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Hugh P

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Posts posted by Hugh P

  1. 1 hour ago, Danny Fenton said:

    Hi Hugh, yes I used brass, as long as the hinges are bushed, should be fine. You will enjoy the build but its not a quick build.

    Fit mini servos in each wing, would be my advice. Also rigidly fit oleos....

    Cheers

    Danny

    Blimey that was a quick reply! Yep 2 servos for aileron and one for flaps was the plan. Oleos I am having trouble find them. I think 120 or 125mm should do the trick but HK are out of stock. Still by the time I need them they may well be available!

    Many thanks for you help Danny.

    • Like 1
  2. Danny, I have now got a copy of the plan and getting a 'kit' together. I wil be getting the wood ect from Sarik. I have a stock of 1.6mm epoxy board to fettle the hinges I hope that is the right size. There is no longer an option to but them ready cut.

    Looking at the images on the build, it looks as though the 10BA bolts are brass, is that the prefered option as opposed to steel?

    I will be shimming the hinges with brass tube.

    This build thread and others has been so helpfull, it will save falling into many traps that are lurking!

    Thanks

    Hugh

  3. Thanks Danny, exactly what I was after. I think it will work!

    I was considering a DB Auster after folowwing your build, but I think the Chippy will far better for my style of flying. There are also many videos on the Bryant Chippy to help.

    I think spending last Saturday at Shuttleworth Evening Airshow convinced me. Just have to finish of a Dawn Flyer & and a Gordon Whitehead Cap 21 & I'll be good to go.

    Thank you for your time & excellent build sequence.

    Cheers

    Hugh

    • Like 1
  4. What a great thread. If anyone is still following I am after a scan of the plan, just the nose area (prop washer to F2) with a known measurment on it so I can check printing out at 1:1

    I would like to do away with the wooden bearers and use a more modern mount. I find wood bearers always crush after some air time. My idea is to cut the bearers back and make some form of motor box for the Laser 80. I do not need the whole plan as if I can ammend the nose I will buy the planpack etc from Sarik. I have loved flying by BH Chipmunk 64" and I think the Dennis Bryant 68" would be a good way of starting of in scale. I have been a balsa basher for some years, so building from a plan would not be new to me. Thanks in advance.

    • Like 1
  5. What a great souce of information. I was going to buy a DB Piper Cub but could find little information.

    So it looks as though it will be the Auster. What a great idea the Merlyn Locks are, well worth the effort. So many tips. I will be fitting a Laser 80 so I will have to rework the motor box ect to lower the tank. From all the various photos it looks like it should not br too difficult.

    Look forward to the completion of you Auster Danny

    Thanks Danny & DD for such good information.

    Hugh

  6. I have my Timer switch set to Trainer in the setup menu on my DX6i. I have been caught out once trying to bind my AR6200 in that it would not bind until I set the switch to inhibit. Then it binds OK.angel

    Edited By Hugh P on 03/10/2019 15:51:37

  7. Well after what seems years (it has been) my Lizze has taken to the air. The bench run SC52FS had enough power to fly the 7.lbs Lysander. With a 11x7 3 blade prop and Covered in solatex. It need no trim but I think it is slightly nose heavy. I put the 5 cell AA pack through the firewall and covered the spats and cowl in 1/2 oz glass cloth to add strength ( and weight). Regards HughP. smileyThanks TN

    .lysander maiden_024.jpglysander maiden_033.jpg

  8. David, I tried today to download the September issue for reading off line. I can see the issue and I can read it on line at pocket mags, but there is no download. I have contacted them and have been told - quote "I am sorry to say that there is no download service available to digital magazine, but the magazine which are purchased will be permanantly stored in your account. Best Wishes Dan Brown." I am somewhat confussed.

  9. David, thanks, after much head scratching I have got there. biggest problem was finding the 'Off Line Viewer'. I must admit was expecting to see the back issues or will they still be available to view via this site after July next year? It will be a great loss if they are removed.

    Regards Hugh

  10. David, I upgraded my subscription as per the inserted page that came with the August RCM&E. This was to allow download to mobile device ( iphone ect) and PC. This is clearly stated on the flyer. I was told that the upgrade would be available for me by the 12 Aug, but as yet I have not found a way to download. Any ideas?

  11. I have never know 2 part epoxy to melt foam, I use the 20 min variety to join the wings and then glass fibre bandage and epoxy , never used a tube or brace unless the plan called for it. If in doubt test on some scrap foam. However NEVER use glass fibre resin (smells terrible, also 2 part) as this will just melt foam like a hot knife through butter. Also a good trick to do is before applying the bandage, dribble hot candle wax into the gap where the aileron torque rods stick out, then apply the bandage and epoxy. This will stop any epoxy resin glueing up the torque rods! You will find a hard edge to the bandage after the epoxy has cured, this is due to the weave of the bandage, simply rub down being careful not to damage the veneer then mask about 2cm away and give another coat of epoxy to fill the weave. If needed do the same again. Finally simply cut around the rod and dig out the wax and you will have a free moving torque rod again and a really strong wing join with a feathered edge to the epoxy covered bandage.

  12. Hi all

    Just to add my thoughts, I have built my 2nd Magician (the first was over 20 years ago), powered by a SC52FS on a 12x6 master and covered in Solarspan she flies a treat. On this version I modified the U/C to use blocks in the wings. I found that the piano wire kept bending around the leading edge on my original. This mod is well worth doing and I think stronger and better looking than the original. If I built another one I would add flaps and increase the size of the ailerons to compensate for the reduced length. Also rudder cold do with a little extra area for stall turns etc. There are other photos in the album. magician 4.jpgHave fun.

    Edited By Hugh Philps on 25/11/2012 21:08:32

  13. There seems to be little information on the exta fuel tank that sit's behind the pilot, so while at the Old Warden Mayfly the other day I took this shot. Hope it helps someone.
    If you have a specific area of the Lizze that you need a photo of, let me know, I might just have one.
    HughP

    Edited By Hugh Philps on 24/05/2011 19:17:34

    Edited By Hugh Philps on 24/05/2011 19:18:36

    Edited By Hugh Philps on 24/05/2011 19:18:59

  14. Jonners
    I got my aluminum localy, so I should be able to get more. Because of its size it is more expensive to post than it is to buy! I'm just hoping that the stuff I have is going to be hard enough. It took a lot of anealing to bend.
    Let me know the town that you visit in the UK. If it is local to one of the areas I regualy go to I'll get you some. Ali cost is about £8 for a Metere (enough for 2 U/C ) and postage is likey to be about £12 if I can't deliver it myself.
    My Lizzie is a bit slow on the build, but I'm getting there.
    Regards
    Hugh P
  15. Len, I used a Slec 9oz yellow tank in mine. It has got the center line down a bit, but not a lot. The designer TN used the the inverted SC, and has not reported any engine problems etc. I have a Perry Pump that I might fit if I get flooding problems etc. My build is a bit slow, there are some pictures on my web site www.hugho.co.uk .Of interest I have been using a Master Airscrew 11x7 three blade prop on my 5lb aerobatic Galaxy Magician, with an SC52FS (mounted vertical) and the 9oz tank. I get easily 10mins flight times with this set up, so in the Lizzie it should be just fine.
    HughP
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