Tim Cheal
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Posts posted by Tim Cheal
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Frank,Sorry I missed your question. The throtte to idle failsafe is not set up.RegardsTim
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Thanks Guys,We were not on a buddy box, simply passing the transmitter.It is a Spectrumm Dx6i with a Spectrum AR6200 receievr.I had bundled the arials in the protective wrapping I had put around the receivers, so they were 'wrapped around' the main and remote receiver, whch we placed about 3 inches apart in the model.RegardsTim
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If anybody is interested I tried everything. The guys at the club could not get a consistent setting either so I eventually took the engine back to the shop, who sent it to SC. SC could not get it to run properly either, they have replaced the engine and the new one runs as sweet as anything!!RegardsTim
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I am after some help.
I flew my model for the first time yesterday with an instructor at my local club. All was going well, then I seemed to momentarily lose aileron control input, but by the time I had thought about it all was well again. I did let the instructor know, but put it down to my nervousness. However, a short while later the aircraft pitched down in the turn, but up elevator had no effect. I rolled out the turn, but the aircraft continued in a dive that I could not arrest .The instructor quickly took control but to no avail, and the aircraft continued in a steep dive. The model is Cat 5, so I collected the bits and set off home. The instructor wanted to know about the elevator linkages, which were all still connected.
I have tried to diagnose the problem today. The linkages to all controls are all still intact. I have now removed the radio equipment from the wreck and it works as advertised. I have checked the voltages; the voltage on the receiver was near enough 6 volts about 2 hours after the crash (when I thought to check it) and the transmitter was 5.4v. After removing the control runs I have found the metal pushrods (housed in a plastic sleeve pre installed in the ARTF Seagull Boomerang) to be quite rusty, but nothing else seems untoward.
This is all a bit of background info and I am after some help and advice. Can anybody advise what might have caused the loss of elevator control? I have salvaged the engine (which with a new needle valve is working fine) and the radio equipment (a Spectrum Dx6i (2.4GHZ) with receiver and 4 servos (Zebra ZS-S2113) All this is as supplied by the model shop in a 'package deal'. For info, the servo instructions (on the box) state that they have a torque rating of 3.2kg-cm (44.43 oz-in) at 6.0 v and 2.6 kg-cm (36.10 oz-in) at 4.8 v
I have to confess I had taken little care to check the aerial runs on the installation as the aerials are only about 1 inch long on the main and remote receiver. Could these have been close to each other and interfered? The manual states that the remote antennas should be at least 2 inches away form the primary antenna, but I am not sure if that is critical.
Thanks David,Definately worth a change fo fuel lines to see.I am in Wilmslow, and have joined the flying club at Total Fitness on the A34 bypass.Thanks for the help.RegardsTimThe fuel is 5 months old (or at least I bought it 5 months ago!).RegardsTimI have just got in from tinkering for an hour or so. Its -1deg C, so not sure if that has any effect.
If I give a sitrep then ask some questions.Thanks to all your help I am much farther forward. The engine is starting much easier, and I can now 'rev it up and down over a small range fairly quickly without it stuttering. However, if I set it to full throttle (or nearly full throttle) after about 10 seconds the engine simply dies. I would guess that it goes lean before it simply runs down. (I say that because of the pitch of the revs (very high) and the fact that to start it next time I need to get fuel in the carb by putting my finger over the carb inlet... does that make sense?) I have no control over this with the main needle.Could I ask a couple of questions. I notice that the fuel pipe from the exhaust to the tank gets full of 'gung'. Is that normal? Should I have a filter in the line?
It is - 1 deg C. I managed to get the engine 'hot' (at least too hot too touch) but will the temperature prevent top end running?Should I buy a new glow plug and fuel just in case? Any recommendations on either count?RegardsTimEdited By Tim Cheal on 03/01/2010 17:23:59
Thanks Guys.The engine is in a Seagull Booomerang, with pressurised tank and clear tubing. Your advice is greatly appreciated.The snow in Manchester has precluded me running it today, so I will try tomorrow.Thanks again for all your advice, I will let you know how I get on.RegardsTim.Thanks you for the direction. That is what I will try tomorrow!Thanks again
TimI am not sure if anybody out there can help.It’s a long story, which I shall keep short. I have a brand new SC46 engine which I damaged the carburettor barrel on, and possibly the high and low end mixture screws. I have replaced the carburettor barrel, and am using a new high end mixture screw (actually from an older SC carburettor, but it looks identical) and a new low end screw. Try as I might I cannot get any settings that will allow the engine to run at any setting for any length of time. I have read articles and tried various starting points; the first port of call has been to try to get the high end mixture set. But it does not seem to stay stable enough for any length of time. I have tried the RCM&E advised method of setting the low end screw as advised in a recent magazine (needle in carburettor barrel to obtain a small opening and then blow down the fuel inlet while turning the low end mixture until air starts to flow), but I am not sure that my setting is correct.
Does anybody have the factory settings for these carburettors, so that at least I know I am in the right ball park?
Or any other ideas? My fuel is 5 months old, my glow plug as fitted new when I got the engine 5 months ago, through which I have run about 4 tanks of fuel when it was running OK before I damaged the carburettor.
Thanks in anticipation.
Tim Cheal
Reason for Crash??
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