Cuban8
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Posts posted by Cuban8
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I'm lucky to be within 15 minutes of my local field that I tend to use during the week (15 mile round trip), although I do have an hour's drive to my preferred weekend venue. So that's a lttle under a gallon of diesel either way or around twelve quid's worth of fuel. Transport costs are rarely considered when we add up the money spent on the hobby and for myself represents several hundred pounds annually......... makes me laugh when people moan about BMFA costs or a few quid added to club subs.
K.
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You're going to have to firstly find the position of the average chord of one wing half. This can be found by calculation, scale drawing or some CG finders will do it for you. If your model is a true delta and you're a bit unsure, try this method - it's a bit crude but I've used it myself in the past and it'll give you a reasonable starting point.
Measure and note the root chord (millimetres are easiest), take and note further measurements of chord at 20mm intervals until you get to the tip. Add up all the numbers and then divide the total by the number of chord measurements taken. The figure you have will be a fair approximation of the average chord of the wing half..Find this chord dimension on the wing half and mark from LE to TE with masking tape. Say you have an average chord figure of 300mm - find the quarter chord position back from the LE which in this case will be 75mm.Mark this point on the tape. Project this point onto the fuz side to give you CG. A quarter chord CG is very safe and in all probability a figure of 30%-35% will be ok after flight testing. Keep elevator movement low at first with plenty of expo if your tranny gives it.
Hope this helps.
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Nice job but please refer to aerofoils and not airfoils, likewise aeroplanes and not airplanes. Don't get me going on horizontal / vertical stabilisers instead of tailplane and fin!!!!!
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Posted by kc on 14/04/2013 19:10:06:
Whatever our memories what this thread proves is that if this forum is typical then nobody is going to invest much in modelling business for a long term investment unless there is much more interest from youngsters quite soon! The BMFA had better think about downsizing it's operations too if they dont get more younger members...........unless the NHS enables us to live for ever!
Really don't agree with the youngsters point. Aeromodelling has changed and is now very attractive to thirty or forty somethings who have got bored with computer games etc. Some teenagers will become involved if the bug bites, but lets encourage any and everyone who might show an interest regardlesss of age. Kids won't find playing with a simple chuck glider or sleek streak as we used to, very exiting, when the shops and internet are full of tasty ARTF warbirds etc.... the only problem is money and the lack of expertise to put it all together..
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I belong to two clubs, each with over a hundred members, so the number of people taking part in the hobby still appears to be OK. Naturally, the majority of those members are over 40 as is shown by the pole taken here......quite frankly it's not a problem if the hobby is grey or greying, so long as we continue to get new flyers regardless of age! Yes, it would be nice to see more younger people taking up the hobby, but can you wonder at their reluctance when what we have to offer really doesn't compare favourably with the comfort of a Play Station or Xbox in a warm bedroom? I wonder how many of us would be where we are today if we had the technological distractions of 2013 in 1963? Don't get me wrong, I use modern technology where I feel I benefit from it, and forty years in industry has meant that I've needed to keep abreast of many new developments, but can we honestly be surprised at many youngster's lack of interest in aeromodelling, given the commitment that it requires versus the world of gaming?
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Too cold and muddy at the moment, indoor only since last December.
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Having been membership secretary for a fairly large club (120-130 members) for the last thirteen years, I can certainly say that our experience confirms the 'greying' of the membership. We currently have only four (under 18) junior members, which is the lowest number of youngsters on our books for several years. I don't keep a record of members ages, but I'd estimate the highest proportion of members are in the over 50 age bracket, with a reduction of ages being represented down to only a few in their twenties. A third of the membership, I'd guess, are retired and are able to fly during the week!
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Don't spend a penny on any gear until you've visted a local club for guidance. Most clubs have their own ways of doing things and models and equipment that they prefer, so take the advice of one of their instructors (avoid the club know alls though) and follow their advice.
Good luck.
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As far as I can remember, my first experience of model aircraft would be about 1964 at seven or eight years of age. I loved the 'Valiant ' comic with Captain Hurricane, The Steel Claw etc and amongst the regular free gifts that used to be given away was 'Ranger Redwing's Flying Model Aeroplane'. Made out of cardboard with a rubber motor and stamped aluminium propeller., it came in bits over several weeks. Don't remember it working, but it sparked something that's still going strong.
Kev.
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Posted by Erfolg on 16/12/2012 16:11:14:
I have suspected that some of the issue with respect to Lipos and full storage revolve around the relationship of charge voltage and temperature.
I have the impression that charging a Lipo to 4.2V, when cold say 0 degree, will have the effect of the cells voltage going beyond 4.2v when in a higher temperature, say 20 degrees. As the chemistry of the Lipo does not allow this, the result is some damage to the cells chemical structure.
I do not know this is fact, just a conjecture I have reached, from reading some articles.
Store my Lipos in a very cold (but dry) garage never noticed the alleged voltage change or any deterioration. Aways bring the packs up to room temp if they've been soaking at near 0C though. Also worth keeping them warm in freezing temps over the field - I put a couple of the click type hand warmers in their box - keeps their performance up to scratch.
Edited By kevin goodwin on 16/12/2012 19:25:21
Edited By kevin goodwin on 16/12/2012 19:26:33
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I haven't seen any ill effects of leaving Lipos fully charged. My 6S packs are stored fully topped up and they still perform well after 2 years and are well used during the summer.( I always label my packs with their first use date from new.).
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Posted by Dylan Reynolds on 10/12/2012 21:36:36:
Really? this doesn't bnother anyone? if you went into your local LMS and made a purchase and handed over your card, would you not be a bit miffed if he said "thats another £10 please"
Compared to HK's prices, that's what they do anyway LOL.
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Flicked through the latest issue in WHS this morning.................sorry , but nothing therein to convince me to part with over four quid for it.
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I tend to go out only on good days now until the spring. Not much fun getting cold and muddy this time of the year........now if we had a nice warm clubhouse to thaw out in after a flight, drink tea in and chew the fat, then that would be a different matter!
C8
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Have used the SM Services unit on my YT Spitfire with ASP 120 FS for two seasons now. Set to activate at 1/4 throttle so only comes into play at tick-over or when throttled back for landings etc hence minimal charge from battery taken. Nice simple unit that does the job perfectly.......... and as a retired electronics engineer, the very reasonable price makes it hardly worth the bother of buying the components and constructing one for myself!
Not familiar with the SHM unit, but I'd guess that essentially, it acts as a constant current source that reacts to the small change in the plug element's resistance with heat.
C8
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Sorry if I've not been clear, but what I'm asking is if on inspecting the contents of the box in front of the HK staff at their depot, you are presented with a product that is damaged/badly built/ or otherwise unacceptable.
I don't question whether HK's staff are unreasonable (i'm sure that they are not) but the procedures they have been ordered to follow and how well any problems can be rectified if they are faced with the above scenario
. As a matter of interest, my friend's Sbach came in an undamaged box and the faults only came to light after it was opened at home. Fuselage formers had been crushed with debris loose in the fuz and the cowl was of very poor manufacture (amongst several other issues) so it seems likely that the item was packed that way in the factory.
Edited By kevin goodwin on 14/09/2012 10:46:29
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So, what happens when you go to pick up your new 50cc Sbach, open the box in front of the staff and find that it's smashed to hell???
Options...... be given another model from stock?.........have the busted parts swapped from another box?........be told that a ticket will have to be opened with CS and there's nothing they can do themselves to help? (got a funny feeling that it'll be option 3 but I'm very happy to be proved wrong)
A friend of mine had one of these models delivered from the UK WH that was indeed a mess and is still trying to get the problem resolved after many weeks.
To be fair Scott C has only just been made aware of the issue so with a bit of luck things will be sorted. Just keep in mind that despite what may have been suggested, experience says that HK UK are not too forthcoming with following UK mail order legislation (which they don't have to of course,as the purchase was made in Hong Kong!) so as with betting on the horses, never spend more than you can comfortably afford to lose!
C8 HK Platinum member.
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Posted by Engine Doctor on 15/11/2011 10:06:12:
This is a bit off topic but it is relevant .Your right about the ASP/SC's FS 120's being down on power . A Club mate bought Three FS SC's, 2x 70's and a 90 from a well known supplier in a sale and only one had good compression and run properly with a reliable tick over/idle. Occasionally you will find one with good compession and therefore a good power output but most have at best a soft/poor compression and struggle with a 15 x 8 .If your engine has low comp when warm return it while in warranty . Dont be put off by the old "it needs more running in " or "they develop the compression when they fire" fob off .Get your money back and buy a proper engine OS or YS . I currently have a SC 120 and a 180 ,both came second hand so I knew they had decent comp but they are still down on the OS or YS Engines power .The OS ad YS will spin the larger props with ease, wont dead stick (when set up correctly) and last longer. The prop choice is also dependant on the type of model and style of flying, so choose accordingly.
If you want to pay over double the price for 25% more power, then the OS comes as an expensive option. I've had half a dozen ASP FS motors of various sizes over the years and found them to be excellent value when correctly handled and matched to an airframe.Currently have a 120 in a 14lb YT Spitfire and the combination works well. All the ASPs require a lengthy period of running in before they give of their best, the Spit's motor has had about an hour of air time (still running quite rich) after the normal hour or so of short ground runs. It gets better with every flight and I don't expect peak performance until another couple of hours of air time. The secret is to gradually lean the mixture a click at a time after every 20 minutes of running so the motor gets a chance to bed in correctly without overheating, just don't over do things and when the motor can hold a brief period of max revs, pull the mixture back by 1/8 turn and all will be well.
Ok, it's a bit of a faff and a lot of operators don't have the inclination to wait, but with care these motors will return good & reliable performance.C8
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Posted by Piers Bowlan on 31/07/2012 10:59:11:
XT60s are the new kid on the block so I doubt many will be using those at present unless they are new to electric flight. I quite like them but I have melted one or two when soldering. I don't seem to have the same trouble with Deans. Clearly my technique needs more work!
Piers
Make sure that you have two connectors pushed together when you solder - sinks the heat away and keeps the terminals aligned if you overdo it a bit with the iron.
Kev.
Edited By kevin goodwin on 08/08/2012 00:23:14
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Posted by Martin Harris on 10/07/2012 14:28:13:
Don't want to put too much of a dampener on everyone's enthusiasm, but aren't we meant to maintain visual contact (unaided) with our models?
4.2.2 Article 166 – Small unmanned aircraft
(3) The person in charge of a small unmanned aircraft must maintain direct, unaided
visual contact with the aircraft sufficient to monitor its flight path in relation to
other aircraft, persons, vehicles, vessels and structures for the purpose of
avoiding collisions.I don't think we should be seen to actively encourage contraventions of the ANO on a public forum!
Yawn!
C8
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Never use a neck strap either for F/W or helis (thumbs on sticks for both). Find a neck strap distracting and have known tranny switches to be inadvertantly switched when tangled by the strap. Much prefer to be able to put the tranny down without all the bother. Each to their own though!
C8
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Many thanks for the suggestions. I think I'll go with the plasterboard attached to my flat work top.
Cheers.
Kevin.
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I need to put together a large (ish) building board of about 3'X6' and I'm wondering what would be the best way to provide a surface that is going to be able to take pins. Any suggestions on what works for you chaps please?
Thanks.
C8 -
Posted by synapsis on 27/05/2012 20:23:13:
Thanks Wingman for the reply, I don't nelive there is a power cable as there are fields all around and they have crops.
I will try what the test and see what happens. Today there where no problems and it only happens every once in awhile.
What a pain not knowing when it will happen again or the cause.
Are any other flyers getting these problems?
C8
Wongly reversed rudder
in Spektrum/JR
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Unlikely to be the tranny. Probably a glitch within the simulator software. Reset in the sim's reverse menu so it works correctly and see how it goes. Any further problems - then maybe a re-install might help.