YakMad
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Posts posted by YakMad
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I have used them often and received a delivery of spares for a Freewing L-39 from them last only week.
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My current all round sports model is a Avios Zazzy but my most flown model at the moment is a Freeewing Avanti 80mm EDF
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Have a look at their quad copter props, I had a similar issue with their Hyperbype, ended up buying a pack of of quad props, when they arrived they were nearly identical in design
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I did research before buying the Wayne Giles and compared it to the Revolectrix which was only available from a supplier in California at the time, I did like the look of it but decided on the Wayne Giles and have been very happy with it, another club member bought one at the same time and is very happy as well.
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I bought the Wayne Giles meter from Hobbyking, I consider it the best money I have spent on the hobby in a very long time, apart from IR of the whole pack you can test it cells IR, it also displays the max continuous amps that you can pull from a pack. I now have all my packs labelled with the actual discharge C rating and the Max amps and I have been getting better performance form my models as a result as I can see at a glance which packs can deliver the amps required by the model. It's amazing how no high C discharge packs (60C plus) I have tested come anywhere near their stated discharge rate, most are half or less and most low C (20 C) are very close or in some cases more then the stated discharge rate. All my packs are now performing at their best for longer as none are being pushed beyond their limits.
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I have used the ESS Sense sound system in several models, it sounds ok on the ground but is lost in the air, the sound level is just to low, I even tried it in a twin foam model, the sound level was still too low to hear any proper sounds when the model is flying, the supplied transducers are just too small, I have also had problems calibrating it. I think you would really need to spend a lot more money on a decent sound system if you are serious about getting the proper effect, mine now resides on the bench.
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Tony is that a switch change warning or simply a pre-flight warning, if it's the latter pressing the roller switch should clear it, you can also go directly to the model select screen by holding the roller switch down as you switch the transmitter on, it will at least allow you to select another model memory
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My FT Edge flies very well but the motor mount is a weak spot and needs to be stiffened up, I made a triangular gusset out of foam board which I glued to the firewall between the bottom of the motor box and the cowl, I also reinforced the firewall as after a few flights it too was flexing. I have also built the FT Dart which has taken alot of abuse and is still intact although looks a little sad now, i would agree that they are much more capable of taking hard knocks then traditional Balsa or even foam models but they don't fly as precise as either but as the foamboard costs so little mine do get flown a lot harder.
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The method I used to retain the servo leads for the rudder and elevator in my Wargo Yak is to cut a thin slot for each wire in the fuz and push the servo wires into each slot, I have also done the same in the wing for the aileron leads
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I built a Variant 2, many years ago, the instructions were not great but you had the option of the elevator servo in the fuz with a snake type linkage or in the fin which is where I installed it as the snake linkage was just hopeless. I still have it, it flies extremely well although I did have to adjust the incidence of the tailplane as it was moulded into the top of the fin incorrectly.
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Dave,
Thanks for the update, so instead of Horizon going back and fixing the problem with the electronics they took the cheapest root and stuck a ferrite core on to mask the problem, so extremely poor development testing done on their part as this should have been one of the first power tests they did, test other batteries and fix the root problem. I haven't bought any Horizon products this year even though I have a DX8 and DX9 which have been trouble free although I've had problems with their 6 and 7 channel rx's and several Blade heli's which after sorting out build issues with them all fly well but I've lost fate in Horizon after the mess they made of the move to German distribution this year.
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I have a Reichard Variant II which performs much better then some of the fully moulded gilders at our patch which cost twice as much although I did have to reduce the incidence on the tailplane to increase the speed range.
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Take a look at the Max-Thrust Lightning about half the price of a FunRay quick on a 3s battery, can be upgraded to 4s with a motor change although mine has a very good turn of speed on 3s
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Max Thrust Lightning gets my vote, no vices, much better then the Blizzard and there is a 4S motor available from RC Castle for it although it's fairly quick on 3S which I fly it on, had mine for over a year no issues.
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The 645's which gave me problems were not happy on a 4.8 volt battery pack either which I couldn't figure out although I have had voltage drop thru switches before which could have been an issue but on a stable 5 volts they were fine, it was just the two servos on the ailerons which caused the problem, so they could have been from a batch with an "improved" amp.
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I use a lot of Hitec 645 servos, I was having a similar problem to you with them in one particular model, I tried everything even bound the model to another TX, still the same. I tracked it down to a voltage problem, they didn't like any voltage higher then 5 volts in fact they preferred a steady 5 volts, I resorted to using a 6 volt pack with a heavy duty BEC set to 5 volts and the problem went away.
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I was looking at getting a 130s but I think I'll wait a while, I wonder is there a bug in the Panic/Recovery software or a power problem with the inbuilt BEC. Let us know Dave if you get to the bottom of this.
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Niall,
I have a couple of 610 rx's they have all been reliable, Model Heli Services in Clare have them in stock **LINK** , probably work out similar price to ordering from the UK when you take into account the expensive Royal Mail postage but you will get almost local support from them.
Edited By YakMad on 05/01/2017 09:13:31
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If it's the JP Glow with the Red Plastic cover/grip I would recommend opening it up (split the plastic cases at the welded seams) mine decided to fry itself at the field one day and only the fact that the very low grade wiring inside melted, stopped it turning into a blob of plastic. When I opened it up I was stunned at the poor quality wire and the shocking soldering, the meter was toast as well and I am amazed the thing worked for as long as it did. I found out the problem was the wiring was so stiff that the brass contact which engages with the top of the glow plug was being pushed forward and shorting out against the external body of the glow clip. I replaced all the wiring with silicone insulated cable and replaced the meter from an old glow start and it works perfectly now. I passed on my findings to the online shop where I bought it but heard nothing back from them. I've had a few glow starts from different manufactures lately and all seemed very poorly made.
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This is what I use, a fireproof safe
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I've used CA but more recently I have been using the Foam-Cure EPP EPO glue and the Clear Foam Glue (Mucilage) which do appear to give a stronger bond then CA.
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oldgit,
Looks like you may be looking at a cached copy of the website, I am not seeing that message this morning, try clearing out your cache, by the way I am using Google Chrome.
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I placed an order for some Lipo's and receivers the other day, the process was a bit long winded compared to the old site as having to select the warehouse at checkout is another step where that things could go wrong, mine kept defaulting to the USA West warehouse
and showing the lipos as out of stock but once I selected the UK the order went through, just checked the tracking number, the order is on the van for delivery this morning, here's hoping everything is in it. -
Lots of broken links
HK Skycat?
in Electric Ducted Fan
Posted
I maidened my Flycat last weekend it had the nice turbine sound I have come to expect from 12 blade fans it was not screaming like Dom's. Engine Doctor is right it just needs to be re-balanced, I did it recently with a 80mm FMS 12 blade which was screaming, took a little while but well worth it as the nice turbine sound has returned.