YakMad
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Posts posted by YakMad
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I use 13x6 G-Sonics on all my Saito 72's (I have six 72's at the last count) and they are an excellent prop and impose less of a load on the engine then the same size APC prop, your choice of a G-Sonic 14x7 should be perfect.
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I use an APC 14x6 on my Saito 82 as well, which is in a Great Planes Reactor, I did fly it with a 13X8 for awhile but had the same expierence of the model landing too fast. Must take a look at the JXF props. The RV-8 is going to be one quick machine with that engine, I have an OS 55ax in mine and was surprise at the models spped considering the stubby shape of the model, try to get as much flap as you can as it really slows the landings down with no trim changes.
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Peter,
I flew on Southwest Airlines many years ago in the States and they had some of the seats facing backwards which I did use but I don't think they were thinking of the safety aspect it was to facilitate meetings I believe as they get alot of business travel.
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I thought they said they needed a very high decendent rate for the test not a "this is your pilot speaking, sorry I forgot to flair before landing." Amazed the sand did'nt stop the engine but a little water did, I thought jet engines were designed to fly in rain
. I wonder how much "TV" funding went into that test. -
If you want to stick with Futaba I would recommend the Futaba 8fg, it has proper glider mixes unlike the 7C which has limited mixing and no way to update the software.
Edited By YakMad on 11/09/2012 14:32:58
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BEB,
Have you checked out Electricwingman for GensAce batteries, I found he was cheaper than GS for 3s 2500mah I was looking for and very fast shipping.
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This sounds like a sticking cam follower, I would strip the engine down and check them to ensure they are not marked or damaged as I had to repair a club mates ASP 120 fs when one jammed in his engine at high speed and destroyed the timing gear and deposited lots of metal filings into the crankcase.
@Maritn,
Thanks, it good to see someone else agrees that good tools are the most important part of doing maintenance on engines.
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I have had stuck valves on a couple of four-strokes, it's usually down to hardened fuel deposits on the valve stem, the only long term solution is to remove the head and remove the valve and clean the valve stem do no try to "hammer" the the valve into submission, generally "OS" type four-stroke heads bolts are easy enough to remove just make sure you use a good quality allen key.
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One of the club members won a Hanger9 Twist 60 in the club raffle at the annual fun-fly, I know its one of their cheaper models, but he was putting the box in his car we noticed a small white label on the bottom of the box which turned out to be the manufacturers label which stated that the kit was produced by Seagull models in Vietnam.
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Gary,
Sounds like you may have a faulty AR6200, I would suggest sending it to Horizon to checkout I am on my second one, after they replaced the first one as it developed a fault were the main rx was showing as unbound (flashing led) but the satellite rx still had a solid led, even after re-binding it. Its the only Spektrum rx I have had problems with and like you I have alot of DSM2 rx's.
Edited By YakMad on 07/08/2012 08:54:27
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I downloaded the very first issue when it came out. It looks impressive but it suffers the same fate as most of the US based mags, they look great, plenty of photos but not really much info, I won't be subscribing to it.
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Adrian got there before me, must type faster
although I would still recommend changing the front bearing. -
Use heat agin to get the main bearing off the crank, wait for the crank to cool before the putting new one on, you should replace the front bearing as well as there is no point not too as you would have to strip the engine again to replace it if needed in the future, when you heat the crankcase to remove the old front bearing have the new one ready and insert it while the crankcase is hot, you should then also re-fit the crankshaft with the new bearing on it at the same time. I have small hole drilled in the bench so that I can rest the front of the engine over it, support the front bearing and allow the crankshaft to protrude thru the hole as you may need to gently tap the crankshaft into place to seat the main bearing, I use a short length of dowel and a small hammer to do this.
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Steve,
You need alot more heat, I've only had one liner stuck in the head and that was in a friends old ASP four-stroke, I found the best solution for me was to use a small camping gas stove with a nice hot blue flame, use a heat proof glove of large pliers to hold the engine while you keep the head in the flame, the heat gun never worked for me as it's too difficult to get a enough heat into the engine. Try to get the engine as clean as you can before using my method as burnt fuel makes a mess.
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I had the same problem on only the second flight with my Seagull Yak, I re-attached the head by key hole surgery so as not to damage the canopy by trying to remove it. The very next flight the body part of the pilot then started to come away and as the pilot is made of very brittle plastic it was not a clean break-away, it was only stuck to the sticky film base. My solution was to cut around the base of the pilot keeping as close to the outline of the pilot as I could so I could extract the pilot thru the bottom of the cockpit. I repaired, repainted and added support to the pilot by running a short length of dowel though the base and up into the head, the model has now flown numerous time since without a problem.
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Scott,
In an earlier post I asked, would HK UK be shipping to the whole of Ireland soon? which you kindly replied that you would be and it should be sorted within the next few days. I just tried to purchase a Dynamic S glider from the UK store (as there is only 9 left) and I am wondering are you any closer to being able to do this as the system will only ship it from Germany and at a cost of $26 for shipping!!!!!! I won't be ordering it..
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Scott,
Does that mean you will ship to the whole of Ireland soon?
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Then they should have stated UK not GB, anyway after all the hype the opening is a damp squib with little or no stock, this is after months of promising container loads of stock just waiting for a suitable warehouse. I got sick of waiting until the "UK" store opened to replace some of my lipos and looking at the current stock levels I am very glad I sourced them from another supplier.
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Great they finally open it and will only ship to GB......??????
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Gary you are right Horizon in the US can convert the DSX9 to DSMX but as MacGregor do not distribute Spektrum in the UK they cannot offer thje same service, as DSMX is Spektrum. I have a DSX9 for years and to be honest I don't have any worries about DSM2 and I fly in a large club in a large city and have not had any issues in the years I have been using the DSX9.
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I use hardwood blocks on the firewall as mentioned by Paul, I also re-enforce the holes in the cowls buy gluing CA hinges on the inside of the cowl over the already drilled holes and then re-drilling, stops the hole enlarging thru vibration and finally I use semi-clear silicone washers available from Maplins so when I tighten the screws the washers slightly deforms which prevents the screws backing out. The washers are only slightly larger than the screw head and are not really noticable. I have never had any cowl screws or cowls become loose using this method.
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Its already been flagged to Horizon.
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Hazy,
My recently purchased DX* with 2.04 firmware does this as well, the only solution for the moment appears to be to use the "Back" button to exit the mixing menu rather then scrolling to list and pressing to exit.
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Carperfect,
All the engines are from the same company.
Saito Fuel
in IC Engines
Posted
Saito's love nitro I use 20% in all my Saito's, the 82's do perform much better with more nitro, more power and much smoother running, make sure you also use an OS Type 'F' plug and not the supplied Saito one as it's too cold for our less than warm climate. I use Optifuel 20% two stroke blend in all my fourstrokes up to 125 size.