RICHARD WILLS

I didnt use an Apc for that reason . I think mines got a Radio Active 12x6 or similar . Conventional shaped props look better and require less enlargement of the spinner prop slots .

Andy and I use to fly together at Rivenhall in Essex . So I got to fly some of his models including the Mossie and his very light Chipmunk . The designs are by Ivan Pettigrew and are a bit like the old kiel Kraft stringers and tissue style of construction . Probably a bit too semi scale as Andy says , but amazingly easy to fly when you compare it with the more typical 14lb 72" Mossie . You certainly felt comfortable flying it with every confidence of bringing it home in pristine condition . Going a little more scale will be the answer . But it shows what can be done . The landing speeds were trainer like , so quite modest retracts would suffice . Have a look at his plan as his method of undercarriage was unusual but clever . Thanks Andy .

Should have been coded O😉MG Must be handy having those trays either side of the cockpit , I guess for tea and biscuits etc ?

As much as I like the presence of the 72" twins ,( and if you look a the videos and still shots of the models above , they are very realistic) , the comments often used are , I dont have room for one or it wont go in my car . There is also the extra time taken to charge two batteries rather than one. The other factor is that even a lightish one of say , 10lb will require beefy retracts especially as the trunions are working for and aft rather than Mustang style . A 60" inch model on one standard 4s pack would appeal to more people and would be flown as a hack rather than a Sunday special . I'm not saying twins are the final decision , but in order to broaden the choices we must consider what the barriers are . Wing loading and landing speed must be low to protect the cheap retracts (if fitted ) . The smaller the model , the harder it is to reduce weight . For me , the design problem is fairly substantial because I would prefer a 60" model to be able to take retracts as well as be a less daunting entry level twin . We could pretty much guarantee that it would be a Mossie since I must hit the number to justify it . The Tempest and 190 could have small profit margins because of the numbers sold . I would be surprised if we hit 35 Mossies so my time and expense would be a consideration . The 60" twin would have to come apart quickly with just one coupling , but split in such a way that gave minimal storage and rigging . The reason that I chose the Ju88 and Bf110 for my first twin kits , is because they have square section fuselages . So as a twin is more complicated to make than a single engined model , at least the fuselage can be made quickly . The British stuff never has straight lines !

Both the 110 and 88 didnt disappoint and Ady flew his captured 88 in many competitions . He absolutely loved that model and Ron felt the same about his 110 . Of course, they are both excellent flyers , but you can see that these two have very nice manners . Having said that , we sold only about 15 Ju88s and maybe 25 Bf110s . Criminal really, considering the work that went in and how valued they were by those that flew them . I wont give up on the twin for the masses idea . It may be that a single pack , slightly smaller twin will win the day . The Mossie is the most awkward one , but it is without doubt the most popular .

That model is a proper box of frogs Chris . I take my hat off to the pilot . Even the Dutch roll on the way in speaks volumes . If anyone is worried about all twins being like that , then think again . If you have a look at the original WBR Ju 88 thread , you can watch Ady doing some lovely landings and full aerobatic routine with my 72" version . TNs Beaufighter also seems to fly very nicely as does my 110 . (ask Ron !) .

Hornets , Whirlwinds , I'd like them both but we both know the numbers wont stack up . If its a twin , it will be a Mossie . My first choice would be the Whirlwind but we would get maybe five hands up . Even the Mossie may not get as many votes as we hope . It would depend on what the barriers are with those versions already available on the market . Even so , I am slightly baffled about the reluctance to try a twin .

I have to agree with all of that Chris . You cant have your cake etc . I have a long grass strip which is nice when dry . Even the little Arrows Marlin /Hawk goes off , but of course we have to consider that its a different story in other clubs . We like all of our gang to be able to join the projects so there has to be enough flexibility to make that possible . The Tempests will be flying the nest soon , so it will be interesting to get some feedback on the method of construction and the flying grin factor . Results could be indicative of the next move .

That would be my reservation too . I wouldn't want to have to buy three or four large batteries that I couldn't use for my regular fleet . In fact that is what puts me off buying the rather nice Motion RC F86 . ( also I prefer the satisfaction of making my own ) . On the experimental side , I have modified the Arrows Marlin to carry light retracts and also turned it into a Red Arrows Hawk ! That has been flown quite a bit last year on my regular 4s 3300 packs . Its a quick bodge with a foam rear deck new canopy and false nose . It does prove that on a budget 4s power train , you can have quite an exotic model . Duration is only about 3.5mins but it certainly can be an exciting flight ! Its probably something I will experiment with , perhaps going slightly bigger but still light and trade in some speed for endurance .

Its a conversation we have had many times . As many have said , its also a numbers game . There has to be enough numbers to justify the enormous amount of development . The problem with that is , you can get stuck on the same subjects for ever . However , there are two areas where the background has changed for the better (for us aero modellers ) . Firstly , electric propulsion has meant that twin and multi engined subjects are now as viable as single engined aircraft . Secondly , I feel that EDF models have also reached a very practical and impressive stage . Anyone that has flown the Arrows Marlin or similar will know that it offers a lot of performance for not a lot of money and still runs on 4s . I would always try to utilise what we already have in terms of batteries , to save us all a few bob . The other interesting factor , is what we enjoy the most is not always what we dream of . What I mean by that, is that the feed back on the simple Fw190 kit has been 110% positive with many using it as their favourite hack . How would that compare in terms of end result with say a full fat laser cut , masterclass kit of something more exotic ? It would definitely take longer to make and probably cost more as it would have balsa and more parts . The P47 , Mossie and then Sea Fury , had reasonable hands up . But I wonder how that would compare with an F86 Sabre with optional retracts all running on 4s ? Or at the other end of the spectrum , a classic duelling pair for next winter being the Battle of Britain (steady leccy) 109 and Spit in the format of the Tempest and 190 ?

On the order forms going out , there will be an option to choose decals . Most will chose yellow spinner and "RB " The other option will be Closterman's JFE . We couldnt get the fancy badge on the tail though . Still, if you want a red spinner then this is the correct squadron codes .

I'm going to be posting the order forms out to those who have confirmed their desire for a Tempest on Monday . This system worked well on the 190 logistics , so keep an eye on the post next week . There will be a stamped addressed envelope included so you just have to tick a few boxes and sent it back .

What Paul said is generally true . However I have a vast collection of wheels from different manufacturers . On the same brand you could definitely go from 70mm to 76mm for rough strips . If you are not worried about looks , I have some larger and thinner than that . So anyone having issue like that , should always ask me first as I may be able to swap out the wheels for something bigger and thinner . From a looks point of view the ones shown always look in the ball park and weigh almost nothing . Ive always liked them . But I do think you have a valid point .

Another useful tool here . The sanding drum . Makes lightwork of the edges and tidies up nicely . Just fits in a standard drill chuck . That is pretty much it . Apologies for mine looking rough , but I'm sure you appreciate I dont really have time for hanging about . I reckon you could do the whole lot in an hour if pushed . But to be fair .......Ive done a few . Any questions?

The ribs need to be flush or nearly flush with the bottom wing skin . When you are entirely satisfied with the fit . , brush some water into the cuts and then add the laser cut mount with golden gorilla glue . It will expand to make a really good grip on the foam . You can sand off nay slightly proud bits later . The kits will also include some strips of ply to line the wheel wells . I have a stock of plastic wheel wells , but never found them easy to fit or convenient . They work better on built up wings , but even then they have snags . Wood is easy as it glues well and is quick to fit . Later you will see that I lined the bottom of the wheel well with a cardboard disc.

Next thing is to remove the skin where you have drawn the lines. Although I've shown a knife , my weapon of choice is the cut off hacksaw blade . The fine point goes round corners really well , less chance of cutting yourself too. Just don't go through the top wing skin and ruin your paint job . Next thing is to scoop out the foam . For many years , I use to heat up an old undercarriage leg over the gas cooker ring and scoop out the foam . Then some genius invented the solder gun . This one is £19 on Amazon and you can change the "bit " to a bigger and squarer piece of wire which is superb for scooping out foam . (I understand you can do soldering with it too 😉)

In the pack , you will also get an A4 overlay which aligns with the wing centre line and the leading edge . First , you need to cut out the shape shown . Then holding it in the right position , draw round the inside with a black pen . Easy , so far isnt it ?

Right , lets get back to the business of putting retracts in the FW190 . As Paul says , we are waiting for wheels from a well known wholesaler , but I have a few stashed for those that are chomping at the bit . The retract kit will comprise of : Laser cut wooden parts for the mount . 2x servoless retract units . Pre formed 8swg legs with coil spring to protect the units . 70mm lightweight wheels , star dome captive wheel retainers , wheel doors and Y lead . Price will be hopefully £59.90 You can see some of the main items below. The laser cut mounts only have four parts , but the each wing will have a mirror version of the other , so take time to glue them together appropriately . For instance , the key hole rib must be inner most on both sides and the main mount plate must have the circular recess for the coil spring rearward . When you see the following posts , this will become more obvious . I would recommend using epoxy or golden Gorilla glue throughout .

that is pig ugly .

While he has popped to the loo , Ive been painting his adversary . My little fella is in a home defence squadron and as they were quite worried about being mistaken for an allied flyer in the event of a bail out , they wore a lot of arm bands etc stating clearly what they were. He looks more like a Cylon than a 1940s pilot . They may have been the baddies , but they definitely looked cool . I suppose having your tanks designed by Porsche and your outfits by Hugo Boss helped .

He's camera shy and has also has a weak bladder . Just popped to the loo.

Its all about creating a model that looks far more detailed than it really is . That suits these two entry level kits because they are supposed to be quick build, no fuss models , but that doesn't mean they have to look ordinary . Im still waiting for exhaust stacks before I call it a day . Also got to give the rudder an impression of fabric covering .

The next bit (and this is fun ) is creating and the metallic look where the paint has "worn through " . You can do this with silver paint and a brush but done very dry . However , I prefer the silver shaker pens and a finger . You can dot random little blobs on and quickly wipe them in the direction of airflow . If you cock it up , just paint the base colour over it . I like mine a bit over the top , but you can decide when to stop .

Here are a few more pictures on the finishing technique . This time using a black chalk . A soft pencil will do the same . In the ones below , you can see me using the masking tape on one panel to keep it clean , but with a circular motion I am creating dust that will overlap onto the adjacent panel . You could do the opposite with white chalk on the dark areas .