monty2

Chris, to show my ignorance and relatively recent return to the sport how do I get at the separate adjustments. I have spent a couple of hours poring through the manual and pouring tea down my throat and can only see how to do it in Travel adjust for what appears to be one side.

Have rechecked everything, yes I am using a Y lead and I assumed both ailerons would move the same. All settings on transmitter are now neutral (Inh or 100%) and everything OK. I need to reduce throws according to manufacturers recommendation. This is when problem starts. I set to 30% using Travel Adjust and on LH bank I get 5mm movement of both ailerons and on Rh bank 20mm+. This looks like a recipe for disaster. I need to set upward deflection to 8mm and downwards to 4mm What am I doing wrong?? Or am I expecting the DX6 to do more than is possible?

Just called away by E'r indoors din din ready must go for now

PS:That's 5.00mm not five thousand

Have just bought an Easy Star 2 for casual use, have set up with a Spektrum DX6i and AR400 receiver. When assembling I used a dedicated servo checking tool to set the mid point on the servos. I then plugged in the AR400 and throws are wildly different. I have appx 5,00mm on a Lh turn and about 20.00mm on the right turn. Any suggestions to correct servos don't appear to find a different centre point but sit happily where the checker says they should. Help please from those more expert than I am.

This is meant for Jim Newberry, having followed this thread since March and finally finished my Jemima and had it flying, I now have a couple of queries. First I am a newbie having come back to our hobby after many many years. I was a tab troubled to need 150gms of nose weight, so does this seem normal or have I built to tail end too heavy. secondly when flying today and also over the last couple of flights she is prone to nosing over both on take off and landing. I cured the former with a touch of up elevator but though it appears to work on landing, as she stops, over she goes. Unfortunately today got a lot worse, the fuselage broke at the F5 position. I know from the threads other have had a problem when building at this point. Any advice on reducing the failure possibility? Lastly to try and stop the nose over would it help to alter the rear U/C arm by lengthening it to push the front wheels forward by say half to three quarters of an inch If you are still checking these threads, please help an elderly Gadgie as we say up here in the north?

When I did my fus for jemima like MKF myeyes said it aint right but I did it with a jig an over the paln it looks OK.

managed 2 good flights and 1 good landing, oh how sad, need a new LiPo nad my local (30 miles away) shopwill benefit. ended with a nose in to ground. They suggested hot water on foam to restore and to my utter surprise it worked.

twas't the wine nor a sticky push road but after fiddling and rechecking the C of G it was too tail heavy. Flew beautifully after sorting out.

Ta, Will give that a try tomorrow, to late tonight, just had a good dinner with wine etc.will comment back.

I an still learning on a buddy system but to get more stick time on my own have bought a Sky Surfer foamie. At first flight she porpoisede badly, assuming this to be a C of G issue I checked and found the battery was moving. Siorted that out and went for another flight. Guess what no different!!!! It is equally bad power on or off, difficult tofly and land. Anyone out there can give me some idea of posible causes

Stupid me I've worked it out for what suits me. I used a single guage at first, that equals problem. Redid all dihedral ribs using a better guage with 2 parts joined at about 3 inches apart. now all is OK. Back to apprentice days when assembly was always taught with a suitable jig. It still works.

Stuart, have followed you on the alternative Jemima site and looked at this tosday, Brill. OPne small query, if you look at the alternative it will give full detail but I have an issue with the dihedral element. Did you have any issues with the rib guages not giving the full figure Jim gives on the plan.

Well I'm back at last knees ion reasonable working order, which is more than I can say for my modelling skills.Over the last couple of weeks I have built all the wing components. I get about 30 mins at a go beforekneees get too sore, Ahhhhhhh says you all.Today I rough assembled the wings and found that despite several checks using the dihedral guides Iget only 55mm not 65mm as suiggested. when I roughly place the braces on the wing and align to them all appears OK. Help!!!! what am I doing wrong?? Or is the angle on the lay up guides incorrect?Otherwise all is looking good for starting to cover asssemble and get flying. The first time with my own build since 195?????, not telling you lot.

Ta Stewart, I've already built tail feathers and fuselage intend starting wings and possibly iron work while waiting for glues to dry before I disappear. Need to sort out a tray for electrics and servos. I intend using pull-pull rudder and possibly a snake for elevator,. we shall see. I have all other leccy bits ready and raring to go.

Stewart, watching what you are doing is helping me see whare I am going. I was hoping to make a start on the ribs and then the wings but I've hit a physical snag which will cause delay. I have top have a knee replacement this week so a built in delay. Never miond I will keep up with you on my Knidle while in Hospital and then get back to my Shed asap. With a bit of luck you will be finished and flying long before i get done

Reading Stewart last post again, I have to comment, I have a deep seated aversion to cheap buys from ebay, have seen too many suffer from buying down to a price. Always better to buy quality rather than price.

As with Stewart,I am about to start on the wings but slightly different, last night I went to my club night and took along what I have made so far for a critique session with many experienced builders. It went well for somone back to modelling afte 50+ years I thought, no real criticism. I feel that could be a worthwhile exercise for those like me..The only issue raised was that perhaps the steerable Tail Wheeel could well be eleiminated and replaced with a skid. I will be flying this from a rough farmers field.

Jim, I am nearly new at building, last time was 50+ years ago ( different world then). I have used O,25" for F1 what do you suggest for fixing the motor, self tappers or bolts and nuts. I wonder about security of self tappers in this thickness\\/

Just got to the stage where I pulled in the rear end. No probs with the weak spot found by others, I used my SLEC jig and pulled thesides in part way, left overnight then pulled in the rest of the way before fitting the formers. I felt thisallowed any stress at the weak spot to relieve itself before final gluing. I use aliphatic glue for this area.I do appreciate this is a bit late and others have moved on a bit, I prefer to do things slowly and work out what Im amtrying to achieve. but it may help others who are only just looking at present. Edited By monty2 on 28/02/2013 09:01:25

Saw the last 2 posts, I read the drawings and split the tailplane spar when building last week, should Im remake with a continuous spar or will I get away with a split spar. I to have recently returned to this hobby after masy years away so am still relearning as a result I am still working with a trainer on a buddy box and hoped this would help further my progress when I am clearwed to fly solo prior to my A cert.

Hi Jim, thanks for help your photo is much clearer than plan or cutaway in RCME. They both suggest that the spar is bent to meet the tip, so I was abit unsure. Now all clear

I have recently returned to modelling and although I started with a bigger model, my instructor suggested I should have one that fits my car, which this one does. I have made a start but although I am perfectly capable of reading most engineering drawings fro a lifetime in that area. I am a little unsure about the wing tips. it shows to me two parts of sheet wood, is that correct otr is that 1 part. Advice please

Again, I use the KISS principal, for flat items stright on the building board, pins either through the balsa if thick enough or straddling. If attaching say 2 wing halves, clamps of various sizes or old fashioned pegs knicked from 'er indoors when she aint looking. if youre not familiar with KISS, its an old term from my apprentice days and means Keep It Simple Stupid. use just prior to your instructor applying a size 12 boot to a delicate part of the anatomy.

As a recent returner to models, I photocopy the bits I want and mount them on the balsa with "Spray Mount" from WH Smith. when bits cut peels off easy peasy. I found it better than Pritt stick etc.