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RICHARD WILLS last won the day on December 21 2024
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Ive seen golf trolleys that fold up like that . Just need to find one for a pixie .
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The wings look like constant chord (not tapered ) . In that case , you wont need washout . Problem solved 😉 Nice drawing BTW.
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Warbird Replicas Hawker Hurricane Build Log
RICHARD WILLS replied to Gordon McConnell's topic in Warbird kits
I left my canopy slid back and locked it there, so it didnt notice anyway . I think the slightly accentuated gap on the model is because when I made the prototype, I enlarged the tail plane by about 10% . That made the scale canopy look too small when viewed from above . So I made a second canopy a little bigger . The model then looked in proportion , but I think that means that the bottom rail of the canopy is then dropping lower and riding on the outward "step " that is in the correctly shaped "dog kennel" behind the cockpit . Lock the canopy back would be my advice . -
Warbird Replicas Hawker Hurricane Build Log
RICHARD WILLS replied to Gordon McConnell's topic in Warbird kits
Gordon , its a long while since I built the Hurricane (2003) so dont remember the finer details . Looks like your canopy needs to come forward a bit , but there will still be a gap as you say . Here is a picture of the Shuttleworth Hurricane . I think they should have gone to "Everest " for their glazing 😁 -
I have one kit left and probably wont make any more . I think what we have to appreciate is that Eric is landing on top of a hill , with a slope , a wire fence , sheep and a short runway ! So if anyone starts moaning about their strip , then dont winge to Eric 😁 His first landing (not shown) was not so nice. Understandable , as a new model with a very restrictive and short runway . It reminded me of somebody chucking a piano out of the first storey window ..... Which is why we need to keep the springy base etc to the Undercarriage design . It is obviously more fussy than a hard mount but it does mean that you can get away with a "wardrobe arrival " without damage to the actual model . Talking of the landings . The twins require a slightly different approach (pun intended , see what I did there ? What a clever Dickey etc ) . When the throttles come back , the prop discs act like air brakes , the wheels drag and so do those massive flaps . So come in shallow and power it in . A bit like a biplane , the landing is controlled on the throttle as there is a lot of drag . Its not difficult though . In fact I find it quite entertaining . The model has no vices , doesnt tip stall , just sinks when you get it wrong . But as soon as you add power , it will pull itself back together quite happily . So really you start a curved approach with flaps and gear down and then watch the sink rate . You can maintain the height by adding power and it will just keep chugging in . The flaps keep it in its own "groove" so it doesnt tend to wander unless you interfere . I would guess that I have at least 1/3 throttle still on when touching down . As Eric has shown and Ron before that , there is nothing to fear in the big twin .
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People must like a Mustang . Just noticed there are over 100,000 views on this thread !
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Marvellous ! Even sounds real in slow motion . I note that your fellow members have a rather casual approach to runway etiquette, and they all seem to be wearing the same jumpers . Aran , by the look of it ? We must presume that there is an excellent local outlet . 😬
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picture Leccy ? they were at Bentwaters I believe for a bit ? Ive flown down that runway in my pals RV .
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I do like a Mustang. There are so many different versions , you could almost have half a dozen ! Great opportunity to play around with different finishes too .
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My other top tip is lock the tailwheel . Unless you go down the route of differential throttles like Ron , there is not enough gain involved to make it steerable . The worst option is fully castoring . This is only my opinion , but I cant see why castoring tail wheels is a good idea on any tail dragger model . When you think about the model , sitting there , ready to take off , there are no forces acting on it . As soon as you open the throttle it will be effected by torque and want to swing left . The fixed and moving flying surfaces have no airflow over them to counteract this force so the only way to negate the swing is a fixed tailwheel on a long moment arm (the fuselage ) . At what point would you guess the rudder actually has enough air flowing over it to apply an equalising force ? 10 mph ? 15mph ? Fair to assume you would have to be perhaps, at least 20 feet from the start point . Of course the prop thrust will help , but that also depends on tail plain height and the blanking effect of the main wing . The famous test pilot , Eric Brown , said of the Me110 , that its fins and rudders were blanked when the tail was down and the only way to stop a swing was differential braking. The Mosquito and Me109 also relied on brakes to stay straight . We don't have brakes . Fit a stabiliser some may say . But that needs an effective rudder to correct the swing . Back to square one . Funny enough , the models that are prone to nosing over are more likely to run straight than those that have a more forward location of their main gear . That is because the further the centre of rotation is from the C of G the , the more it will "squirrel " about . Think Fokker Triplane . Sopwith Camel . So for most you , just lock the tail wheel and forget it . Light , simple . Ok so you may have to get the model after a landing but way better than a massive take off swing that frightens your buddies and may end in a cart wheel . Like I say , just my thoughts .
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For anyone other than a real "electric expert " , follow my lead . 4s 3300 packs or similar , 600kv motors . remember , the correct spinners and props provided have been matched to a certain rev range which the above mentioned will provide . My motors also have the central threaded hole to retain the spinner dome with . So if you go "off piste" you are like to run into all the issues I have already discovered and solved for you .
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I like the fact that Ron and Paul know way more than me about the intricacies of tiny electrons rushing around our models . Despite having quite a sophisticated education in the matter , I simply don't have the enthusiasm for it . Thats the difference in people I suppose . Those that want to try the fancy stuff , try it a little at a time and I know the experts on here will be there to help . I am a much more a"blunt edged " tool , so will go about things in the quickest and simplest way . Might not quite have the finesses , but it will do job . So what I am saying is , if you want to keep it simple , then do just that . Stick the bits together from the box , chuck a 4s battery or 52FS in each nacelle and leave it at that . The 110 is a practical sport scale twin that can be treated like any other model of similar size. I dont want it to look more complicated because the Ju88 and Me110 are quick build twins and that's their appeal . Regarding the IC versions of 6ft twins , I have had many . All generally SC52FS powered . They can rack up lots of flights if you observe a few rules . 1) Put fuel filters in the feed to each motor . 2) When "tweaking " the needles before the first flight , dont try to synch them . You will just end up leaning one out too much . Set them both slightly rich . 3) Regardless of whether you have on board glows or not avoid dropping the throttles too much . The 110 with flaps and gear down will slow anyway . 4) Ask other people to not fly when you do , so you can hear any waring fluctuation . 5) Finally , if you do get an engine out , dont try to be a clever Dickey . Push the nose down and pull the live motor back to half . Smoothly curve into wind and pancake . If you are an average flyer like me , forget any fancy ideas of flying on one etc etc . Luckily the electric twins hardly ever pack up . Ive even tried leaving both red esc leads attached and nothing happened in the twenty flight experiment . In my experience , the things that destroy our models are usually more mundane and would apply to an ARTF Wot 4 . Stuff like connectors coming apart , aileron horns snapping in the cold . Kwik links breaking . Batteries going dead or not being charged properly .
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I'm with Eric . Everyone can do their own thing of course . Just stating that my Ju88 has probably 150 flights on two simple 4s packs in the nacelles and no other battery on board . I simply remove one red wire as Chris shows above . Its not the first twin that Ive followed the same procedure either . Each to their own though . Fixed tail wheel for me too . Again , very easy and minimal weight penalty . It still taxies but I wont be doing much of that on most flights (The clue is in the word "flight ") 😁
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A good point about safety Chris . The nose mounted battery does leave you rather vulnerable to a pair of "bacon slicers " . Having had to deal with a very nasty electric accidental start up on a fellow club member last year , I can can honestly say that I view the risk as very real !
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I think it's good to experiment a little bit . Minor modifications do interest me because we never really know if the first decisions were the best . Batteries in the nose verses one in each nacelle for example . I think they will both balance ok . The only thing to watch out for is what I call "the nod ". That is the violent down force on the point of touch down which will act on the nose or the nacelle where they meet the wing . You can imagine that with the weight of one or two 12oz packs trying to hit the floor is considerable when the wheels hit terra firma and jolt the model to a halt from its decent. With the doublers in the kit , I dont see a problem though . A 120FS and 12oz of fuel would create a similar load on a 72" single engine sports model . Great foot wear in the post above . You will find Declan , that the lads on here are very interested in the background of your shots . Perhaps we all watch too many detective programmes ?😁
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