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John A H

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Everything posted by John A H

  1. John A H
    I forgot to say at the start ….. when I build my wing jig I realised that the R1 level did not line up with the rest of the rib jigs, I think Harry mentioned this on his wing build. I glued a 1/16th balsa shim to the plasterboard under the R1 positions before glueing the jig down and it then lined up perfectly.
  2. John A H
    Here's how it looks from the wing underside with the release mechanism slots : and with the pylons in ready to have the drop tanks and bombs attached to them once they are built :
  3. John A H
    Here is the release slot positioned on the wing skin And how it looks when setup. The inner release wire stops the main wire been able to rotate so if the servo was connected directly to it the arc of the servo horn would cause it to bind or put stress on the servo. To solve this the servo is connected to the release by a ball link and short pull cable. There is then a spring between ribs 6-7 that pulls the release closed. This also has the advantage that when closed there is no load in the servo. The wires are setup so that with the servo in the mid (neutral position) the bomb release is "open" but drop tanks still attached : and on full travel both releases are open - so with half travel you just release the bombs and full travel will release both bombs and drop tanks. Releasing one set at a time might make them easier to find in the all consuming gorse bushes ! I will make up a custom servo horn out of glass fibre so that the opposite wing release has as straight a pull as possible.
  4. John A H
    The inner pylons need to have a slot cut out so that the release wire for the drop tanks can pass through it without stopping it releasing. The inner release is done using a short wire soldered to the main release wire going through the second hole
  5. John A H
    I created riblets and pylon keels for the releasable wing stores (drop tanks and bombs). The release slot is made from 1/16th balsa riblets with 1/32nd ply facings on the inside faces and a 1/8th ply spacer glued to create a slot. The pylon keels are made from 1/8th lite ply. Drop tanks position is between ribs 8-9 and the inner weapons on is between ribs 5-6 (for true scale the bomb rack position should be further out but I thought it looked more balance with them further inboard. Parts laid out : riblets glued together : and with pylons slotted in (fillet of 1/16th balsa used to take into account the lower wing skin when drilling holes for release rod.
  6. John A H
    I used the same carbon paper method to transfer the plan (spar and rib positions) onto the wing skins. To get the leading/trailing edge angles on the wing ribs I measured the angle and then used my Lidl mini bench sander to sand the ribs, sanding a little at a time constantly checking the fit.
  7. John A H
    As we have so many blogs I'll just post where I have used a method that I haven't seen anybody else use. To build the wing jig I pushed the boat out and dedicated £4 worth of plasterboard to the job. I lay a set of overlaping pieces of A4 Blue Handcopy Carbon Paper over the plasterboard, ping the wing plan over the top and then draw over all the wing jig, spar, wing rib lines and you end up with this :- Then build and glue the wing jig onto the plasterboard. This method saves having to make gussets to keep the jig assembly square and also means you don't need to worry about sticking it to your plan.
  8. John A H
    For a change I though I would start the PSS build in good time to attempt to avoid the "still painting the night before the PSS meet" scenario again. Colour scheme I'm thinking of is this one
  9. John A H

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    John A H posted a gallery image in Member Albums

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    John A H posted a gallery image in Member Albums

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    John A H posted a gallery image in Member Albums

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    John A H posted a gallery image in Member Albums

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    John A H posted a gallery image in Member Albums

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    John A H posted a gallery image in Member Albums

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    John A H posted a gallery image in Member Albums

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    John A H posted a gallery image in Member Albums

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    John A H posted a gallery image in Member Albums

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    John A H posted a gallery image in Member Albums

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    John A H posted a gallery image in Member Albums

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    John A H posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  23. John A H
    Posted by Steve McLaren on 19/11/2019 21:11:53: What size servo do you plan to use? and does 1 servo do both tanks? I'm trying to visualise the geometry of pushrods meeting the servo. I used a Hitech HS65mg servo for the drop tanks on the A4 Skyhawk. I located the servo in one wing (so you don't have to cut into R1). Bend the pushrod (or pullrod !) diagonally up to exit the wing skin with one side going to the "front" and other side going to the "back" of the servo horn. I initially fit the wire before putting in ribs R1 and the ones outboard of the mounting - means you can slide it in and out of position while messing about trying to get the "line" and bend. Hopefully the pictures make sense of above comments - holes in ribs reinforced with 1/32 ply.
  24. John A H
    One last option to suggest. The West Wings Swallow kit can be built as free flight or as Radio Control with a rudder and elevator and it has flat bottomed wing ribs so a bit easier to build. I don't think West Wings are trading at the moment but some model shops may still have them in stock. If you buy a kit you could make copies of the fuselage parts incase you wanted to make an RC version after the Free flight one. If you struggle covering with tissue you can use light weight iron on films on these models - Litespan or SolarLite from the Solarfilm company work well. They still have some available on their website. Litespan looks like tissue so still gives you a retro look (you need to use Balsaloc, also from Solarfilm company, to stick it to the airframe using an hot iron which is also used to tighten the material).
  25. John A H
    If you are looking for a FF glider then Ripmax have just started producing Keil Kraft kits again and they have the Caprice and Invader models. Steve Webb models have them on their website. Belair also produce some laser cut parts for FF gliders but you will need to by extra wood and get hold of the plans for some. If you go down that route the Mercury Gnome is an easy build and very robust for your initial attempt - you can down load the plan from OUTERZONE website.
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