kc

I like this LE method - My diagram shows the false leading edge in black and the original LE in blue with sheeting over the top.

I cannot quite see it on Brian's plan but from the photos it appears that he may have fitted the LE sheeting OVER the LE and fitted a 'false' LE over the front. That way seems easier and better. Wing ribs need to be cut to a suitable length for this of course. Wing bolts are cheaper than rubber bands which don't last long in sunlight. I like the way Peter Miller fitted the wing dowel - he used one central dowel slotted into a thick central rib ( 1/4 inch to match dowel ) and reinforced with half ribs back to the spar. ( see any of his free plans in RCME in recent years ) Having just 1 dowel makes it easier to file the hole in the fuselage to make the wing fit perfectly. When you draw up your own plan then you can use all the best ideas that suit!

RR's balsa Galaxy Escort wing looks as though it will cost about £35 in balsa ( at Balsa Cabin prices ) depending on exact size needed, so maybe £71 for a new wing is not too bad if it's also film covered! Same for Trainer 40 balsa wings. Depending on size just the aileron balsa may cost £12. 56 -60 inch wings waste a fair bit if made from 36 or 48 inch balsa but the offcuts eventually get used if you build enough. Brian - is your dihedral brace/wing joiner 1/8 balsa or ply? Would balsa be enough for a heavy ARTF fuselage or would 1/16 birch ply be better?

Size you propose seem OK but I suggest 1/4 spruce instead of 5/16 balsa. Wingtip shapes don't seem to make much difference and everyone ends up with slightly different dihedral when they build wings. Building a wing to a proven design might be safer. Consider the wing from Trainer 40 from Outerzone or the other variations of Joe Bridi trainers there. Either reshape your fuselage to the wing profile or change wing profile to suit your fuselage - won't make too much difference with a trainer. Big thing is sufficient strength in spar centre section doubler. It might be interesting to download that plan &see how near the Boomerang is to the classic trainers of the past - those with symmetrical section like RCM Trainer, Trainer 40 , HiBoy etc etc........ Aileron sizes seem to be somewhat larger nowadays so you might change that. I wonder if the rudder movement- 15mm -shown in that manual you referenced is actually correct. Doesn't seem much at 15mm each way. However it might be easier to search for a spare Boomerang wing - somebody must have a spare wing or a fuel soaked plane with a good wing - ask around.

Welcome Carl - you have to get used to the sense of humour of some members!

No can't help you there except to say that custom cars,race cars etc use rubber toggles to hold bonnets etc in place - much too large for most models though. Most people use Velcro straps. However an alternative type of Lipo retention is shown on the Chris Foss website - electric conversions- where the Lipos use cable ties to fix to ply plate which is then fixed with a wing bolt one end and a ply tongue the other. Seems practical especially for inserting from underneath to electrify Wot4 etc. Worth looking at perhaps?

Vapex Instant ( from The Component Shop ) also seem very good as low self discharge - I use them in a digital cameras so they are always available working whenever needed -and a fair bit cheaper than Eneloop.

Chris, this could be a Bi Fly. The ad says they are a private seller but as similar adverts appear all the time i reckon they may be a dealer, not just an enthusiast. The address must be very near me yet none of my clubmates seem to know who they are and nobody I know has bought from them despite adverts for many months.......... I seem to remember the same photo may have been there around Christmas time! Check out their other models - doesn't tempt me at those prices even though it's local. If you really need one it may be worth looking into........

Presumably the weather forecast caused this cancellation?

Well nobody has replied so far -perhaps it would be better to start a new thread headed with 'Tiger Moth by Peter Rake' or something similar to attract attention. Without seeing the plan it is difficult to offer suggestions, so perhaps post a photo of that section of your plan? But you might look at the way that Chris Foss suggest his Wot4 and Uno Wot can be electrified - Lipo fitted to a ply tray inserted from below and held with a bolt. A biplane might need to reverse the tray so the 'tongue'goes aft to clear the lower wing. This idea could be utilised with many other plans.

Lack of those items in menu shows it's a later version to comply with EU regulations.

Sorry Andy but I have never had pinholes crumble on plasterboard! It even takes screws if needed ( I hold down wing spars with screws ) It's much cheaper and easier to buy than Sundeala. But each to his own of course......

I have found that plasterboard stored vertically ( well almost just a few degrees off to lean against a wall ) stays flat, so no need to fix to MDF or anything. It is wood etc that changes with humidity and warps not plasterboard! If plasterboard is flat to start with then it should remain flat if stored vertically. A few pieces of different sizes for various items is handy. Cheap enough to scrap if anything goes wrong. A 4ft x 15 inches piece of 10mm plywood stored vertically indoors or in a dry garage since 1973 is still flat enough to be used for building, while new sheets of ply of all types and thickness stored alongside have warped quite a lot. It all seems to be down to whether the wood is at the correct moisture level to start with. Keeping the wood in the same humidity level is important - bringing wood into a centrally heated house if it's been in a damp garage is going to cause a problem. Just use plasterboard!

Construction seems to be proceding quickly. I reckon that if you are going to fit electric motor then you probably will need to fit the elec motor bulkhead further forward and cut a hole in existing F1 for the Lipo to also fit well forward. Otherwise lots of lead may be required as it seems to be a short nose style. I suggest a trial balance before much more work on the fuselage - just a 'lash up' with parts in their position to see if balance can be achieved without lead. An elec motor and Lipo may well weigh much the same as a glow but the weight is all in the Lipo which tends to sit well back. Glow motors have the heavy bearings and steel crankshaft at the very front which allows short noses. You may well need to fit the elec motor 2 to 3 or even 4 inches further forward to avoid lead. The model looks rather similar to a Super 60 in style and would probably fly well on just the same electric setup.

I see that Vortex Vacform do a canopy that will fit an Acrowot cost is £12

Because of the shaping of the top deck block models may vary a little but the engine centreline dimension on my model is 2 and one 16th inch down from top of bulkhead and 2 inches up from base - i.e almost central. Also central left and right. My model is being converted for electric ( built for glow but unflown ) fuselage is extended forward 5.5 inches and has now had a large hole cut in the front bulkhead to allow the Lipo to go thro bulkhead to achieve balance with 4S 3000 lipo and hopefully no lead. Cutting big enough hole in the 5/16th bulkhead ( 1/4 ply plus 1/16 shaped ply ) is a pain- done with a Bosch vibrating hand held saw whilst model was bolted to a piece of 2inch by 1 softwood held in a B&D Workmate which also supported tail of model. This kept hands entirely behind the saw! Tricky and it would be easier to cut the whole bulkhead and triangle reinforcement off and then extend the fuselage sides forward about 5.5 inches for new bulkhead for 3548 electric motor. A former will be needed to replace old bulkhead to keep fuselahge shape. I didn't have a plastic cowl but built a replica from balsa - I kept drawings of the components somewhere but it was a lot of work. Canopy needs the plastic rear shroud to look right as an Acrowot but it will be easier to fit a different canopy and look different. Experience with converting various models to electric has shown that to replace a .40 glow with a 3536/3542/3548 electric motor and 4S3000 the fuselage needs extending 5 to 6 inches for new bulkhead and the lipo needs to go partly thro old bulkhead by an inch or so to balance without lead.

If anything goes wrong it's always very important to investigate immediately to try to find the cause - without changing anything. Once anything has been disconnected or changed the opportunity is lost. If possible the club safety officer or another experienced person should check with you as soon as the model is returned to the pits. ( should be a club rule perhaps? ) In this case we don't have enough info -i.c or electric?, Rx make, whether model has been changed since last flight etc. However when 2 different models with 2 different Tx and 2 different Rx have the same fault then the common factors need to be considered - and the obvious common factor is the operator! Maybe some setting has been mis-set in both cases - failsafe, throttle cut, maybe still in range check mode, still in binding mode, etc etc. Failsafe setting seems most likely as others have said but failsafe setting method depends on Rx make - Lemon Rx for Spektrum can be set differently to genuine SpektrumRx. The common factor might be something else- maybe the neckstrap causes the throttle stick to catch something, Rx battery,Tx battery, loose cells, duff battery charger, etc but if you don't find the fault you cannot correct it and learn from the problem. Throwing the Tx away won't help and it might be 'rescued' from the bin by someone else and ending up on Ebay for some unsuspecting newcomer ........

The World needs printed content because online stuff can disappear instantly - many Modelflying threads have been 'mutilated' by former members their having postings removed when they left ( seems to have been their choice! ) so are often unreadable now. Online plan collections have disappeared instantly. The digital RCME and the forum exists because of the printed magazine. We need printed magazines and books.

I cannot see many aeromodellers buying a magazine half full of model boats! And I suppose the same would apply to boaters who wouldn't be interested in the aero stuff! Lets put a stop to that idea right away if we wouldn't buy that sort of magazine.

My copy seems to be of the same quality as usual ....with perhaps the Tx photos not quite up to the rest. Perhaps copies varied? Anyway I think the Fundroid article and plan looks interesting.

You will have to work out how you can start a glow motor in this model- how do you access the prop? Electric would be easier. This is probably the most impossible scale model to build - at least 1 very experienced builder ( on this forum years back ) seems to have given up due to the problems.....

The type of u/c shown in the photo is often called a torque rod u/c as the horizontal section should twist slightly to provide springing- but it will only work like that if the vertical part is restrained. Worth checking the fuselage holds the vertical part well.

It seems nobody has .....so far.... but it looks an attractive kit from a British maker and at a good price. Their website shows the plan and building instructions so you can see them before you buy.

I also had a One Time Passcode from Microsoft last week which was unexpected and un-wanted - then the e-mail address I use for this forum suddenly yesterday failed to show any recent emails in my inbox. Only shows emails up to 4 years ago and nothing more recent! But this is a BT internet email address not Microsoft. I still have to sort this out.......

If you prefer to work in balsa -like most of us- take a look at Mini Waste Wings to see a more economical way to build. Might be useful for your design or might give ideas. Just fitting the wing ribs into the sheet with 'tails' interleaved even if the grain is not absolutely correct might save an awful lot of expensive balsa. Worth planning balsa use well before cutting to achieve most economical use. You could also consider whether any parts could be made from liteply.