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John Laverick

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  1. John Laverick
    Ahhhrgh, I thought it was the other way round Steve, Should imagine the UBEC and the motor wouldn't have liked 44 volts going through them niether? That's why the connection spark was a lot bigger than normal. I'll have to write that down and stick it on my work desk, it might save me a bit of money? thanks
  2. John Laverick
    I meant Series Chris!!! by my reckoning, if It will run on 6 s then adding another battery in series shouldn't make any difference, should it? It went poof as soon as I connected it. Unless of course the ESC wasn't rated for 6s but it was a 100amp jobby and most of them are.
  3. John Laverick
    Just spent the whole afternoon with the same problem, I've soldered and resoldered but still the motor stuttered. I changed the ESC and it worked perfectly, However I came up with a different problem, I connected my ESC to a 6s battery and it worked fine, I then put two of the same battery in parallel and the ESC wnt poof!!!!!!! Any ideas's as to why?
  4. John Laverick
    Great video Danny/Chris, You're right about using larger batteries for added weight of course, I'll not be flying her until the spring so I've time to spirit some pennies away to buy even more batteries. Interesting watching the data read out showing that she was quite happy for normal flying on around 600watts. Gives me great confindence. thanks John
  5. John Laverick
    Two 25c 3000's Danny, yea it is the old one with the foam wings, the new Mick Reeves Hurricane is larger and has built up wings. Unfortunately I have to stick some lead in it's nose, or mess about with larger batteries to get it to balance
  6. John Laverick
    This one John del: XYH63-54 Input Voltage : max. 37V (10S Li-po) Kv : 250 rpm/V No. of turn :14 Delta Max. efficiency current : 50A Current capacity : 65A/60s Internal Resistance : 59 mohm No Load current @ 7V: 2.16A Dimensions : 82mm X 53mm Shaft diameter : 10mm / 0.39in Weight with cables : 4800g / Number of poles/magnets : 14 Recommended model weight : 5000~10000g / 176~352oz Power equivalent : .90-150 Glow Scary the amount of power it has!!! Can't test it on your own, you need someone to hold the model. Love the advancement in electric power we have, not gone this big before, 4s has been my maximum so far, but a motor this size going at full belt on 10s!!! Would hate to think I got in the way of it! I know you can hurt yourself with a motor running on a 4s but this is a different league, wow!!!
  7. John Laverick
    Well, here she is finished at last. This is an old Mick Reeves 80" Hurricane which I've converted to electric. I bought it as my first ever kit in 1992, way beyond my skill level so she was built and then stuck in the attic. Over the past 10 years I've built about 30 planes from plans so I decided my skill level had progressed enough for me to do a conversion on it. The colour scheme is based on a Sea Hurricane with invasion stripes, totally made up and proberly never exsisted, but I like it. Set up is 11.2 pounds fully loaded, 63/54 sized motor, 20x10 wooden prop, 70amp HV ESC, running on 10s, @ 1270 watts, 37 amps with Top Flite leccy retracts and flaps Hope you like it
  8. John Laverick

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    John Laverick posted a gallery image in Member Albums

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    John Laverick posted a gallery image in Member Albums

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    John Laverick posted a gallery image in Member Albums

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    John Laverick posted a gallery image in Member Albums

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    John Laverick posted a gallery image in Member Albums

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    John Laverick posted a gallery image in Member Albums

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    John Laverick posted a gallery image in Member Albums

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    John Laverick posted a gallery image in Member Albums

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    John Laverick posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  18. John Laverick
    Getting everything mixed up Olly, the model actually weighs 11 lbs 2 oz and it pulled 890 watts. so what's that about 80 watts per lb? I've seen an example set up of 20 x 10 xoar wooden prop, 10s 3000mah pulling 1600w @ 47 amps. which is exactly the same set up I'm going for when I get my new (and considerably more expensive) HV ESC!!
  19. John Laverick
    Doh! 89 watts and 100 watts per lb. 1000w would get a full size one up!!
  20. John Laverick
    Do you think so Brian? I've enquired about this before on the forum and the consensus of opinion seemed to be that you need over 1000w per lb for a warbird!
  21. John Laverick
    Been re-egineering an old Mick Reeves 88in Hurricane to electric and found to my cost as the plane gets bigger and heavier the electrics require to be upgraded. I was getting 890watts per lb, which for a 13 lb model doesn't quite cut it!! Right I thought, bigger motor, bigger prop is the order of the day. I had a 100amp esc on it already, so no probs I thought. She ran sweet on 8s only pulling 42 amps with my new motor but it needed more ooomph, stuck 10s on it and then poof!!!!!! that lovely sickly sweet smell of an esc frying. On inspection I couldn't believe how dumb I'd been? Yea it was rated for 100amps but only 2-6 lipos!!! didn't even realize I need a higher voltage ESC. Then I looked at the UBEC and that was only rated for 2-6 lipo's as well! Numpty
  22. John Laverick
    Went into the loft yesterday and brought down a Mick Reeves 80" Hurricane kit which I bought in 1992. This was my very first RC build after years of building and showing plastic model kits. I was in the Army in 92 and for some reason I managed to keep this model through all my different postings and all of my marriages (three marriages at least I think) Can't believe how bad I was at building, (and marriages) but can't also believe how well the model has stood up to the test of time!! Took all the covering off and sanded it back to how it should have been, really excited!! gonna convert it to electric. i've been building from plans for a few years now and the enjoyment is immense. However it's brilliant to get an old model< (which you thought you built great in the first place?) and then discover how bad a builder you really were!!!! or is it you discover how much you have improved in your model building? go with the latter Me thinks!! Anyway I'm goona post some build photos, hope you all enjoy   Edited By Chris Bott - Moderator on 20/08/2012 23:20:16
  23. John Laverick
    Cocktail sticks for me, buy a pair of plastic modellers sprue snippers and you can cut them really neat. Defo won't come loose no matter what. Alan, a bit of sand paper will surely cover the sticky out bits of a stick. No glue no bother, must be the easiest way to do hinged bits?
  24. John Laverick
    I apperciate that unplugging the esc lead or removing the prop whilst messing with servo's is the safe way of doing things, however as can be seen by the differing opinions, I actually thought using a seperate battery on to the RX whether the ESC lead was connected or not, was safe? As Steve says, It didn't spin very fast but I wouldn't want to get my fingers/nose /face in there. Guess the outcome is Take the prop off no matter what. thanks guys John
  25. John Laverick
    Thanks for all the reply Gents, Looking at your replies it seems it shouldn't happen so just to make sure I've not imagined it, I've just done it again with the same result. the ESC is a Black Mantis 50 amp SBEC programmable, there is world of info about programming it on the Giant Shark site. perhaps some of you more technically minded might be able to glean something from that. Biggles I don't use a seperate battery only for testing the servo's, I "thought" it was safer than using a Lipo attached to the motor Thanks John
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