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Stephen O'Neill

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Posts posted by Stephen O'Neill

  1. Thanks Danny for that early video of the maestro. I take your point regarding the reliability of these hinges and the fact that they are scarce would support that argument. Its only because of my recent enquiries, having first inspected the DP plans, that these hinge issues have come to light.Thank you also for the link to the RCU build thread as I had missed that one. There is plenty of info there that has not been covered in other build threads.

  2. Thank you Max, I will wait to see if he replies. Its really a longshot for me because I am gathering the components I will need to build a Dave Platt FW 190 and the Swingee is what he recommends for the rudder. Even if two of these hinges were fitted, it would still be lighter than putting a servo in the tail.

  3. Has anybody had any luck in tracking down these Precision Secret Horns or PSHs? I searched the RBC kits website, since they went to the trouble of contacting Danny Fenton in his "True to Life" article on the current home page, but unfortunately I cannot find these "swingee" hinges. I tried twice to contact RBC Kits by email but unfortunately nobody is answering. I also checked the Kavan website, who were the makers of these hinges, but they are no longer featured on their website.

  4. Hi gents, I am about to start a build where Aliphatic or carpenter's glue is recommended. I have not used Superphatic before and was wondering is it actually a good alternative to Titebond Aliphatic or just a convenient one, without the fumes, to CA. My main motovation for using a wickable adhesive is so that I can dry assemble as much of the fuselage or wings as possible before finally gluing it and I would like to be confident in the knowledge that the joint will be as strong as a normally glued Aliphatic joint.

  5. Hi Steve, that is the best one stop modelling tool shop I have seen and they have a set of small combo spanners that I was looking for. Ernie, I take your point about the Proxxon. I am currently at work at sea and I was checking the various tool distributors at home on line but obviously I had not seen that one that Greybeard kindly checked on. Tools, like most imported goods, are generally a bit more expensive at home then on mainland Europe or the UK but it will still be cheaper than shipping one from the UK. Trevor, I fully appreciate what you say about not knowing how you managed without a sander. It is because I have been reading through build threads and sites like Airfield Models that has conviced me to add the sander to my tool inventory and no doubt it will be more than a "nice to have". Thank you all for your help and information.

    Steve

  6. Thanks Linds. I started looking on line for a Minicraft Sander and it seems they are no longer being made. You can get plenty of accessories for them including discs so I will have to bide my time till I find something. Around this time last year I was going to purchase a scroll saw for about 140 GBP and have it shipped to my home. I just happened to walk into my local Lidl store and I got a Parkside Scroll saw for 69 Euro.

    Steve

  7. I have been wanting to buy a bench disc sander and I have not been able to find one where I live. The price of shipping one from the UK is nearly the price of the disc sander itself. Has anyone tried the Mincraft Mini Disc Sander? It looks light enough to be shipped at a reasonable cost.

  8. Hi Peter and thanks for your input.As always, you have come out with some very good information. The only spec info I have is 6A 1000V however the shop I bought them from is a local electronics supplier with a good reputation. I subsequently took the measurements with the receiver and servos connected up and it had the desired effect with a reading of 6.58V and 5.86V before and after the diode respectively. I have not had my tester calibrated but I expect it is near enough the mark as it is a new Graupner clamp meter. I will double check with a new field tester I have and let you know.

    Again, many thanks gents!

    Steve

  9. I was reading an article in a magazine recently where the writer was experimenting with the use of gyros to stabilize the aircraft . Having checked to investigate the subject a little further by going on line, it seems that the use of these gyros is quite widespread amongst the 3D flyers. My own personal interest in the use of gyros, as discussed in the magazine article, is to smooth out the unwanted movements caused by wind and turbulance and to make the model fly as scalelike as possible. This can be achieved by connecting a low end gyro to your rudder, elevator or aileron servo or one on each if you wish. Then there is the gyro that will cater for all 3 axes. Since this is all new to me, I checked out the price of a 3 axis gyro on the Powerbox Systems website and it is prohibative. I eventually came across a reasonably priced (relatively speaking) 3 axis gyro called The Eagle Tree Guardian 2D/3D Stabilizer and it seems to have a high reputation. The downside is that there are no more available till next Spring. Has anybody got views or experience on the use of these gadgets and are they as good as some are saying?

     

    Edited By Stephen O'Neill on 05/10/2012 13:13:37

  10. Hello again gents. I am seeking some more of your good advice. Frankly, I am a bit confused with the connections etc on the 2S A123 battery pack I have purchased. The leads on the pack are: JST-x4 balance connector, a Deans Ultra female and a JR lead. This is going to be the RX battery and the reciever will be a JR RG631B. This is an IC engine installation. My charger is a Graupner Ultramat 16S. Can anyone explain the connection arrangement I will be using because I bought a power supply cable with switch and charger hook-up and I am wondering will I need to put an adapter on the Deans Ultra in order to make a neat charging socket on the model.

    Thanks in advance,

    Steve

  11. Thanks Darryl, I dont want to come across as reinventing the wheel because my lack of knowledge and experience on the subject has me asking these questions. It looks as though no one is manufacturing 4-stroke engines in the range between 45 and 52 so I would say the safe bet is to go for what already has been tried and tested and just go easy on the throttle. The ASP 52 is certainly great value for money with an output of 0.95 hp and the closest contender is the Saito 56 which believe it or not is slightly lower at 0.9 hp.

    Thanks again Darryl for your help.

  12. Thanks for all of that gents. Well Darryl, that rules out the RCV. I did notice on Tony Nijhuis' video clip that the plane was flying quite fast and I believe he was using the equivalent of the ASP 52 FS. I had contemplated using the Saito 56 which is similar in output but 45 grms lighter and so I understand that weight would have to be added to achieve the correct balance. I am just thinking aloud here but would it be feasable to use a Saito 40 which would hopefully help the plane to fly a little slower but then another 150grms would have to be added to make up the right weight.

  13. I have recently purchased a TN Lysander kit and will start building at the end of the summer. I have seen some very good information on this forum so I am hoping there will be enough experience amongst you to be able to advise on the choice of engine. Is the RCV 60 too heavy, as it weighs in just over 600 grms with the silencer?

    Thanks in advance

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