Richard Wood
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Posts posted by Richard Wood
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Four hours to build a wing panel is quick work Pete - the knack hasn't been lost.
Building is indeed very therapeutic, I've just started building again after a few months
break - through apathy as much as anything in my case.
Hopefully you're on the road to recovery & the modelling is helping.
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Nicely done job & well executed cowl arrangement - often a tricky part with all balsa
electric models.
Planing & sanding a square box into a well shaped fuselage is a satisfying process
and the pile of balsa shavings looks familiar - but at least it's easier to clean up &
healthier than all that wood as balsa dust. Usually try to do the sanding part outside.
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Have a SLEC Coyote electric glider next in line to build - all round excellent quality kit.
Gratifying that there are still a few quality British builder's kits still around -
DB Sport & Scale another.Edited By Richard Wood on 28/02/2018 11:18:33
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Good progress Brian
. The veneered foam rear turtle deck is a great idea &
was common to the Scorpion - strong, light & keeps its shape.
I'd love to build a Hornet - just hope your lads haven't cleared out all of Pegasus Models'
stocks.
Edited By Richard Wood on 27/02/2018 09:05:14
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The Hornet looks very similar to the sadly no longer available Galaxy Scorpion.
I had an electric Scorpion which flew very well on a 4S setup with around 600W.
Cuban8's comment about 500W being a bit marginal is good advice.
Anyway, good luck with your Hornets.
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I used a very similar motor setup in a Wot4 & it had immense power reserves!
Good luck with the maiden.
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Hi John, It's many years since I used the technique but from what I remember
you can vary the thickness of the mix by how much talc is used with the dope.
It was good for filling the usual little cracks & 'less than perfect' joints in balsa.
I've found some household fillers are a bit too coarse for balsa.
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If you have some clear dope try mixing it with talcum powder to make a filler.
Works well if I remember.
Could also try mixing talc with PVA or Aliphatic resin instead of the dope. -
'Business model' , yep - milking customers out of as much as they can get away with
& serves 'em right for not shopping around.
No wonder insurance companies have a bad rep.They also try their tricks when you try to make a legitimate claim.
Chancers.Edited By Richard Wood on 03/08/2017 15:50:56
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Just one tip Graham - best not to use quick setting 5 min epoxy for wing joining
as you rarely have enough time to align & support the wing panels to satisfaction
before the epoxy starts to set & becomes unusable.
The 15-20 minute varieties are much better.
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DB designs are always good flyers. Good luck with it & let us know how it goes.
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I'm thinking about doing an electric Old Bill next or soon - had a nice set of precut wing
ribs from DB sport & Scale & plan for a while.
It's roughly Magnatilla size & I had great success with a 4260 / 600kV motor with
a 15" prop & 4S 4000mAH Lipo, so summat similar should suffice for an OB, but
lots of options here.Will have to check the plan for suitabilty but intend to do a scalloped wing TE.
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Posted by TIM Shaw on 07/07/2017 14:37:53:Posted by Richard Wood on 08/03/2016 08:59:47:
Hi Jack, One big advantage of wing mounted aileron servos is that it neatly gets
around an error in the design of the kit - the wing mounting bolts will foul the aileron
torque rods if it is built without modification. Perhaps this problem has been fixed
in latest kits.Edited By Richard Wood on 08/03/2016 09:01:13
I know this is an old thread but I wish I'd read it before I started putting mine together because I can absolutely confirm this little problem has NOT been fixed - I went for a single servo in the interests of originality and am now wishing I hadn't...
I was thinking a Thunder Tiger PRO 46 might be suitable, or might that be a tad too much?
Disappointing that they haven't sorted out that out yet.
On my 1st Bullet build - when it was too late to do much else, I resorted to installing
dowels in the fuse for rubber band wing fixing. 2nd build I moved the wing bolts back
to clear torque rods.
It'll live up to its name on a powerful .46! -
Good idea about the wing dowel reinforcement there Tim. Polystyrene foam wing cores
never give great confidence in being the ideal anchor for them, liberal use of epoxy or not.
Many people do tend to use metal u/c mounting bolts & an unfortunate sight after a heavy
landing is often a ripped out lower front fuselage with the u/c still firmly bolted to the
broken off ply mount.
Never personally had a failing nylon bolt in all but the heaviest 'arrival', which is why we use them.
Shaping a balsa fuse with razor plane & progressively finer grades of glasspaper is one
of the most enjoyable parts of building.Edited By Richard Wood on 05/07/2017 11:47:36
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Posted by John Emms - Puffin Models on 26/05/2017 11:24:45:Posted by Richard Wood on 26/05/2017 09:45:14:
Hopefully the Magnattila & Attila kits will be available again sometime soon.
I am told by Flair that Magnatilla kits are being prepared for production right now, with the Hannibal due to be ready by the end of the year.
That's great news.
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Good luck with your Magnattila, it's a great design for conversion.
I flew a 6lb one quite a lot a few years ago on 550W or so, It was a 4S setup but a
slow turning 15" prop was ideal.Hopefully the Magnattila & Attila kits will be available again sometime soon.
The Attila is particularly good.
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Edit - sorry Allan, wrong model!
Edited By Richard Wood on 05/04/2017 13:08:06
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Posted by Tony Bennett on 11/03/2017 21:55:43:
the two that i maiden'd today.
Tony B
Very smart Tony
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What's the one on the left?
Cheers.Edited By Richard Wood on 14/03/2017 10:26:38
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Hello Focae, good advice above. Solarfilm is a bit fussier about temperatures than some
other films. When applying it to a sheeted or solid surface such as fuselage have the iron at
100'C. If the iron is too hot the film will wrinkle when you try to put it on.
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I received a SLEC Coyote glider recently which is a superbly presented kit with top quality
parts & beautifully drawn full size plans. Looking forward to building it.
Also recently built a SLEC Sky40 which is also very good quality & have the Funfly on top
of the wanted list.
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Hi Phil,
You're very welcome to use the pictures, glad to help.I seem to remember being a little surprised when the transmitter kit arrived with
red parts - back in 1990 I think it was, but it does look good.
It was a great kit to assemble too.Cheers
RichardEdited By Richard Wood on 15/02/2017 07:46:05
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Hi Phil,
There are some photos of my PL7D in my Micron album.
Let me know if you need any more.
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Hi Phil,
I have a red PL7D transmitter in good condition I can photograph if you wish -
probably early next week if that's any help.
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Hi Tony,
I built a PB Bean a few years ago but I'm a bit ashamed to say I haven't yet flown it!
I attached the canopy with two screws, one at the front & another at the rear, into
pieces of dowel. Strips of Solartrim finish it off. It's quite secure.
Newbie Builder
in Traditional kits
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Hi TJ,
Some excellent suggestions so far. Another is the Chris Foss Wot 4 - although designed
for IC, electric conversion is straightforward.
The kits are very good quality & are relatively quick to build with veneered foam wings,
pre-cut parts & good instructions.
It is a strong, proven design that flies very well.