Grahamd

Thanks for the kind thoughts, the suggestions on the switch & wires have been digested, thanks.  Picked up my supply of wood yesterday at the nats, so I could get the wing put down. I also made up a servo holder for the main center flap I not only epoxied the servo blocks I also screwed them for extra measure

Thanks guys, I hope this thread is all about sharing tips and info, I'm just your average joe builder, I just happen to love building. I've had a play with the wings today, well the centre section, and the first thing I needed to do as its all ply and cyparis was add some hard balsa 1/4" x 1/4" blocks using CA (I can knock/cut these off latter), so I can pin the assembly down. I also drilled some extra holes in the center ribs for servo wires etc And using some more McDonalds plastic drinking staws threaded through the drilled holes, I have somewhere neat to slide my servo cables. By the way I just sussed out I need 10 servos in the wings alone !!!! Guess I'm deffo going to be going with a 6volt battery and at least 3000mha capacity.

I was amused to see the plan makes reference of a "FGlass" cover over the front top guns, yet no one offers one as a part So being rather a complex shape, I elected to use strips and plank the top instead.

I didn't want to trust my new baby to a damn slide switch, even if its claimed to be "heavy duty", so I'm going to use a nice toggle switch (with locking arm) rated at 6Amps. I got mine from SM Services, but you can also get them from RS Components. To switch it on/off you have to lift the lever over a gate, so its 100% positive, and can't be accidentally switched on/off. I also got some 6Amp multi-stranded wires in JR colours as I use JR radio, except I couldn't find brown, so black will have to do. After cutting and stripping off 5mm of the pvc covering, the strands are twisted to form a neat bunch. The wire was then "tinned" (applied solder). The wire is then cut and trimmed to fit into the copper recess in the switch (I'm using both Black & Red on the switch, so I'm switching both positive and negative), and soldered together. The center two terminals of the switch (+ & -) go to the battery, and the other two go to the receiver and the other two to the charger socket. Slide some heat shrink tubing over the wires and Voila

As the firewall is just barely thick enough, I've added an extra 5mm just for safety sakes. And have now installed the ZG45 so I can work out the plumbing and the throttle links (Eagle eyed viewers will notice the throttle arm has been changed to a more convenient arm).

I can't believe it took me on and off most of the day, well a few hours at least, to carve then hollow out the tail cone section from solid 2" block balsa. I've also started painting some of the inside.

Finished the sheeting of the exhaust ports today And made/carved the rear wheel housing

Thanks for the nice comments and welcome to my Dauntless build. I've now fuel proofed the engine bay and areas around it, as well as painting the inner exhaust areas matt black. Now I've sheeted the front side around the working exhaust ports. Couldnt resist just checking the cowl aligns with the guns ok.

Still sheeting the bottom of the fuz, but it looks like a Dauntless now

Just a quick update: I'm almost finished sheeting the bottom of the fuse, will try and get some pictures tonight

Blackburn models will sell small amounts http://www.blackburnmodels.com/upgrade/

Had a rather busy time this weekend on family matters, but today at least I got the fin and rudder installed so its looking like an aircraft now.

Nipped down to Mickey-d's for some fodder, and snaffled a hand full of straws, then used 5 of them push into each other to thread the servo wires down to the tail for the rudder servo. Also installed a large Snake for the tail wheel, got to get all this done before I can move on and sheet the rest of the fuse.

You've described Sundeala

Its all down to personal choices, if you want cheap, then plaster board is ok, but Sundeala does it for me, however if I redesign my workshop in the near future then I would like to try a Glass worktop.

Made a silly mistake, but luckily caught it in time !!! I had installed and screwed the rear wheel assembly in the wrong place, DOH (in my best ~Homer Simpson voice). As you can see by the red lines, I had to move the unit down, but luckily I could use two of the existing holes. Another bit of luck was being able to eventually remove the rear former so I could get at the thing..... Could have been nasty if I hadnt spotted it now, reminder to brain, think twice next time, before allowing hands to make mistakes... Still the rest has gone ok, I installed the CF pushrods using 3mm threaded rods, and large 3mm ball links. The other end goes to two servos (one for each elevator), although I've used the standard nylon servo arms to get the rods to the right length etc, I'll probably change these for Ally ones latter.

Here you go Arthur http://www.modelimagesonline.co.uk/

The board used by train people is Sundeala, it can be brought from Jewsons, BUT only in large 8ft x 4ft sheets. Try some model train shops, I got mine from Model Images, Letchworth. Great stuff, stays flat (screw it to a suitable hard board), takes pins (and you have to pull hard to get them out), best of all when the surface is covered in glue etc, unscrew it, and flip it over. If you look at my Dauntless build in Blogs you can see what it looks like.

Last night I built the wing seat area of the bottom of the fuse, this box like assembly went to gether like a breeze, and is very strong, yet light. Should be little chance of the wings not seating correctly (fingers crossed)

As I need to sheet the engine area, I've made the twin front guns today using 1/32" sheet balsa soaked in a 50/50 mix of water and amonia I get mine from Homebase amongst the cleaning chemicals. The wonder of a 50/50 mix is amazing. First step is to cut a length of dowel just under the diameter I needed. Now I took some 1/32" sheet balsa and SOAKED it both sides Now slowly wrap the balsa sheet around the dowel, just dont force it, if it wont go, soak it some more. Now I wrapped some clear tape around both ends, the tape wont stick to the wood (not only is the wood wet, the amonia attacks the glue), but will stick to itself. Leave for at least an hour or so, until 100% dry. Now before removing the tape, use a sharp knife and trim the two edges till they meet perfectly as a nice round circle. Remove the tape, and whilst holding the tube, apply some CA to the join. Just a simple case of gluing the guns in place now, and latter I will give them a coat of epoxy before sheeting over them. I also made up my pushrods as I need to install these before I sheet the bottom of the fuz. I got some CF pushrods (JP) and these nifty ally adapters from Model Images. These ally ferrules are threaded for M3, so nice and easy to join/link.

If I had the retracts (they are on order) I might have also done the wings at the same time, NOT.

Blimey these elevators have slowed me down, still better safe than sorry. Now on with the bottom half of the fuselage.

Oh I forgot to show you my brackets I made from G-10 to hold the ball joints I robbed from some M3 ball joint sockets.

Finally happy with the tail seating, I've fixed it to the fuse And today I've covered the elevators in Solartex, which will then be coated in a few coats of Poly-c (Well I did write the article on the stuff, so I better endorse my own findings), then rubbed down. Just for extra confidence I've also added some extra cross members under the stab, now the fuse has been removed from the building board. Next I hope to start on the bottom of the fuse.

A bit more sheeting around the tail area this time, having once again made sure the horizontal stab is level. This little box at the rear of the cockpit is the rear gunners locker, where the guns were folded into when not required.