Martin_H
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The 2009 RCM&E & Modelflying.co.uk awards
Martin_H replied to David Ashby - Moderator's topic in All Things Model Flying
Budget Hobbies in Capalaba, Brisbane, for either having everything or getting it in in a few days, Steve Webb, for supplying a Flair Tiger Moth to me in Oz in 6 days! Windrider (Hong Kong) for an amazing range of electric flight kits and essentials Hyperion Sampson Biplane, though ARF, a work of art... But then, I am in Australia.... -
YAY!!! Wedgies! 2 1/2 degrees of UP resulted in this: Thrust wedges made from scrap engine bearer from the depths of the modelling box and fitted behind engine mount: Again please excuse quality, using the camera phone. It all looks excessive, but I wouldn't mind trying an incidence meter and seeing what the thrust and incident lines really are. There is still a side thrust issue with the cowl, but not so much as it throws everything out. I might grind away the face ring and fit a 3" spinner, have that annular cooling inlet that you remarked on, Federico. wouldn't hurt if it gets a little more air through the motor and the cowl is going to be adequately supported by the fuselage. I don't know about you guys but I find this all quite exciting! Here's a bunch of enthusiasts from all over the world working together to get the best result we can, using all our experiences and accumulated knowledge, bouncing ideas, mistakes and our successes off each other and moving forwards! Now, if only we could get our politicians to do the same!
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Thanks Leon, well done! I will definitely incorporate my 2 1/2 degrees, probably at the firewall because I would like to use my poly pipe mount out of my Cub without modifying it. It will be interesting to see if Graeme's review Gull has the same characteristics!
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Hi Leon, good to see you have one airborne! The tipping forward from idle when power is applied might be a result of the down thrust being too excessive. Could you try something? A good check for down/upthrust is to establish the model in cruise and in trim, then apply power. If everything is okay the model should climb in a level attitude, ie no elevator needed to maintain straight and level. If the model dives, then it has excessive down thrust, if it climbs nose up, then it has excessive up thrust. I suspect the model will dive when power is applied. The same check can be used to establish side thrust. If you can confirm my nose diving when power applied theory then i will incorporate the 2 1/2 degree change to the thrust line I figure I need to make the cowl fit nicely. If not, then it looks like I will move the engine mount upwards OR build a new cowl...
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Hi Keith - Aeronaut do a Catalina, so do Great Planes, might give you some idea as to electric power. Check out their websites
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Just measured how much packing I need to bring the thrust line up to in line with a neat fitting cowl - works out at a tad under 2 1/2 degrees. Providing it doesn't go into up thrust territory I could probably live with that...
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Guess what? The electric conversion doesn't solve the thrust line and cowl problem.... either the firewall has been incorrectly located or the cowl hasn't been manufactured taking the modified thrust line into consideration. The question is, which is correct? The easiest solution is to pack under my engine mount to raise the thrust line to get a neat cowl fit, but what if it needs all that downthrust to fly??? My kneejerk reaction is to pack the whole thing up and wait to see if Graham can come up with a definitive answer to the flying characteristics. If all that downthrust is there for a good reason then my Gull will not be a very happy camper if I remove some or all of it! Now, if someone wants to make a more scale-ish cowl (bit longer, back over the wing root) and compensate for the down thrust then I am VERY interested, chaps! So, until someone comes up with the definitive solution, I am off to start on my Flair Tiger Moth... Excuse the photos - camera phone... Edited By Arte et Marty on 01/12/2009 05:38:33
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I really am wondering about joining the wings....double pinned at the front, substantial Joiner, two bolts at the back... I have filled the gap above the wing trailing edge in the fuselage with scrap balsa - gives a positive stop to the wing location without introducing a wing warp by over zealous tightening of the wing bolts. Hmmm...maybe a liteply plate picking up both wing bolt attachment holes instead of the two washers provided
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Alan C - kits must vary from time to time or country to country - my trailing edge is fairly hard, as best as I can figure it is at least 6.5 mm, possibly 8 mm thick. I have my doubts too, regarding the wheel units, as I have highlighted previously. Some thoughts as to the 'circlips' - maybe turning up a nylon sleeve instead and locating it using the cap screw, for the centre bolt I am thinking maybe a hex head bolt and a retainer washer or drilling the cap screw and lock wiring it to the fork. At least if it comes loose the fairing will stop it getting too far off line and the cap screw wont undo and have the gummins fall apart. In any case, Loctite is essential.
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Wheels - the Dubro 4 1/2" balloon tyres look pretty good however for weight saving I have fitted the 4 1/2" lightweight Dubro wheels. Contemporary Australia is swamped with American modelling stuff, however, some years ago I obtained some very lightweight wheels from Brian Taylor for his large Mossie plan. They looked very similar to offerings in some Flair kits - RadioActive origin perhaps??? Try Flair's 114 mm dia FL2207C or 127 mm dia FL2208CEdited By Arte et Marty on 29/11/2009 09:18:53
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Thanks Jim, Very nice! I'm hoping that church roof will be mostly battery, I was wanting to use the fuel tank location however I am leaning more towards forwards of the firewall. The E-Flite 160 weighs in at 23 oz or 650 grams and the batteries at 22 oz or 630 grams each, for a total of 67 oz or 1910 grams. If I need to I should get most of that forward of the firewall.
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Aussie Steve Barker has just finished his Flair Tiger and added a heap of detail and it came out at 9 kg or just under 20 lbs. I wont be adding as much scale detail as Steve has and I have decided to make my full length pilot removable and fit a false floor and pilot bust for flying. I am hoping on 8 kg or 18 lbs tops and that includes two 5S 5 Amp LiPo batteries.
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Hmmmm..... 7 kilos or 14 1/2 lbs AUW - now THAT will be a challenge!
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The canopy wasn't too bad, needed a little bit of gentle persuasion and left a little bit of paint behind when it finally let go, however, the canopy touched up easily with some white acrylic paint. Worse was the original pilot, the 'floor' is VERY soft 1 mm balsa and the new pilot hides a rather large hole where the original was solidly glued in place. Hence my near spasm of opening up and detailing the entire cockpit! I would probably preferred a larger pilot, about 30%, the Williams offering to me seems to be a tad too small and the impression of a crowded cockpit that you see in contemporary photos just isn't there. Still, for a stand off scalish model, I am happy with the Gull and will save up the extra detailing ideas for my Flair Tiggie. Just for interest, the pilots harness is simply 3/4" masking tape, folded inwards on itself to 1/4" width and painted with khaki acrylic. The instrument panel is 3mm ply and the coaming 0.8mm ply. I think the original coaming might have been left a natural timber colour but black works for me. Edited By Arte et Marty on 19/11/2009 09:06:14 Edited By Arte et Marty on 19/11/2009 09:09:30
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Cockpit photos! Alex had really curly hair it seems and I tried unsuccessfully to get the effect. Still, he has a purposeful steely determination in his eye and the Cape in sight! The compass points south... I had to work very hard to resist the temptation to make a full depth cockpit. It wouldn't be difficult, the elevator and rudder snakes would need rerouting and there is plenty of aftermarket stuff that would fit. The pink paper on the cockpit rear bulkhead is a copy of the C of A. Edited By Arte et Marty on 19/11/2009 06:11:46
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