Rob Ashley
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Posts posted by Rob Ashley
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Jim, That is a very nice example of Miss Lizzy - well done you....
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Peter,
Just echoing what others have said - a great ambassador for the hobby and many thanks for your inspiration to design my own. There are at least 6 of your designs that are still on my building schedule. My favourite is a scaled up Tequila Sunrise - one of the best models I have flown and makes me smile at every outing.....
The very best to you sir....
Rob
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Robin,
Forgot to add to last post - good luck with own design. Any pictures?
Rob
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Hi Robin,
Simple answer is no - just draw the outline you want. Some companies request you set the line width to 0.1mm but this is easy to do in one go when the drawing is done. I use a router (not laser for a number of reasons) in my CNC and set the cutter diameter offset in the cutting program not CAD, so I always draw the outline in CAD that I want to end up with in my hand. The thickness of the laser is tenths of mm as is not really noticeable, but of course off sets can be entered at the cutting stage - the operator should do this if required.
Sometimes the company requests you set your drawings out exactly as they are to be cut, if this is the case consider your layout of each part.
Have a look at who you want to cut your parts and usually they have advice about how they want to receive CAD files.
Hope this helps
Rob
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Hi Sean,
Whilst it is ideal to fly a trainer to learn there is nothing wrong with taking your Corsair and letting an instructor/examiner fly it and show you how it goes. He/she may well let you have a quick go at the sticks to whet your appetite too. To reduce the likelihood of crashing I also advocate a trainer and instructor at a club - as crashing can be very disheartening and expensive.
I say this because generally RC aircraft flying is harder than it looks at the outset (mainly due to the orientation and aspect of the model in relation to you (i.e. you are not sat in it so cannot always tell at what attitude the plane is - and therefore cannot put the appropriate control inputs in).
There are those who have self taught but in my expereicne this is not always the best method to 'teach' the correct methods and techniques. There is a huge wealth of building and flying experience at most clubs (not to mention the socials) and it would be waste no to tap into that.
It is a wonderful hobby with almost limitless possibilities, but I think learning to fly correctly is a must.
Hope this helps
Rob
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Douglas,
Thanks - I will read the article (not read the August issue yet) and get cracking.
Danny,
I have found that Ronseal Diamond Hard usually goes off within the hour but I leave it overnight before handling and a min of 24-48 hrs before use at the field.
Rob
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Hi Douglas,
Thanks for the heads up. I have used Ronseal Diamond Hard Varnish as a fuel proofer but not as a resin before. I am inspired to give it a try on the next project as it sounds very easy to do.
Please could you tell me which issue the article is in?
Many thanks
Rob
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Alan,
Try Ebay - there are usually many sellers that will provide the exact amount/thickness and grade you need. Most UK suppliers will ship to Europe too.
Good luck with it. Rob
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Peter,
Solid Edge(SE) does not export GCode it produces CAD output files (DWG / DXF etc). I use Curve Cut to import the DXF from SE then post process to GCode for Mach 3 which controls my CNC machine.
Hope this helps
Rob
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Ian N,
When Solid Edge imports drawings it often loads them as separate layers or in blocks. For CNC stuff I would always keep everything on one layer. Reason being the dxf file you generate for the cutting program effectively links everything on a single layer as a continuous line. So different layer= different line. It is possible to have multiple layers but I have found that a single layer works best for me for model aircraft work.
if the drawing loads in as blocks then select all and use ungroup function to get individual lines back. The dxf will not see grouped or blocked lines - hence I use a single layer to keep it easy
Best regards
Rob
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Hi all,
I have been using Solid Edge for a few years now and have drawn and CNC cut allsorts from it, from full model kits to engine parts in aluminium. It is a very powerful tool but does take a bit of time to get used to. The help function is ok but I found using the program better. To cut a whole kit I found it best to scan in the bulkheads / formers / ribs etc from the plan in either jpeg, bmp or tiff format (Solid Edge accepts all these). Place the scan in the background using the insert function and trace over the top - then check with original plan. (This may help Richard Putnam?).
For plans in PDF you can get online converters to change file type to bmp/tif/gif/jpeg etc to help and repeat process above.
I recently drew and cut a kit of parts for a mate consisting of 134 individual parts and the whole lot took me about 7 hrs of CAD work.
I would very much recommend Solid Edge but also recognise that the best program to use is the one you know how to use....
Edited By Rob Ashley on 06/08/2015 21:17:18
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Perhaps acetone for the epoxy? Usually pretty good a breaking it down and cleaning up resins.
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Hi Jez, Nice looking model with a great scheme.
I built a 1/4 scale DVIII a few years back (hand painted the lozenge...!..) and remember mechanically dialling in 2deg (I think) of positive incidence on both ailerons to effectively provide washout, thus delaying the stall at the tips. This reduced the severity of the wing drop. If you wish I can look at the drawings and notes and get back to you with the exact detail?
Regards Rob
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Looking very nice HM, you have inspired me to finish mine after 3 yrs collecting dust. I have CNC'd a dummy engine which completely hides the OS 52 4 stroke and some of the cockpit instruments. I decided I wasn't going to lozenge having hand painted a 1/4 scale DVIII. That said I need to finish the 'tex covering on the top wing and the rib stitching....
Best of luck
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Brian,
Attached is a picture of the hinge pin detail from the plan. The hinge pin method is certainly one I have used on two 1/4 scale models (DVIII and Dr1) and is typical. The rudder is slightly bigger than A4 size so I will try to copy that at work tomorrow. I can send via email (would need you to message me your email address) so you can print or via snail mail?
On the plan, the cabane struts are bolted to metal rigging plates that are glued to hardwood strips inside the fuselage.
Hope this helps
Rob
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Hi Tony,
Is it the Baronette or the 1/4 scale(ish) Dr1 kit? I should have the 1/4 scale plan somewhere - I will have a look tonight.
Rob
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Hi Brian,
I picked one of these up from a swap meet and have yet to fly it. Sorry to say that this one that has not been modified to include ailerons - but I do not have the plans or info for the CG. I don't suppose you have it in the information pack in your kit?
Hope the build goes well.
Rob
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Chaps, Dutch Roll has absolutely nothing to do with the pilot. Dutch Roll is the natural response of the aircraft to gusts and the resulting roll to yaw couple. Some aircraft roll more than yaw whilst others yaw more than roll. It is always present just more or less noticeable in different aircraft. Hence one of the reasons for an autopilot, which is designed to null out the error. The aircraft does not tank slap like a motorcyle.
Transfering fromplan to balsa
in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
Posted
Dave,
I prefer the copy and stick to balsa or ply with pritt stick - this glue does not stretch the paper and provides a good template for cutting/sanding etc. Also it can be done from any printer you have at home.
Rob