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Harry Glover

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Posts posted by Harry Glover

    Marginal excess AMP draw?

    in Power System Selection

    Posted

    Brian, dont assume that I have no intention of listening to advicefrom posters, and as I said in my post, I'm 82yo, and prefer to keep things relatavely simple, and follow a simple 'learning curve'. Your advice has been noted (amongst others).

    BTW I dont bet (if that was the meaning of the £5.

    Harry

    Marginal excess AMP draw?

    in Power System Selection

    Posted

    Thanks Brian for your view. I shall still try to get the Amps down by changing props, and if that does the trick, and eventually fly's the model I select, then that will be sufficient for me, and I would still have a Amps "reserve/buffer" if things do not turn out as hoped. A sort of Max/Min envelope.....mebbe.

    Harry

    Marginal excess AMP draw?

    in Power System Selection

    Posted

    10 hours ago, Peter Jenkins said:

    Harry

     

    I've found that taking current draw readings with the aircraft tethered gives an artificially high current draw as the motors are kept stationary.  If you have on-board telemetry, that will be the best way to find out what is being drawn while airborne.  

     

    As an example, my set up has a 10S power pack and a Hacker Q80 motor rated at 2,800 watts.  I use a 3rd party on-board telemetry module (Link) that can be set up to talk to almost any radio, and this gives me my data.   When I did a ground power check, I briefly saw 3,600 watts and 99 amps at full throttle.  Needless to say, I closed the throttle pronto!  However, in the air, the maximum power I have seen, and then only once after slowing the aircraft down to almost stalling speed then applying full throttle and flying a vertical upline, was 2850 watts and 80 amps.  The normal maximum I see is 2750 watts.  I conclude therefore that using on-board telemetry will be far more useful than trying to check current draw/ power with the model tethered.  The UnisensE is very light (10-20 g) and small and well worth the money.  You can move it from model to model to check all your other models as well.

     

    Whilst you can test on the ground and reduce the power draw to not exceed 10 amps, once in the air, your power train will be up to 25% below what it is rated at.  If the performance you get is fine then that's OK.  If power is less than expected the best way forward is to check the power/current with  airborne telemetry.

     

    Peter, your last paragraph probably describes perhaps the way to go for now, I would have to learn more about telemetrey before diving into that aspect of our hobby.

    Thanks Peter

     

    Marginal excess AMP draw?

    in Power System Selection

    Posted

    Thanks Gents for your prompt replies. As both ESCs are conected to the battery on a Y lead, I shall test each motor seperately to determine their draw on the test rig.

    The motors, ESCs, props are from 4Max Value Pack x2 and I note that the motors are rated at 10A. I ran them for probably less than a minute each time. I shall get some smaller props and try them, and if I can get the total draw down to 20-25A and  all works out ok, I shall then figure out a suitable twin motor model to put them in,

    Once again, thanks gents for all the help and advice you have given me.

    I shall let you know how I go on in due time. Thanks

    Marginal excess AMP draw?

    in Power System Selection

    Posted

    I am in the process of learning how to set up twin motors as follows:

    2x brushless 22x12 1400kv motors with 8x6 props

    1x 3s 2200 35c Lipo

    2x 30A ESCs

     

    Using a Power Meter the amp draw is 35A on full power

    My question is the 35A draw the sum of both motors or the draw of each motor.?

    Ran motors at full power for very short periods. No smoke, no smell, no heat.

     

    Also occasionally from No1 or No2 motor (not sure which) I  hear a not very loud 'crack' sound similar to an elecrical short. No heat. No smell. No smoke. No change in motors performance.

    Can anybody educate me as to the above. Please keep it simple. I am 82 and minus a few brain cells (joking)

     

     

    Undercart in relation to c of g

    in In The Air

    Posted

    On a  "tail dragger" monoplane, where should the undercarriage be mounted?

    A. In front of the c of g?

    B. On the c of g?

    C. Behind the c of g?

    The question may seem basic to many, but I am in conflict with my self as to the best position.

     Any guidance is appreciated.

    Decided on a new flying direction

    in Gliders and Gliding - General Discussion

    Posted

    To continue my effort to get back into gliders I have ordered a MPX Easy Glider4, which has been  strongly recommended. I have in addition to this purchased Lemon 7 Chanel DSMX Stab Plus rx, but I am having trouble understanding how to programme it. The writing on the rx is extremely small, and even using a torch and a magnifying glass it is difficult to read. Instructions didnt come with it, I have contacted the seller, but as of this time I have not yet recieved an answer, but I am hoping someone here could meanwhile help.

    Harry Glover

    Decided on a new flying direction

    in Gliders and Gliding - General Discussion

    Posted

    22 hours ago, leccyflyer said:

    Another recommendation for the Easyglider - it's a marvellous model and it thermal soars better than it has any right to. Agree completely with adding some stripes under the wing to help with visibility. The Easyglider rigs very easily with nothing more needed than a friction fit of the foam wing roots onto the fuselage and wing tube. It's very simple to knock up a wing bag from plastic foil-backed insulation wrap for hassle free transport to the field.

     

    Decided on a new flying direction

    in Gliders and Gliding - General Discussion

    Posted

    28 minutes ago, Graham Bowers said:

    For RTH without too much complexity you could try a ZOHD Kopilot Lite. I've just been experimenting with one and the RTH works an absolute treat. I have around 10 flights on it and have even tried the RTH from an inverted orientation. A limitation is that it only has one aileron output, that would necessitate a Y-lead to 2 aileron servos. My trial installation has been on an old electric flying wing, so the control surfaces are elevons. There is a bit of a learning curve and the manufacturer's instructions are not comprehensive, however Painless360's channel on youtube has the information I needed to get it working.  There's no plugging it into a computer or anything like that. The setup is all accomplished by a plug-in setup board.

     

    It does offer stabilisation, but that's not of much interest to me. I have tried it, and the control surface movement is so small that turns are enormous. that's probably a setup issue that could be overcome, however I don't intend to address it at this time.

     

    For me, next steps are to move it to a Bixler that has a 4 servo wing, however that's not at the top of my project list. However my understanding is the ailerons would need to be on a Y lead, and the flaps would be driven direct by the receiver. So complex mixing of ailerons and flaps for crow may not be possible - however that's a path I've not yet trodden.

     

    Edited to add, the Zohd lite is a flight controller that is used in addition to a receiver. I use FRSKY radio gear and connected the Kopilot Lite to the Receiver with using sbus. I can't comment on Spectrum compatibility, however I'm sure your reading will point in one way or the other, if you choose to follow up on this.

     

    https://www.zohd.net/_files/ugd/9960f7_82868356a2bd4c259bf39a21d8184c7c.pdf

    Thank you Graham for your reply. I would have to read it again to take it all in, and the information may just be beyond my understanding.

    Decided on a new flying direction

    in Gliders and Gliding - General Discussion

    Posted

    25 minutes ago, Wookman said:

    Easy Glider RR is the way ahead if you are restricted for workshop facilities. The Heron and Solius have 4 servo wings which may be a step more than you need or want.

    As for return to home, that's your job. I am sure that with 30 years experience, landing within walking distance is not going to be an issue!

    Put some foot wide black stripes on the bottom of the wing to aid visibility at height.

    Thanks Wookman for your input, it seems Easy Glider is the better recomendation for my needs, especially in regards to work space available now that I have a much smaller shed.

    Btw I was referring to RTH in case the model got inadvertantly too far away for my eyes!

    Decided on a new flying direction

    in Gliders and Gliding - General Discussion

    Posted

    I have decided to take up thermal soaring again after a period of about 30 years of sport and scale flying. Things have moved on since then and now I need to be brought up to date. I envisage I would need a glider with the following spec:

    1. An ARF of about 100 inch ws (2 seperate wing panels because of my small car)

    2, Electric (because of convenience and my age (Im 81)

    3.A RX which has Return to Home (just in case!) and is compatible with Spektrum Tx

    I have tried to find something which would cover my wishes, but the more I searched, the more I simply became more confused, and therefore decided to ask the forum of their view.

    What do you think? Am I asking too much, or should I do more research. Any recommendation of model, Rx and anything else to get me going, would be appreciated.

    Thanks, 

    Harry

     

     

    Lemon DSMX stabilizer

    in Beginners

    Posted

    Have managed to make it function in the recognised manner (ail,el rud), but cannot figure out how to switch between that and gyro function, using a Spektrum DX9. I have not any instructions, and I'm not tec minded, and unfamilier with this type of our hobby, can anybody point me in the right direction to solve this?

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