Jump to content

Stuart Rusby

Members
  • Posts

    37
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

Posts posted by Stuart Rusby

  1. Hi Danny. I have a query or two about your valuable article in the September RCME mag where you describe your work on the Fury oleos, including the shrouds.

    I bought two such oleos from Hobby King which I now find are not long enough for the job, some 160 cm overall needed, and they also have limited displacement as the spring is too stiff. I am assuming each leg supports about 5lb and the required deflection, according to the plan, between the loaded and unloaded positions is about 3.5cm.

    I would be interested to know where you got your oleos from and whether they are about the above length and provide a comparable load displacement. Also it is not clear from the article how the attachments are made to both the 8 SWG.top wire and the 10 SWG axle. Any assistance greatly appreciated.

    My progress has been slow, but I think sure. The airframe is complete and I have started covering with silver Oratex. This is coming on well, with a heat-controlled sealing iron the job is very enjoyable and the material is easy to work with. I have also completed some of the metal sheets for the 'the front end' in litho. Incidentally if anyone wants any litho give me a call.

    Best wishes to all,

    Stuart

    .

  2. Your advice again Danny. From Sheet 1 of the plans it would seem as if there is an air gap under the fin when it is glued to the fuselage, above the tailplane. Since the tailplane is at a positive incidence of about 4 degrees this might be there so the incidence can be adjusted. However since the fin and tailplane are glued in place it would be difficult to readjust this incidence. Am I right in that there should be an air gap or perhaps I've got it all wrong!

    Stuart

  3. Hi Ernie. That is kind of you. Perhaps you would lighten the background, I think the diamond was off-white, so the colours of the cock would also be stronger.

    Perhaps you would PM the final version to me in as high a resolution as the transmission allows.

    I thought if I get a number of the class interested we could keep the price of decals etc. within bounds!

    Thanks, Stuart

  4. I have been in touch with Nigel Wagstaff of Flightline Graphics re the possibility of him providing decals etc. of K5674 at Duxford. He says this is possible but he would particularly need a detailed image of the cock on the fin of K5674 to do a good job.

    I wonder if Martyn, Tony, Danny or any other member could PM me any such image and I will pass it on to Nigel.

    He has recently moved house so there will be a delay before the new workshop is up and running..

    I have given him a few images of my own to start him thinking...

    Thanks,

    Stuart

  5. I have been doing a bit of research regarding wing-rigging accessories. It maybe of interest to some members of the gang...

    I found the following:

    1. Prime-Miniatures (www.prime-miniatures.co.uk) for:

    shackles, turnbuckles, eyebolts, Al swaging ferrules, miniature 7x7 stainless steel wire rope, etc.

    2. Model Shop Leeds (www.modelshopleeds.co.uk) for:

    Sullivan gold-n-clevises and Dubro 4-40 rigging couplers.

    3. Topmodel (French) (www.topmodel.fr) for:

    miniature turnbuckles etc.

    4. Tecni (www.tecni.uk) for:

    double copper swaging ferrules for miniature wire rope

    5. Vogelsang Aeroscale (USA) for:

    miniature cable thimbles, etc.

    I can recommend the Prime-Miniatures steel wire rope; it is a miniature 7x7 construction and surprisingly flexible. I wouldn't think it would need thimbles. The Sullivan clevises are high quality with a safety-lock, but they need the Dubro 4-40 thread couplers (not metric).

    Anyway just a thought...

    Stuart

  6. Hi Danny,

    Many thanks for the advice on F6, I will 'fettle away' and I'm sure it will fit.

    The aileron construction went OK, if somewhat laborious. As you may see from the photo I fitted a 1.5mm carbon rod to act as the shaft for the hinges, threaded through a v-cut in the back of the 1/2 inch balsa curved shrouds. To ensure correct alignment of the aileron with the wing the rod was threaded before I glued the hinges in place. Any ideas about securing the outboard end of it will be welcome!

    As you can see I went to town on the wing servos, having experienced too much 'chatter' from some cheaper makes.

    Following Andy's good example I will fit webs to the wing spars, particularly as they are of balsa.

    Cheers, Stuart

    img_0037.jpg

  7. Many thanks Andy for all the trouble you took to show me so clearly your intended layout of the wing servo mounting. Because the drive axis is at right angles to the bellcrank axis the end of the servo arm will be below the wing covering and the drive to the aileron horn will be roughly parallel to the underside of the wing. This geometry should be OK, I think, although the horn arm will be at an angle to this drive shaft..

    I have used Hitec HS-85MG wing servos on my 1/6th scale Mick Reeves Spitfire to good effect after I had problems with cheaper 'Chinese' servos. The new MacGregor MG2611WHV 11Kg.cm high voltage looks very interesting, also its slightly smaller twin the MG2107WHV 6.6Kg.cm version. They would appear to have a high quality specification.

    Stuart

  8. I was perusing the Peter Warburg drawings taken from the original Hawker Siddeley Fury1 production drawings (approved by Sidney Camm) and came across the following useful wing info:

    Top wing: dihedral 1 degree, incidence 3 degree 20 minutes

    Bottom wing: dihedral 3 degrees 30 minutes, incidence 3 degrees 50 minutes.

    I shall 'press on' with using litho, I love the really shiny parts of the Fury.

    Stuart

×
×
  • Create New...