Shaun Walsh

My rule of thumb is: Aliphatic for wood to wood where slow cure is desirable. Superphatic if you want a thin adhesive that will wick into a tight joint or to bond wood and carbon fibre. CA for a fast joint with tight clearances.

Is this any use? https://lemon-rx.com/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=4

In terms of weight, add about 1Kg to the airframe weight (or more if you choose a bigger battery), plus whatever lead is required to adjust the CoG. If it will fit, I would rather have a bigger, heavier battery than add lead to get the CoG right. Regarding the use of a stand alone UBEC, that's down to personal choice. I usually rely on the ESC's built in BEC and choose an ESC with a BEC capable of delivering a good current to minimise the chance of brown out. The ESC I linked to can deliver 8A continuous, 20A burst which should be ample.

And if you can build it with a 1.2mm wing span weighing minus 6.5lbs, we would all like to see a build log please!😁

A 4Ah 6s or larger battery should give acceptable flight times.

And don't forget that you will need a watt meter to check the current draw to optimise the prop size.

Assuming the HP61 provides about 1.3hp, 1000w and you will be using a 6s battery then you need a motor/esc capable of handling approx 45 to 50 Amps at full throttle. I have installed this esc in a Brugger Colibri with a motor pulling 58A at WOT. https://www.modelshopleeds.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?keywords=Hobbywing 80a&sort=1a&products_id=77984 Regarding a motor, I like 4-Max motors, reasonably priced, well made and spare bearings and shafts available. Something like this would be appropriate. https://www.4-max.co.uk/po-5055-500.html You may want a higher kv motor if you want to run a smaller prop, see the 4-max website for options.

Easier to have a receiver and two satellites, 6 aerials covering all axes in opposing directions.

"A fist full of lipos" A little known film by Clint Eastwood.

One horizontal one vertical ideally outside the fuselage but not essential, just keep them away from carbon fibre parts.

Thin crustaceous or stuffed crustaceous?

Must be a pebbleroni pizza.

https://www.4-max.co.uk/po-3535-870.html

I think that "top spews" will only apply to fast and very erratic drivers when they have just had a mackerel vindaloo.

I usually buy cars that are 3 or 4 years old so have yet to experience the more recent developments in driving "aids", however when faced with a choice of two different specs of the same car when we last changed a car I opted for the one with the fewest driver aids on the basis that there was a lot less to go wrong. However I do appreciate the inclusion of Android Auto as it means I can just plug the phone into the car and and stick it in a convenient cubby hole. My wife has an earlier version of the same car which comes with auto wipers (reasonably useful as they vary the speed depending upon how heavily it rains) and auto lights which I detest, fortunately you can turn them off. I am quite capable of determining when I need lights on. There is a junction near my house which is very close to a railway bridge and on 3 occasions the vehicle going under the railway bridge has turned its lights on and the driver of the vehicle turning out of the junction has assumed that the other driver has flashed to let him out nearly causing an accident. And yes I do know that you shouldn't interpret a flash of the headlamps as anything other than a warning of approach. My 53 year old VW has no driver aids whatsoever, even the indicators assume that the driver knows which way they want to turn so what's the point having lights inside the car that flash in the same direction as the ones outside, a single light will suffice that just shows that the indicators are in use. It does, however, have a safety feature that stops you driving into the back of other vehicles........ 8 gallons of petrol stored just above your feet!