Terence Moore
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Everything posted by Terence Moore
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Thanks for the info Bill. I will probably start with the 14oz as I can pack around that better with vibration absorbing foam, set the motor & fuel flow for reliable operation, and if the run time is insuffiecient address that problem then. Terry
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My wife refers to it as wood whittling ......
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And the front of the canopy block, with an inlet hole for cooling air. Examination of completed "Bootleggers" by others shows lots of variations on this, some not having any inlet at all, others almost complete aperture between back of firewall and front of canopy.
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Starting to shape up the pipe tunnel leaving plenty of airspace around the tuned pipe to allow a through put of air for cooling.
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sorry for the typo's
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Question for the engine experts:- I can comfartably fit a Kavan 14oz tank, and insulate, or squeez in a Dubro 16oz. but with hardly any foam packinf. with the K&B 100 r/e propped for 9k (or thereabouts) on a fixed length pipe....... will 14oz. give a reasonable flight time ( I don't fly at constant full throttle) Thanks in anticipation
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Then the balsa sheet and block canopy is framed up. This will be carved to approximate profile, the tunnel sides also shaped, before joining the two structures together.
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The next stage is to fit the sides to the pipe tunnel (seperated by cling film, as the whole structure is removeable.
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The original kit for this model had a fibreglass fuselage and canopy/pipe tunnel. Steve has done a good job of interpreting the shape in balsa wood and ply. The first stage of shaping the top is to block out around the engine bay.
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Ever wanted to get into or improve your aerobatics?
Terence Moore replied to Peter Jenkins's topic in In The Air
Steve (Coman) You are a mere youngster sir. At the age of 68 1/2 I am still trying to improve my aerobatic flying.........some club members would suggest not before time. However I find practising new manoevres on the sim first untill the control inputs become automatic ( slow & point rolls, knife edge.........opposite riudder etc) helps when doing it for real. I average about 100 flights per year, but don't fly heli's but do instruct/examine , so likewise would benefit from a more concentrated period with the same model. Currently Monolg 70 and retro aerobatic "Revenger" 2 very different aircraft -
Starting the installation of the engine, tuned pipe, and fuel tank next
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And finally, the plate can be cut to clear the wheel (2" diameter) with a wider hole to allow the steering pushrod to pass clear of the unit
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The retract unit can then be mounted on to a ply plate. I used 1.4" birch ply which is then screwed to the horizontal rails. This level of sturdiness is needed.......more traditional mounting to the rear of a firewall is much stronger, therefore the need to beef up.
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Finally received the nose leg and axle. There is a novel slotted and rotating metal arm to which the steering pushrod is connected, but on this and my "Revenger" I had to change it to the other side. Great care is needed as the thin rod along which it rotates is well and truly screwed tight. Essential to have the correct screw driver. Also the unit is mounted horizontally, and not to the back of the firewall, like air retracts etc. Therefore rails have to be epoxied to the fuselage sides.
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Just when things were progressing nicely an avoidable delay. I bought an unused set of main gear e-flite retracts from a fellow club mate......no problems, buy the nosegear seperate. However a lesson learned.... when ordering the replacement nose gear it is just that! The retract unit only, so had to then order the noseleg. Fine, but again didn't read the web site properly, THE NOSELEG DOES NOT INCLUDE THE AXLE!!!!!!. My fault entirely, but frustrates the progress of the fus!!!
