Martin Whybrow

My Uno Wot has been flying for a couple of weeks now and I've been flying with an instructor at the club this weekend. We're happy with the general trim and have set up dual rates and expo so that I'm happy to fly it without it reacting faster than I can The one thing we have found is that, although it's trimmed to glide nicely, it climbs quite rapidly even at 1/2 throttle; one of the instructors has recommended a put in a bit of downthrust, but how much? It's powered by an OS 25FX which I have mounted at about 45 degrees, so the engine mount holes are in a diamond pattern; should I put 2 washers behind the mount at the top and 1 either side behind it across the middle so that the mount is still solid to the firewall?

Perhaps the connectors were designed for crimping; I'm not familiar with the type being discussed though. Barrel type crimp connectors have a hole in the side to enable the operator or quality man to check that the wire is deep enough inside the barrel when it's crimped, if you don't see any wire through the hole, the crimp is considered bad.

Posted by Martin Harris on 22/06/2011 15:37:49: As real as the CAA database entry  Might be the Governor, of course... Edited By Martin Harris on 22/06/2011 15:42:06 Don't think so, this explains why he's there and it's aircraft related.

I wasn't very impressed by the fit of the standard cowl that came with my Uno Wot, so I decided to purchase one of the replacement ones in glass-fibre from Carbon Copy. My cutting job on the old cowl was a bit untidy, so I decided I wnated a template for cutting the new one, so I decided to give vacuum forming a go. My LMS (Model Workshop in Wendy) keeps PET-G in approx A4 sized sheets, so I bought a sheet then cut a pair of frames from15mm MDF the same size as the sheet with a frame width of about 20mm and drilled through both parts in 8 places with a 5.5mm drill. I them placed the PET-G between the frames and drilled through that as well, then clamped the whole lot together with M5 screws and nuts. I drilled a large hole, the size of the vacuum cleaner pipe, just off centre in a slightly larger piece of MDF and used epoxy putty to attach as piece of 50mm square timber slightly longer than the depth of the cowl to it adjacent to the hole. this serves to support the cowl just above the base board. I made a gasket from 5mm thick high density foam the same size and shape as the frame and stuck it onto the base board with double sided tape with the piece of 50mm square timber centrally positioned.. I sat the base board on the wokmate with the vacuum cleaner pipe connected to the large hole. I put the frame on two 2x4 blocks in the oven, preheated to 160 deg C, and left it until the PET-G sagged below the bottom of the frame, then quickly took the frame out of the oven and placed it over the cowl an pulled the frame down onto the gasket with the vacuum cleaner already on. The PET-G quickly pulled down and I just needed to use the heat gome to deal with a couple of areas where the PET-G had cooled too rapidly. Ater a quick trim with the knife, I now had a transparent dummy cowl to cut up and use as a master for cutting the fibreglass one

Peter's made some very good points. However, there's an important thing to consider when looking at cell capacity, it's almost always calculated at a C/20 discharge rate, in your case that would be 105mA; discharging the pack at 1A will give a much lower measured capacity than it is rated at.

Another for 13 please.

I'm using some SLEC spring fuel pipe clips to make sure my fuel pipes don't come adrift, particularly on the sections that have parallel wall pipes (I've run small copper tubes through the firewall to avoid overly-large holes for the fuel pipes). The problem I'm having is that the clips seem to be designed for thin walled fuel tubing, but all the stuff I have is thick walled (about 5.5mm OD); the clips can be opened far enough but it's very tricky, they tend to squirm if I use needle-nose pliers to open them. What do you use (either to open these or alternative clips)?Edited By Martin Whybrow on 24/05/2011 23:52:36

I've just been fitting the supplied control snakes on my Uno Wot; this is the first time I've built a model using all plastic snakes, and I'm wondering how robust they are, especially in light of what happened earlier. In order to help me grip the inner part of the snake (clear plastic tube) when threading the 2mm metal ends into it, I wrapped masking tape around it; when I took the tape off, there was some residue, so I reached for the IPA and used that to wipe off the gunk. A couple of minutes later I looked at the inner and found the ends were white where I'd applied the IPA and the plastic had cracked and was now incredibly brittle. Given that methanol is considered more aggressive than IPA, I'm wondering how well these snakes are going to stand up to being smothered in glow fuel from the exhaust.Anyone care to share their experiences? And any idea what plastic these inners are made of?

Posted by Bob Cotsford on 30/03/2011 19:31:39: if you are going to film cover the wing, put a layer of masking tape over the glassed area, then lightly sand the tape, just enough to break through the surface. Film covering will stick well to the abraded masking tape, but won't bond well to glass so this helps stops the film lifting. Thanks for that Bob, I will do that.

Thanks for all the advice, it certainly is a helpful forum.The damage amounts to nor more than 2-3% of the bandage area and the individual damaged spots are small. I think the problem was that I went overboard with the resin and applied to much, causing the bandage to float as Dan suggested. I've flexed the wing and there's no sign of any movement in the bandaged area, so I'm now confident it's strong enough. I'll finish the area with light weight filler and leave it at that.

I'm building my first model in many years, an Uno Wot; this is the first model with a foam wing I have built and I think I've just run into trouble with the wing bandage. I applied the bandage last night and thought I had got it smooth and flat; howerver, on sanding it today, I've realised there were a few spots on the upper surface where the bandage was lifted and I've sanded through it.; the underside looks fine. My question is, will this have seriously weakened the structure (I'm guessing yes) and is there anything I can do to repair the damage (another layer of wing bandage?).