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Den Moran

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Everything posted by Den Moran

  1. Thanks, boys - I've done all that, and now I have written to the manufacturer. I'm puzzled as to why the stick signal splits normally through the 'Y'- lead, and the gyro signal reverses on one side! They are cheap enough, but I'll wait until I hear back from them before making a final decision! Cheers, and thanks for the advice, Den.
  2. Hi,everyone, I put a cheap gyro in a P47, and the ailerons come up at the same time, instead of one up, one down. The rudder and elevayer act as asked. The aircraft controls are in bog standard mode, and respond correctly through the sticks. Anyone had this problem,please? Cheers, Den.
  3. Thanks , Nigel, and sorry for the confusion! John, that's absolutely nailed it for me, just what I was after, I'm afraid I'm a little challenged with electronics side of our hobby! Happy flying! A great response as ever, thanks again, Den, Swansea
  4. 'Does that still need a wiring diagram?' - I'm afraid it does, Nigel, because I want the power supply to the servos to be independent of the main Lipo, otherwise there is little point in using a BEC, other than in large capacity situations.
  5. Hi, everybody! I have a Dynam Me 262 - the type has had problems with the ESCs overheating - there is a good vid on youtube showing one catching fire in the air (luckily only minimal damage) ! I'm looking at emplacing a BEC system, to offset the overheating problem, and need a wiring diagram for a TWIN setup. I know about ducting air over the esc's etc., but, really, I'm just asking about BECs for twin setup. Thank you, Den, Abertawe.
  6. Thanks, Manish, but turnbuckles are a bit too weighty for this aircraft. I looked up the fishing supplies, and they have 'figure of eight' flat pieces, which, if I bend them slightly, will be ideal. Thanks every one, Den.
  7. Thanks , everyone. I thought someone would know how to do it, is all. Den, I have/know those points/fittings, and thank you for that. The only bit I didn't know was ' A protective resistor is required sorted VI/R' ? Cheers , Den. Deafness - Good point is I cannot hear people calling me names!
  8. Hi,everyone. As my hearing gets worse, I find I cannot hear the buzzer on my transmitter, unless conditions are absolutely perfect, so I would like to fit an Led light (connected to the buzzer) on the outside of my transmitter. I'm ok with the soldering etc, and the polarity, but would like someone to tell me the correct wiring/diagram. I suspect its a straightforward 'loop'with the bulb in the middle, but not all sure! Cheers, Den, Swansea.
  9. I agree about the 'top tip'! As the four 'v's' come to single points, I've decided just to tension using the 'Spanish cramping' method, i.e. twisting, to take up slack, as I don't want/need the wires bow tight. As usual, a really helpful response from everybody, cheerio, Den, Swansea.
  10. Thanks, everyone. As the rigging is functional for this particular aircraft,, a necessary part of the wing support system, I'll go with the fishing wire et al, and use soldered crimps. It's the brackets that are key to avoiding all that drilling and shaping. My hands aren't up to too much of that these days! Cheers, Den
  11. Hi, everyone, I'm rebuilding the wing support system for a Hobbyking Flybaby (44" w/s), and need to make up the wire support system. The system leads upwards from the axle ends to two bolts through the wing, and these bolts feed wire back to the single fuselage point above the wing. My problem is sourcing fittings that will carry the wire, (sourcing) the wire itself, and secure it to the fixing points. I know I could make them, but as there are twelve of them (three under/three on top of each wing) I'm hoping they are a manufactured item. The bolt size through the wing is 4 mm dia.. The upper fuselage point is secured by a self-tapper (although I'll probably bolt this with 4mm nylon bolts) . I don't even know what these fittings are called! Help! Thanks, everyone, Den, Swansea
  12. Hi,everyone -this is really for 'everything flying'! I'm reading about Amy Johnson, and her epic trips, and I wondered - does anyone have any idea of the range of a DH Gypsy Moth, please? Cheers, Den, Llangyfelach.
  13. ...and that reminds me of the 'Dual Ace' that's sitting on my shelf, waiting to be flown - that has 'normal' rotation!
  14. That's honest of you, Piers! Thanks. That's a fast looking aircraft, Martin - good luck with it. Den
  15. I'm convinced! Outward it is! I may need a stable gun platform if we loose at the Arms Park on Saturday! Thanks again, everyone, really helpful, and as usual, an impressive knowledge of our hobby shown by all, I can't count the number of times everyone has given me sound advice, makes it a great hobby!
  16. So - tomayto, tomahto! The engines/motors are mounted on the fuselage parallel axis, Jon, and I have no argument with that. But now I have two suggestions for completely opposites! The counter rotation towards each other makes sense, any variation in torque effect being thrown 'inboard', so to speak. I'll probably go with that one.(after I make up some cowls, wingstruts, and aileron rods!). Thanks, everyone, Den Swansea.
  17. Hello,everyone, I'm putting together a Guanli Catalina which has been in its box for a few years, and have found out that it is supplied with reversed props (unlike the motor cowls, struts, and rods !). Can anyone tell me the 'correct' placement of the CW and CCW props on the left or right wing please? Thanks, Den
  18. I'm there! The gain on the right side pot was the culprit - I now have the elevator control surface level in all switch positions. There isn't much response from the elevator in any position, so I suspect that the rod/horn settings need to be revisited. It was such a relief to see the elevator flick back to 'horizontal' ! Thank you very much for your time, patience and expertise, it certainly made me feel that there was a solution to the problem, and it would have taken me ages to arrive (if ever!) at this point. Diolch yn fawr, Den
  19. Hi! I checked that the 'position ' is correct in the manual - here is a photo ( 'flat' : I swopped the elevator and rudder leads, and sure enough, the rudder did the same thing in switch three 'auto-balance' position.So it is a gyro setting, not the elevator servo. I then did a level reset in normal mode - same result. Ditto in auto balance - same result.Here is a photo of the aircraft at rest: all else seems ok?
  20. Hi, Den - One last thing (I hope!). I've made great advances in my understanding of this unit, and have now successfully setup using 'Mode' 2 - Normal, off, and Auto-balance on my three-way switch. In switch position one,Normal, the throws are correct. In switch position two, all is off, correct. and now the oddball - in switch position three, Auto balance, the throws for the aileron and rudder are good, but the elevator is going to the end of the servo travel when switched on ( the aircraft is 'at rest' on my table, so no positional or attitude change has taken place). Any ideas on this one,please? Cheers, Den
  21. Hi, Den This a.m. I tried again, and got as far as your advice line ending in '......disconnect this for now'. No result - just a continuous flashing red light. So I decided to carry out a 'factory default' reset. As my granddaughter says ...' This is tricky', because you have to depress the little black control button on the unit, keep it depressed, and THEN connect the battery - not easy with an XT60 connector! Having done this, I discovered that Robert was my mum's brother, and the unit went back to 'normal' - showing the blue light. Then I carried out the further lines of your advice, and found out some interesting things: a. The pots need a really small slot head screwdriver to turn them, but you have to be patient and find the 'ends' of the travel , clockwise and anti-clockwise - at the centre of this travel its the null point - no movement of the relative servo will occur. b. I now saw a tiny movement (from the rudder) when I turned the aircraft, and, after further tweaking the left hand pot (aileron) I got that moving as well. The elevator didn't move, but it's servo did,so that needs investigating, probably an old servo where the arm isn't gripping. Both the aileron and the elevator needed to be reversed, but following the instructions for that is easy, and for me, it worked.So I now have the gyro doing its job. I still don't know what happened to demand a factory reset, but, hey, as long as it worked, who cares?! I know you are well up on this unit, but I have described my setup in case some other poor sod comes across the dreaded 'Continuous flashing red light' ( akin to pc blackscreen, I suspect!), and casts his household into sackcloth and ashes mode! Thank you very much for your help, not for the first time, I know, and I'll let you know how it does in the air, and if I'm brave enough to try a 'mode 3' setup! Diolch yn fawr'to, Den
  22. Hi, Den, yes,yes,electric,Lipo,yes at the top. So, the flashing red is - what? It's not mentioned at all in the manual, or any of the videos I have seen. I'll try going back to factory default tomorrow, I have cleared any 'mixes', as per, and everything seems in order, I just can't get back to the 'normal' mode blue-light status. Cheers, Den.
  23. Bother! I've been trying to set up a Hobby Eagle A3V2 gyro, and the manual is optimistic, to say the least! I now have a continuously flashing red light? I can move from it into the 'selection box' , but when I try to get out of that, it goes back to a continuous flashing red light. This isn't mentioned in any manual or video, and I'm a bit stuck? Help,please? Den
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