kc

SLEC used to supply 2BA wing bolts and so it could well be 2 BA. The wing bolts are oten not vertical but slanted to allow the bolt head to be 'parallel' to the wing surface, the wing bolt plate is then also slanted to be at 90 degrees to the bolt.

I tend to agree with Brian's explanation but I would add two other items that could affect it would be the spar that holds the hinges or the servo mounts may have moved. If servo mounts are both fitted to the same spar they could both move. Holding the ailerons whilst operating aileron stick might tell if some internal servo mount movement occurs.

With Futaba which does not have ' Model Match' it's posible to fly with the wrong model memory - so that's a thing to check.........

If both are drooped then with 2 separate servos then it must be in the Tx memory as long as the hinges and both TE hinge spars have not moved ( aileron looks a bit low on the part nearest camera compared to inner section) I suppose it's possible both servo mounts have loosened if they are fitted to the same spar.

My first thought was if it's just one central servo then this had failed in some way. Or the aileron horn had come loose or servo has come loose. But if it's two servos then I would look into the Tx memory to see if some mix had been set and inadvertantly been switched in whilst recovering model.

Only just seen this. I am surprised nobody else has pointed out that the old Solartrim instructions gave measurements and even compass construction details so you can cut any insignia yourself. Details of the Maltese Cross are there with measurements for radius that can be scaled to any size. It's online here. Cut the crosses yourself from film or the vinyl self adhesive stuff if you cannot get Solartrim. If you have not seen the Solarfilm video then it's here online or maybe the DVD is available still - says it's £2.99 and worth every penny to have as future reference.

I also bought a 1600 without motor - I found that a Propdrive 2830 1100kv fitted and had the shaft coming out the correct end for mounting into the plastic fuselage. Note that the model does not use a 'cross' mount but bolts direct into nose with a steel and a wood disc. I discovered that the motor screws are hard to insert into the motor deep in the fus and that the answer was to insert two long M3 rods ( normal M3 control link rods ) thro the nose and into the hatch area , screw into motor casing and draw up into position. Then insert the other two bolts into motor, release the two long rods and insert 2 more M3 bolts. I have not flown the model yet, so don't know what prop size is needed but it needs to be a folding prop with adaptor to fit shaft -3.175 mm shaft on that Propdrve motor.

There is another thread with info on the 1600 Phoenix. Also a thread on the 2000 version. I think there was an article in RCME not long ago which gave details of the club competition using the 1600 which specified a particular motor - David Ashby's club I think -

Looking again at the Ben Buckle small plan which is 50 inch span for glow, it may be a quite different model to the one in your photo which seems to be the Sarik electric plan version with only 40 inch span with a somewhat shorter fuselage proportion. Ben Buckle plan seems 2.3 times chord to rudder line ( not 1.9 times ) so the rib template might be for one plan but not the same as the other version.

Frankly it's not really worth drawing up your own plan as the plan only seem to be about £6. plus postage. If your home drawn plan is not quite right and you waste a couple of sheets of balsa it's dearer! Much quicker to build from a ready made plan than work out the unknown details.

you could measure from the photo or in this case off the photo on the computer screen and it seems to be 1.9 times the wing chord to the fin/ rudder joint or 1.4 times chord to the tailplane LE at fuselage. I excluded the wing tip protrusion or winglet from my calculation .

Why did the model get in the skip? Could it be oil soaked or badly constructed -warped wings or banana shape fuselage? Worth checking before putting too much effort into a basket case job.

I see that there is another thread on restoring this skip find and that others have provided even more comprehensive sources of plans for the Junior 60. Perhaps the Moderators should close this thread and divert attention to the 'Junior 60 salvaged thread'

Ben Buckle versions are here while the older narrow fuselage plan is on Outerzone. Why did the model get in the skip? Could it be oil soaked or badly constructed -warped wings or banana shape fuselage? Worth checking before putting too much effort into a basket case job.

It would be a good idea to find which plan has been used to build the model. Different original plans show 2 widths of fuselage and these plans have often been modified for RC by Ben Buckle Plans etc. Also some people still use the old method of rubber bands over the dowels to retain U/C while for Rc many prefer glued on tailplanes. Put a picture of your model on here and no doubt you will get some advice on how to procede.