Chris Walby

Do as I say, not as I have done! Still learning by my mistakes! Paint the floor with a sealer, then put down that square castellated floor matting (great thermal, Ops just dropped something important and easy to rearrange). Lay it across the entire floor area and then its easy lift a section for say a bench feet etc. Paint the walls with a sealer No ceiling just board above the joists with a few access panels so you can put models/boxes up there without walking around up there. Ron's suggestion of a load bearing partition is a good option. Reduce drafts and limit the air volume (pointless heating the roof space while you freeze at ground level) that way when you need to heat the space it won't take long or use a lot of energy to do it. Sockets at high level or on the joists in every corned of the garage! Then an extension lead to the bench/shelf (flexibility is your friend). Heating, if you can't do a diesel heater then someone might have a better idea than me.....but don't use a propane heater....adds humidity and heat in equal quantities! Keep us updated on your progress....Me, well off to source some insulated roller doors so you have a head start!

JR, I think you are masking the ropy battery by the way you have tested it. From experience having overly discharged some packs they appear to recover, but they are nowhere near the same as a normal pack in performance. Firstly the battery capacity typically reduces and more importantly they just won't perform well under high load conditions. The likely point of voltage collapse is under high current load...probably when you are taking off with very few options to get your model back without a bin liner. Less likely is during flight as the battery will have warmed up a bit and the max current will have reduced (unless prop hanging is your thing). Give it a go, but I can't see the point of nursing a model around the sky when you can put another battery in and fly normally. Discharge it and recycle.

IMO measuring the voltage under load is a total waste of time as its dependent on the load applied. Its meaningless because you are looking at instantaneous (possibly delayed) voltage on a discharge profile that peaks on take off and during certain manoeuvres. OK if you have a very low power setup compared with the capacity of the battery it might sort of work, but its not very reliable for of determining remaining battery capacity. I have an eFlite EDF that gives a telemetry low battery voltage on take off if I go WOT for more than 5 seconds, absolutely nothing wrong with the batteries its just the 30C load that causes a bit of voltage sag. Back off the throttle and fly around for another 5 minutes and still land with reserve capacity in the battery with no more alarms. I think its far better to measure current/voltage (mAh) and determine the amount of battery capacity that is used. I know a few guys with big EDF's and gliders that use this to great effect in both maximising flight time and not over discharging the battery packs.

Don't forget to make three wheels...if you have a spare I'll never need to use it! As for the wheel material, I think if it tries to ground loop hub failure/tyre peeling off is more likely.

Why worrying, if you were blind or partially sighted you wouldn't want to accidently walk in to an active firearms range. 🙄

Oh no not again! Depending where you get the ESC's from ESC's in the nacelles and battery in the fuselage. Recommended by 4Max in my GTC, DC3 and, Ta154, Fockie Stick and BH Mossie, plus Freewing use the same set up in the P38, OV10 so its totally possible with stock ESC's. Although some will say you shouldn't do it...but how many electric twins have they got?

My Riot developed a very distinct bend in the fuselage and I contacted Century, their response was "could it be trimmed out in flight, if so leave it as there was a possibility of damaging the fuselage structure". Hot water works to a point, then its up to you if you want to break it and reset yourself.

Paul, Those retract look a long way forward? Here's one I broke earlier BH Mossie iirc 63 inch, looks like the retract plate is in line with the LE of the wing. From memory it leaves the wheel very tight at the back of the nacelle. Hope this helps and keep up the good work 🙂

So how does the logic go? Mix two different fuels, then retune the engine, then run out of your special brew and buy some new...then retune again Or carry on using the fuel you have until it runs out, then use the other lot after a retune then buy new and retune it again As Jon says why bother and risk a problem as its the same number or retunes + if you have a few engines I'll end up doing the retune a multiple times. I can see the logic if mixing the same fuel, but with either different nitro or oil percentages, IMO i have enough going on without retuning engines just for the fun of it (great when the prop and cowl have to come off every time.

So they are capable of producing FULL power while running in reverse?

This and the indoor 3D is actually a very big step forward (getting close to standard industrial motor speed controllers, but they are very expensive) regarding motor speed control! For Joe public its just a feature, but stopping a motor at full speed and then rotating it at full speed in the other direction is electronically quite difficult to do without toasting electrical components! PS Well that buggers up all the safety rules saying to restrain models...when they can exit backwards at full speed into the pits! Won't get that with IC !

Don't really need reverse thrust, but have toyed with the idea on my WooHoo twin. Some call it diner plating or spinning like a circular saw blade! Does make an interesting sound PS we have been tempted to fit a G meter in the wing tip to see what its really pulling 🤣

Can the Durafly Tundra V3 be fitted with floats? If so I understand that its very useful to be able to reverse out of the weeds etc. Don't bother unless you intend to fly off water. I would think of either button or switch, if accidently operating in flight will not end well for the motor/ESC or model! A few of the EDF guys use reverse thrust on landing, but it all seems a bit complicated to approach for landing, then dead stick, then land, then select reverse and then modulate reverse thrust to bring it to a rapid stop without whizzing backwards!

Hi Sonny With the size and weight of the model I would be inclined to either build it with fixed UC or hand launch to start with. Counter rotating props should make it easier to get away from the ground and by all means build it so that servoless retracts can be fitted at a later date. For me the number one target would be to build it to the advised weight. Specification DH.98 Mosquito Model type: Scale fighter-bomber Designed by: Robert J. Caso Wingspan: 36.5″ (927mm) Wing area: 1.8 sq. ft. (0.16sq. m) All-up weight: 2 lb 7oz (1.1kg) Wing loading: 22oz / sq. ft. (6.7kg / sq. m) C of G: 2.6″ (66mm) behind the l.e. at the wing mounting point Functions (servos): Aileron (1); elevator (1); rudder (1); flap (1); retracts (1); throttle (via ESC) Powertrain: Two Himax 2812-1080 brushless outrunners; two 8 x 6″ props with 38mm spinners; two 3s 1350mAh Li-Pos; two 18A ESCs Good luck and keep posting any questions you have. 🙂

A game all Laser owners can play! Spot the difference? Answers below PS And yes they are different images as one is a 150 and the other a 155 according to the Laser web site!