kc

The World needs printed content because online stuff can disappear instantly - many Modelflying threads have been 'mutilated' by former members their having postings removed when they left ( seems to have been their choice! ) so are often unreadable now. Online plan collections have disappeared instantly. The digital RCME and the forum exists because of the printed magazine. We need printed magazines and books.

I cannot see many aeromodellers buying a magazine half full of model boats! And I suppose the same would apply to boaters who wouldn't be interested in the aero stuff! Lets put a stop to that idea right away if we wouldn't buy that sort of magazine.

My copy seems to be of the same quality as usual ....with perhaps the Tx photos not quite up to the rest. Perhaps copies varied? Anyway I think the Fundroid article and plan looks interesting.

You will have to work out how you can start a glow motor in this model- how do you access the prop? Electric would be easier. This is probably the most impossible scale model to build - at least 1 very experienced builder ( on this forum years back ) seems to have given up due to the problems.....

The type of u/c shown in the photo is often called a torque rod u/c as the horizontal section should twist slightly to provide springing- but it will only work like that if the vertical part is restrained. Worth checking the fuselage holds the vertical part well.

It seems nobody has .....so far.... but it looks an attractive kit from a British maker and at a good price. Their website shows the plan and building instructions so you can see them before you buy.

I also had a One Time Passcode from Microsoft last week which was unexpected and un-wanted - then the e-mail address I use for this forum suddenly yesterday failed to show any recent emails in my inbox. Only shows emails up to 4 years ago and nothing more recent! But this is a BT internet email address not Microsoft. I still have to sort this out.......

If you prefer to work in balsa -like most of us- take a look at Mini Waste Wings to see a more economical way to build. Might be useful for your design or might give ideas. Just fitting the wing ribs into the sheet with 'tails' interleaved even if the grain is not absolutely correct might save an awful lot of expensive balsa. Worth planning balsa use well before cutting to achieve most economical use. You could also consider whether any parts could be made from liteply.

DB Sport & Scale website suggests i.c size .29 to .40 and also electric setup from 4Max. Suggested motor/ Lipo/ prop from 4Max website. Lots of other info there too. I don't think you will need 980 watts!

In electric flight the important thing is to get the Lipo battery well forward to avoid having to use lead. Try fixing the Lipo right up the front - maybe use rubber bands to attach whilst checking CG - and see if balance can be achieved without lead. Maybe it might need a bit of modification to get the Lipo in the ideal position but it will be worth it to get a model that flys well. ( light models crash less than overweight models! ) I have Barnstormer 63 acquired from a club member that I have not flown yet. It's 'ex everybody' at our club but it seems to have been used with a 4S 3000 lipo which sits right up behind the motor. I will use a 4S3000 and a suitable prop to give no more than about 500 watts - a slow flying trainer or scale type model only needs about 70 to 100 watts per pound weight. I expect my model weighs about 5 pounds with a 4S3000 and I will check it soon and rig it up for flight. This particular model has been flown a lot by others and maybe was built especially for electric as the motor bulkhead is well forward to allow the Lipo to sit about 2 inches from the nose. In my view it's important to have a hatch on the top to connect up the lipo - safety of course as an electric motor will start instantly and fingers must be kept well away whilst live. So try the balance and see where the lipo needs to go for balance without lead then decide whether it needs modifications. Of course a heavier Lipo could avoid lead and might fly for longer but still won't fly as well as a lighter model.

In 1963 a brand new Mini cost £440 and a 3 bed semi was around £3000 so £1000 was a huge price for a model! If you have not already seen it there is a RC Bookcase website with many old RC magazines to download free including RCME from the 1960's.

I have had something similar happen on two new models recently - in both cases pulling the throttle trim lever to nothing and then operating the sequence of unplugging, connecting up and operating throttle to maximum then minimum a couple of times eventually cause the right tones to be played and it worked. Took several goes and the attention of the most experienced club members (forum members actually -thanks chaps ) )before we got the sequence right. Eventually it will work if the ESC is not a dud. One of my problems was the model was set up on Futaba and then a Spektrum Rx was used - Futaba needs the thottle reversed compared to Spektrum if I remember correctly. And of course the failsafe setting procedure might be different. The order in which this is all done seems critical and once we got it to work I couldn't remember what everybody actually did!

Jonny, A common way to centralise the front disc is to make a scrap ply disc to mount on the prop adaptor with a spacer to allow prop clearance. Maybe your model has too little prop clearance as shown in your photo.? The nuts could be released from inside the fuselage so the motor could be removed downwards if the front disc has a slot in the bottom to clear shaft. Motor then comes out complete with all bolts. You might also look at the 'keyhole slot ' removable cowl fixing used in many of Peter Millers recent designs ( such as Miss Sizzle here on the forum and in free RCME plans of recent years) Might work even in the tight cowl on your model.

It would seem that what you could do is to build a 'shed' inside the gararge to make a cosy workshop area and therefore avoid altering the roof in any way. Similar perhaps to the way offices are partitioned off to make individual offices. May be worth considering what the minimum space is needed for building in the cold weather and relying on the larger garage for assembly, storage and DIY projects. The area at front above the doors has brick piers adjacent and might support a shelf to store fuselages and wings without going into the roof area. An otherwise unused area to safely store lightweight items. I have to say that as one gets old you feel the cold more ( don't ask me how I know this!) and building models in the house is a lot nicer than in a garage. It might mean having two sets of tools ( house set plus garage set ) but if you can scrounge a spare room it might be more productive and certainly nicer than going outdoors to the garage in winter. Saves on heating, more theft proof and tools don't rust.

Lots of good info - I reckon Ernie is right, I use a bedroom to work in and garage for dirty work and storage. Using the brick walls for the shelves will avoid problems fixing to partitions! Either way I strongly suggest you leave half the garage for a car as in future car insurers might force you to garage your car or face huge premiums. Also leaves a large space to use for model assembly etc by using a movable bench in the middle of floor. It might also be convenient to fit a folding gateleg bench in the car garage for occasional use ( there is an old Record Tools plan for this - top is hinged upwards onto wall while gatelegs swing out from wall when needed. Takes up just 3 inches of space when folded) The car garage should be on the cold side - North/East. If you have a semi detached garage that would be the warmer side. Consider putting a greenhouse onto the wall where the inner workshop is instead of insulating inside. A proper woodwork bench is highly desirable - one with inset front vice also inset end vice with 'dog' on top to line up with socket for 'dogs' along whole length. See 'The Workbench Book ' by Scott Landis published by Collins years ago. Also his Workshop book. My garage has a 8ft by 12 ft plasterboard partition which is almost 4 inches thick. ( 3 inch studs plus 2 thickness plasterboard.) One very important thing to remember ( I didn't the first time! ) is to ensure ALL the studding is exactly the same thickness and dead straight so that the board all lays flat. Just a mm or two out is too much. Plasterboard in partly integral garage has not got damp in 30 years but in any case OSB will suffer even more with damp and is harder to replace.