but I would suggest making the leap and ditch the glow clip type driver completely. First you don't have the weight Secondly your average 3S2200 lipo will last a very long time + you can check it with your normal lipo battery checker Thirdly with the box of tricks you can switch the glow driver on or off at will. I have a ASP120 with through cowl long glow clip that has to get some real heat into it or it stops...great if I have just removed the glow stick as I then have to lay on the ground to reinsert the glow stick. So with the volt/amp meter you will need a DC/DC converter (great little device as you can adjust the current to the glow) and a Lipo Lead for a twin glow plug version, but you get the idea Questions Do you own either a 3S or 4S lipo? Something around 2200mAh? One I am making up for a club member (who has helped me out with UC, UC pins and elevator linkages), its essentially two in one bog as I have a number or twin cylinder engines hence one set for single glow plug in series and one set for two plugs in series).

The Wotswot (ARTF) is a dog as the electric retro fit can only easily be installed as the instructions direct. The alternative is major surgery near the structural wing joiner/fuselage fixing. And then make a hatch in the top assuming you beef up the rest so the motor does not rip the bulkhead out. Arming models upside down through the prop arc is an accident waiting to happen, pity as its a nice flying model, but worth moving mine on. IMO best left in the past as there are designers that currently consider battery location and design the airframe to suit the smooth power deliver that electric flight has over IC bone shakers.

Can be used for a electronic glow plug driver...or just as a volt meter PS great care id using the current meter function as there is no fuse on board..only magic smoke

I have seen somewhere to slot the threaded end of the screw (assuming you can get to it when installed) so if you snap the head off you can get a screwdriver in to unscrew the remains

KC, I didn't want to modify the battery bay or mess around with the battery cover plate as i didn't like the idea of the battery moving around in the fuselage. Or just use a Velcro strap, simple, reliable and less faffing about with electrical tape and the retainer Either cable tie or Velcro although I would always recommend putting a non-slip material between the battery and battery tray as I have had batteries slide when retained with a tie/strap

There is a very significant design flaw with the battery plate/keyhole attachment method using the supplied Nylon screw! At some point either the screw thread will strip due to excessive tightening or slacken off, either (latter in my case) when combined with a stall turn will result with the battery ejecting itself from the model! As my Wotswot was electric and once the battery disconnected itself from its EC5 connecter the C of G moved a long way back and my RX powered off until its stalled The fix is really simple which stops the battery plate sliding, however there are better solutions out there/mentioned above PS I couldn't use a cable tie due to space so ended up using electrical tape to secure the battery to the tray + the battery had to be inserted with the model upside down, IMO a right bodge job