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Ian Whittaker

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Posts posted by Ian Whittaker

  1. 16 hours ago, Paul De Tourtoulon said:

    If it's hovering that you need to perfect  -3 / +8 is enough, or -4 / +9 in windy conditions +5 at half throttle with the stick

    in the centre using a 'flat' pith curve, this of course with the right head speed, I can't help you there as I only fly methanol,

    a Raptor .50 and a Robbe Millenium ' Youngblood '

     

     If my memory does not fail me, my Raptor head speed in hover is 1.700rpm and my Millenium is 1.550 rpm

    Thanks for that Paul, I’ll give that a go. I can always tweak it as I wish, that’s a good start point at least!

  2. Thanks for the opinion Allan,

    It’s a pair of flybarless machines, Align 550X and 700x to be accurate. I do much / most of flying in idle up 1, general club flying, and I’m a bit reluctant to modify it too much. I’m thinking that perhaps a smaller pitch range of, say, 2 - 9 degrees in a purpose use hover mode will allow a finer control and allow more accurate height control rather than -4+11 in idle up 1? 
    I do nearly all my flying in idle up 1 or 2, using the normal mode really for just spooling up / stopping the head , switching from normal immediately after taking off and back either just before or just after touching back down. There’s no reason of course to say I couldn’t simply set up a ‘hover’ mode and try it (safe height, obviously!), my transmitter has the facility for another flight mode easily enough, and I can also get it to adjust the expo on the same switch. If I don’t like it then I could revert to as I am now and simply practice more! What I really need to do is have more flights dedicated to practicing the BMFA B schedule, laying a few cones out at the correct distances….0C5521C7-F2BE-4CBE-9B2D-7E3ED9E81C21.thumb.jpeg.9584fcb19890a072555518b337db2680.jpeg

  3. Hi all,

    Ive got both my helicopters (Trex 550 and 700) set up in a similar manner -

    normal throttle curve - starts at zero at zero stick, ramps up to 50 quickly at about 25% stick then flat at 50 to full stick, -4 to +11 degrees pitch,

    idle up 1 -  a flat 50 throttle (governor controlled by the esc), identical pitch curve, and

    idle up 2 - flat 60 at the esc, pitch at +-11 degrees. 
    I use the normal throttle curve for spoiling up, taking off and usually landing, Idle up 1 for normal sport flying, loops, circuits, stall turns Cuban 8s etc and idle up 2 for inverted hovering and when I’m trying my more aggressive manoeuvres. I’ve got them set so the transition between modes is pretty smooth, with little if any jump up or down. 
    All flight conditions use a similar 20% expo on aileron and elevator, 30% on rudder. 

    Im now finding I want to practice more slow speed manoeuvres - with a view towards a BMFA ‘B’ test.
    Would people suggest I adopt a third mode to go with idle up 1 and 2, perhaps labeled as ‘Hover’? I’m not sure what settings I’d use, hence this monstrosity long post. I’m quite happy with the rotor speed in idle up 1, but thinking would a smaller pitch range be beneficial, say, 2 to 9 degrees as the hover is about 5~6 degrees, giving easier to give the fine precise control required for my hovering practice? Equally I’m thinking a little less expo?

    Any opinions would be gratefully received!

    thanks in advance, 

    Ian. 

  4. 5 minutes ago, Simon Chaddock said:

    I don't have any plane, currently 30 flyable, that has not been broken to some degree and repaired. Some more than once!

    The old adage "If you can't risk it don't fly it".

    Be aware the degree of risk is directly proportional to your flight 'currency'. ? 

    I have a helicopter that’s a bit like Trig’s broom…

  5. Hi,

    ive got an unstarted Flair DR1 kit in the garage. I bought it perhaps ten or more years ago and haven’t touched it - it’s moved house with me a few times but that’s about it. I can’t see me actually building it so where would people suggest I advertise it - the BMFA classifieds, eBay, on here in the for sale section? Equally does anybody have a rough idea what i should be pricing it at please?

     

    thanks,

     

    ian. 

  6. About ten years ago I got a powered glider from a very good friend in my local model flying club in the South West. I flew it often and looked after it well, even more so when my friend sadly died. It’s not been in the air now for perhaps six or eight years, house moves, separations land other life events getting in the way. I’m now wanting to see it fly again, and feel it’ll be ideal for those hopefully decent summer days we’ve got coming soon. It’s marked with ‘Pelikan’, and  ‘Puffin’ stickers, and was an ARTF as I recall. Would anybody have one where they could give me an indication of control throws please? I’m happy the c of g will be fine, as I’ll be using the same type of batteries (4 cell AA r/x pack and a 3S ~2200mAh flight pack for the esc) in the same locations, but would a starting point for control surface movement please. I do remember it had a decent amount of aileron differential, I had different flight modes set but that’s about it! Thanks! 

    1F4FBB09-5835-4962-A912-3F9D42A8924F.jpeg

  7. Hi Dale,

     

    I’ve a as yet unstarted  kit tucked away with a set of the plans in. If you’ve not sorted this by now give me a ring and we’ll sort it out. Thanks, 

    Ian

     

  8. On 02/11/2021 at 14:18, Mike Sanders said:

    I have just seen this thread and you may well have reached a conclusion by now but here is my two penn'orth.

     

     I haven't flown a 550 but I have a 450, a 600 and a 700, all Align. I am not an aerobatic flyer and only fly upright manoeuvres, usually slowly. (I am currently practicing the B test moves but I doubt whether I will take it.)

     

     The 700 is much more stable and easy to control. It handles wind better because it has a higher power to weight ratio. It has greater visibility in the air. I much prefer flying it.

     

     I recommend not as the ideal machine for a plodder like me but also if you do 3D aerobatics etc. If you have seen Duncan Osborn fly his you will know what I mean. It could be argued that there are now (slightly) better 3D machines available now but they are very expensive. If you ask me to choose between a 550 and a 700, for me the 700 wins hands down.

    As a follow up, I bought a 700 which I’ve just finished building and now had a few flights with. My thoughts so far…

    It feels and looks better in the air. The extra weight seems to let it sit better and give it more presence, especially during reasonably quick circuits. I wouldn’t describe it as more stable as I’ve never had a snag with the 550, (even when flying in winds where the Microbeast struggled to initialise) but it flys well, seeming steady and stable in both a normal and inverted hover. I’m still at the stage where I’m setting up pitch and throttle curves but I’m happy enough with it, it’s great. I wouldn’t say it’s better yet than the 550 as I’m much more familiar and happy with the 550 and happy to throw it round much more, but I’m getting there!

    The battery endurance (aka flight time) seems slightly better than the 550 too. I’m looking at 4.20 flights for 35% left in the 550, the 700 gives me 5.30 with about 40% battery left (4000 mAh pack). Obviously I’m monitoring this and expect the 700 to start using a bit more power as I get more familiar with it. 

    There is of course always the advantage with the 700 that it produces two hand warming devices (aka batteries!) per flight, which is a definite bonus when on a hillside and the puddles are frozen solid! 

  9. On 02/01/2022 at 16:09, Trevor Crook said:

    Ian, I had a look on Ebay and the only Zeee 6s 4000s at present are 25C rated. Is this rating the same as the ones you use? 

    The ones I use are (claimed to be) 60C. eBay item 144191201165. I bought two sets - four batteries - for £154, under the best offer deal. They’re showing as out of stock now, they weren’t always available. 

    image.jpg

  10. I’ve bought a few cheap ones off eBay. Two were awful- I sent them back and got a full refund.  Another brand - Zeee - were good value for money in my opinion. Yes, they aren’t as good as my expensive packs but they’re about 50% of the cost. I don’t know if they’ll last as well long term but I use them in a EDF Hawk and helicopters, both current hungry beasts, and they’re fine. I’ve bought a few now, they’re ok for the money! (6S, 4000mAh). 

  11. Apologies for the thread revival, it’s been a while! I’m not using either the airframe or engine I’ve photo’s on the previous page so I’m going to sell both, either together or separately. What would folk suggest, eBay? BMFA classifieds? 

  12. Thanks John, thanks Barry for your opinions, they are both taken on board! There’s a shortage of either machine at present it seems so I’ll give it a bit longer and more thought. I do fancy the 700 though, as things stand…

  13. I’m considering making the step from an Align Trex 550X to one of their 700 (800?) models. I’m in no way unhappy with the 550, it’s far better than I am in every way so I appreciate it’s a bit pointless but see it as an upgrade. Is the bigger size a bonus at all in the air? There’s a few downsides (initial cost, more batteries required, won’t sit neatly in the boot of my car without the seats down to name but a few) but am I right in thinking a 700/800 sized machine flys better than a 550, in the same way I never got on with the smaller one (300 sized ish I think from memory) I bought 2nd hand but love my 550X? My helicopter is at the stage of needing a few repairs and I’m wondering I could use this as an push to ‘trade up’! 

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  14. On 02/06/2021 at 21:54, PeterF said:

    Just think about how the lipos are used, we fliers totally abuse them, we charge them quickly in less than 1 hour to 100% full then we discharge them to 20% in 4 to 15 minutes. This really hammers them and gives them a short life. Power tools, phones, cars discharge over a much longer period which means more cycles and longer lives. If possible they charge more slowly which again increases number of cycles and life. I also believe that Tesla only charge to 80% not 100% which also increases the number of cycles and life.

    Tesla give you the option of either 80% - for normal use and with a nod towards battery longevity- and 100%, to give max range on a longer run. 

  15. On 27/04/2021 at 20:36, Nigel R said:

    That was a lucky buy.

    Could certainly fund a few other toys if you decide to auction it off.

     

    How much roughly are these engines worth now please? I can’t see me using it in a competitive manner so could swap it for something different if the Hanno would help someone else. I could easily find another engine to haul my airframe around the sky...

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