Jonathan M

Great job. Out of interest what did the red bombs and ice-creams stand for?

Well done for making these available 👍🏻 I have control throw data for your original Gangster, will dig these out later.

Someone needs to tell that 190 pilot that the war's over! 🤣

I'm sure there are thousands of unused ones out there. If you can't find someone's to borrow, then a Wanted Ad here might yield a result.

Just bought this from Jim. Sourced muffler from Hobby Plastics (Macgregor's retail outlet) and pipe from a Greek drone retailer (of all places!). Saito's instructions state to use fuel with "synthetic oil with 10~20% nitro methane content". My standard fuel is Southern Modelcraft Laser 5, so happily no caster (sorry Paul!), but would this engine really need 10-20 nitro to run sweetly?

Fascinating build to watch - and fabulous attention to detail!

If ailerons were previously 2-3mm up, then this suggests past (owner's) problems, perhaps with twist in one or both wings? Do you have a wing incidence meter? If so then get methodical (with ailerons flush to root chord), taking readings at root-chord, mid-span and tip of each wing, six in total. The whole wing should ideally have an incidence of something like 0.5° positive to the fuselage datum line. After this static examination, clamp or weight one wing down on a table and examine the torsional and rigidity of the free wing, then swap sides and compare the two. It might be that something is going awry under dynamic loads?

@Gee Bee You can always contact Mick Reeves directly. He still produces the original Gangster 63 in batches, so can surely provide this for you. https://www.mickreevesmodels.co.uk/

Look here http://www.ukcaa.org.uk/Default.aspx and https://www.facebook.com/groups/1184985531554843/

Buy a covering iron, and just iron it back down. If it lifts again later, then buy a pot of Covergrip from Deluxe Materials - simple to paint on (as fresh adhesive), let dry, iron down. The tip of a domestic iron will work, but don't do it too hot or the film will melt and/or the adhesive will run out and smear. For example, when applying Oracover the film is first tacked down at just 90° and then tightened at 130°, for stretching over compound curves you can go up to 150°. A hairdryer or hot-air gun (very carefully and not too close!) can be used to tighten film that has gone slack over open structures, but it won't work for pressing lifted edges back down.

It doesn't leave you with one choice - there's Southern Modelcraft as well.

Can one just turn up on the day, or have to buy an advance ticket?

Here's me fiddling with the needle and compression on my 0.55 a few years ago: https://vimeo.com/1081874884?share=copy#t=0 I really ought to build a suitable FF model for it one day...!

The online instructions here https://www.eifflaender.com/engine-instructions are exactly the same as the printed ones in the box, the same for all their engines. I have a 0.55cc PAW from new and got it running fine just from the instructions. Normal needle valve setting is 2-3 turns open. Compression screw: if too little compression the prop will flick easily over and over, if too much you'll get hydraulic lock when fuel in there, you'll soon find the sweet-spot.

I agree with JD8. Read the instructions and go from there, you'll soon get the hang of it. P.A.W. used to have a video on their website which showed exactly how to set up and tune their 0.55cc engine (if I recall correctly), but it's down at the moment: https://www.eifflaender.com/videos There are however various other videos on YouTube...