Steve Hargreaves - Moderator

Thanks guys...some interesting ideas there....I shall have to get eating the cornflakes so I can pinch the box!!!!!

Anyone got any tips on cutting ARTF type cowls to fit around the engine/silencer.....I always seem to make a bit of a hash of it...particularly getting the needle valve in the right spot. I know it can be done better but I'm devoid of ideas....any thoughts before I hack into my new Pitts Special cowl!!!!!!

Yeah...I'm more of an ic man myself although I do dabble in sparky flying. The cycling issue is more for my Rx packs than anything. LiPos tend not to have a memory or self discharge much so I'm not concerned about them...nor my e-flight batteries to be honest.....if they get a bit tired then you get shorter flights but with still enough power to operate the servos after the power cutoff activates & you can land the thing...a dodgy Rx battery can really spoil an afternoon though if it curls its toes up part way through an enthusiastic bit of aerobatting

Thanks for that Colin.....I have a Hyperion EOS5i that I can just set & leave....at 0.1C cycling 3 times is gonna take some time!!!!!!!

Ever mindful of the dreaded black wire corrosion I try & keep my batteries (e-flight power packs & Rx/Tx batteries) charged when not in use however to rejuvenate my batteries for the "New Season" I reckon a good "cycling" is the answer & here I finally get to the point......What sort of voltages/currents should I use? Should the discharge cycle cut off at 1v per cell..? 1.1v...? 0.9v.......??? & what would be a suitable discharge current relative to the battery current?? 1C...? 0.1C??? & finally how close to the nominated capacity should a battery get to be considered good?? I reckon poor battery maintenance is the main reason for many crashes & the last thing I want to see is a much loved model hit the dirt 'cos some numpty (ie me!!!) didn't look after his cells properly!!!! All thoughts greatfully received.....