Jump to content

Steve Houghton

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

1,035 profile views

Steve Houghton's Achievements



  1. ED: Thanks for your tip. As far as I know it was warm enough - just room temperature but inside the house rather than an outhouse/shed. Jason: Thanks for the heads up. I thought I'd try the SP113 just to see what happened, with nothing to lose by trying. I have mixed up 7 or 8 batches of resin now, and each has set well except for the one mentioned above. I strongly suspect I used an incorrect quantity of hardener. I'm pleased to report that my third attempt was successful. I managed to lay up 11 layers altogether, using two separate mixes of resin laid on top of each other. Lay it on: Layers as below, with the uppermost layer of c/f cloth (when viewed from the top) at the bottom of the picture. The underside (top of picture) was finished with a layer of glass, since earlier attempts left the bottom c/f surface rather rough since I didn't use any press to smooth it down: Mould: My mould was made from ply and scraps of balsa for spacers. Two coats of sanding sealer, then 8 coats of release wax each buffed up: Let me Out: Since the mould tapers toward the feet, I made the front surface of plasticard removable so that I stood a chance of removing the product: Drying Out: After drying for 18 hours it felt hard enough to release. The front popped off nicely: Free at Last: The main moulding needed a little persuasion to release, but finally it popped out cleanly without bring any of the mould with it - Phew! Voila: It won't win any concours prizes, but I'm quite happy with the result. All the resin dried nicely and the layers seemed to hold together. I haven't mastered the art of getting a shine on the top surface yet - the surface against the release wax is smooth but matt finish. It just remains to be seen whether it is strong enough and how easily it can be drilled without breaking. Approx thickness 3mm. Unfinished weight before sanding is 20g. Thanks to everyone who has chipped in.
  2. Thanks. I'm making a third attempt today, concentrating on thorough mixing, and will show how I got on in due course.
  3. Thanks, Andy. Useful to know that you have used 'wet' layering successully. I used 2ml and 10ml syringes for measuring by volume, mixing approx 6ml resin to 2ml hardener each time. I strongly suspect I got the ratios wrong for the second mix. I left it in the warm since last Sunday night, and finally pulled it apart tonight, to find that layers 1 to 5 had set but layers 6 to 9 hadn't.
  4. Hi All, I'm attempting to mould my first carbon fibre/glass laminated undercarriage, for a Sssshhwept by Geoff Dallimer (as updated by Shaun Garrity). My first attempt set fine, but it was too thick and heavier than I wanted, at 28g. I managed to laminate my planned 10 layers (4 carbon interleaved with 6 glass) just before the resin started setting. Second attempt, using the same 10 layers again, I refined the process using thinner cloth. This time I mixed up the resin in three batches and applied them without letting the previous layers set. I ended up with the middle layer not setting. Is this likely to have be caused by not letting the layers set before applying the next? The other possibility is an incorrect ratio of resin to hardener in one mix. I'm using some very old Ripmax SP113, but all my trial mixes have set correctly, in the ration 3:1. Any ideas from the experienced moulders, please? Thanks, Steve.
  5. Hi Richard, Just to confirm my recent PMs with you, please could I ask for a Tempest when they become available? I have joined in several of the PSS mass builds, and a 'noisy-ish' one would make a nice change. Looking forward to supporting british business as well. Steve
  6. Hi Rich and Caveman, Thanks for the Enya lead. If nothing comes along second hand I may try that approach.
  7. Hi all, Does anyone have an unused Enya 09-IV TV R/C carb lying around that they would like to sell? I purchased my Enya years ago without the carb. Although I only need the carb, I would also consider a complete engine - condition of the engine is not too important as long as the carb is good and operational. My Fournier RF5 is drilled to suit the Enya, so I'm not looking for an alternative engine at this stage, unless there is no other option. Thanks, hopefully.
  8. I can back-up Gary's recommendation for 1/32 ply. I built Sean Bannister's original Algebra from the RCM&E plan, which had the entire fuselage made from 1/32" ply with 1/8" square spruce longerons and cross-pieces. It suffered many hard arrivals and nose-first impacts without a scratch - the ground always came off worst! I still have it, some 40 years later.
  9. Michael, You may be thinking of the Bay Flyers: Bay Flyers. You'll have to drive around the estuary from Arnside however, as they are on the Grange side. Or, of course Kendal Club itself, which is also South of Kendal: KMAC
  10. Martin, Fizzy Vimto bottles used to be ridge free but the latest ones have tiny ridges, although much smaller than those in your picture. Maybe you can find some old stock!
  11. Thanks Pete, I think I'll just not say anything to the family! I know the JR DSX-9 has a Flap Trim adjuster, so maybe this will be my equivalent of the Futaba rotary.
  12. Thanks, both. Pete: I like the adjustable trim idea. I'll have to check whether my JR DSX-9 supports that. It has no rotary controls, but a few spare sliders. Something to dabble with after the Christmas Dinner, I think!
  13. Thanks Martin, Yes I will have flaps and have started experimenting with programming crow brakes - never used either before, so it will be an interesting exercise.
  14. Hi Martin, Thanks for that. The main restriction on up elevator on my model is the leading edge catching on the fuselage. However, I don't think it needs to move that far for the movements quoted on the plan. If I now remove the -1mm tailplane incidence in line with your recommendation, that will give me even more clearance at the LE and TE..
  15. Hi David, Thanks for your query. The fin fairings are now finished and shaped, but I didn't think they were significant enough to post pictures. I'll try to post some shortly. Tailplane Incidence I wondered if anyone can tell me what incidence the all moving tail should be set at relative to the wing? With my wing propped up at 0 degrees (parallel to my bench), I have -1mm at the leading edge of the tailplane. Alternatively, with the tailplane propped at 0 degrees I have +2.5mm at the wing leading edge. Does this sound about right? Regards, Steve
  • Create New...