Witterings

Has anybody tried / compared JX to Emax, I'm looking at the JX PDI-1109MG which seem to have a reasonable spec as well.

Thank you for that .... as you say the Corona name would make me hesitate 🤨 I have used E-max in the past in smaller planes which have been good so will take a look at those.

I'm tempting fate as I type this but up until now it's never had a crash / any damage, the covering could possibly do with some "tightening up" in places and will try that (I'm guessing just a hairdryer??) and try again with the other recent changes. Would certainly consider a stall strip but will probably try and see if I can get an incidence meter 1st.

The ailerons slightly up may be as a result of me trying different things to resolve issues 12 years ago and have just forgotten what I did at the time. I don't have an incidence meter unfortunatley, I googled for one the other day, the Robart one seemed quite popular but looks like it's discontinued and don't really want to spend £70 for a Multiplex one that hopefully will only have one use. I used to be a member of a club and still know some of the people so may see if I can borrow as I'm sure someone there will have one.

I'm looking for some budget metal gear servos in the 11 / 15 gram range, I've used Hitec HS 65 MG's in the past on my more "cherished" planes but these will be for a 43" Foamie and a 48" 3D Hybrid with reasonable size control sufcaes, both will be beaters and get quite a bit of abuse so don't want to spend nearly as the Hitecs. Any recommendations much appreciated.

Just thought I'd give an update re the things I've done / tried since reading the suggested points/ I've gived the frame / fuselage trying to see if it appears warped or out of line anywhere and all looks good. I checked over / the wings / horizontal stabiliser and that they're all aligned I checked lateral balance and it was ever so slightly out ... from sitting in the cockpit the right side being heavier so I moved the ESC and RX and that balanced it so it really was minimal. I also noticed both ailerons were up 2/3mm from flush with the wing so corrected that as well and test flew yesterday, checking it with the battery / CoG in different places as well. It's the 1st time I've made a conscious effort to see if it happens on same side every time which it does and it's the side that was lighter / I've now moved some weight towards. I found a great way to induce it was doing a snap roll and as you come back to upright the wing just drops away every time ..... I've flown 2 other planes this morning and tried the same with both of them and neither exhibit the same type of behaviour doing snaps or pulling level from vertical down. I was re-reading through the replies again this morning as well and stared checking for linkage slop, I noticed that the left aileron was 3mm down from flush without a battery, I put one in and it came back to level. I tested for slop and there is some free play but with the battery in it allows the aileron to rise rather than drop, so with hands off ailerons which is what it would be coming out of a dive, the left aileron may lift causing it to fall that way, but it doesn't, it goes the other way. I also noticed the rudder servo is coming lose at the rear so will do whatever's needed to make sure that's firmly in place and will replace the servo arms on the ailerbons so there's no slop there either and will then test again. If a plane is laterally balanced, if one wing is heavier than the other, might that still cause this type of behaviour, I don't know why but it just has this "feel" that it could be. I'd love to get this sorted as in every other way it flies so well but flying it I don't relax into / enjoy it as it seems hell bent on committing Hari Kari and I'm constantly on edge.

I've got a couple of planes where the film / covering is just starting to peel away on some of the edges, what's the best way to fix it back in place? I don't own a covering iron, can I just ue a normal household one and in which case what sort of heat or might I be better off trying a haridryer on it .... or any other suggestions

Where I said I need to do some flight tests, this is one of th ethings I was going to try and find out, I guess because up until now it's just put me into "panic mode" to save the plane I've not made a conscious effort to study it but was wondering the same as i was typing the initial post. I'll check all the frame etc. and lateral balance before I go fly and will then try lots of things that will induce a stall to see if it's the same each time.

Hitec HS 65 MG's which is the same as I use on a number of other similar size / weight models and large control surfaces so would have thought they're "man" enough. For all the other responses, there's a huge number of suggestions for me to work through, some which I can do in the evenings and others that need a bit less wind for me to get out and fly to check .... Think I'll go through the thread and draw up a list of all the suggestions and then systematically check / work through them all but may take me a week or so to do so, especially the ones that need a flight test. Cheers to everybody though for their help and input, it's greatly appreciated and hopefully I can get it sorted!

Just to give an example of what'd cause the stall, in this video at approx 1.36 and 2.05 are examples or where I have to be really careful and show the sort of pull to vertical I'm talking about, as you'll see it's not hard at all. The very 1st time this plane did it, it really caught me off guard and nearly lost it altogether but thankfully was able to recover. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XBtBrcZcndM

Not even hard up as that will definitely cause it to drop and again why I find it so surprising, I have to make sure it's a gentle curve and whilst it should have the airspeed not to stall do need to apply throttle or it just snaps.

I'd have to check to see if it's the same wing, I don't think it's an age thing as it's done it ever since I've had the plane, it's always been a characteristic I've never liked about it from new. Whilst I didn't appreciate it had a specific name, I do understand the principle and is partially why I used the description of "floaty" as when it's in straight and level flight it can be flown incredibly slowly which is also probably why I'm surprised at just how badly it responds with some rudder input. None of my other planes have a similar tendency and can easily pull "smoothly" out of a dive without getting the same reaction, most of them are probably OK to give hard elevator input / do an a "parachute". I'll give the wongs agood check over and also how they attach to the fuse as they are removable in case there's any significant flex on one side.

I've an old 49" Precision Aerobatics 260 Extra, it flies so well in many ways, tracks beautifully and just floats but upright and inverted ... BUT ... if you fly straight down and then try and pull level it has a very aggressive wing drop which is hard to recover from. I don't mean as hard as doing a parachute i.e. straight down and then full elevator to bring it level, a far less aggressive move will do it, you need to fly out of vertical down careful like you're doing the end of loop for it not to happen. Is there anything I can do that may alleviate it like side force generators on the end of the wings? It's such a shame as apart from that it's a great plane to fly but this characteristic makes it pretty horrible, you're always having to restrict how you fly and it's just not a relaxing experience as you never know when it's going to happen. In case it makes any difference the CoG is pretty neutral with just the tiniest amount of down elevator inverted. Any suggestions if there's anything I can do that might help reduce it would be much appreciated

Oh brilliant and thank you fo rthat, exactly what I was looking for ......... are you positive it's not 14.9999 though?

If I'm honest .... I thought I'd asked that in another forum .... when I did ask it the answers were very "non-specific" and was interested to see if asking a different audience may get a more defined answer because if I google healthy internal resistance of a Lipo battery one of the reples linked here infers that @20 they're approaching their end of life https://www.xtar.cc/news/what-internal-resistance-tells-us-about-battery-health-and-how-to-measure-it-261.html#:~:text=Li-ion Battery%3A Generally%2C,batteries is below 70 mΩ. Guess i was quite surprised that people didn't seem quite shocked that the batteries I received were as high as 19 but I do aplogise for a near duplicate post.