Andy G.
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Posts posted by Andy G.
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Happy new year to all!..
Thought it was about time I did a bit of an update on this. Progress was a little stalled due to being forced to wait for Christmas day in order to get my hands on some of the hardware for it.. servos and the replacement motors etc.
Well, the day has come and gone, all the turkey has been devoured, most of the booze consumed and finally back in the workshop. First issue was with the new motors, you'll remember hopefully that the one original electric motor I was going to use fitted nicely in a cage mount and was the perfect length to fit the nacelle. Well, the two replacement motors, although identical in power and Kv rating won't fit using cage mounts. They are too long. So, two plywood stand off mounts have had to be made and a little bit of fettling done around the leading edge of the wing inside the nacelles to get the thrust lines right.
The old motor had the shaft out of the other end, these motors are reversed and I have decided to use them with the bolt on prop adapters for additional security, a prop coming off in such close proximity to the fuselage could be interesting to say the least!
The arrival of the Hitec servos has allowed the cutting away and forming up of the 4 servo housings in the wing to be completed. Longer servo extension leads have today been ordered. Spent today rubbing down and filling hanger rash marks on the upper wing surface and forming and fixing1/32ply blanks inside the nacelles where the cylinders of the original Thunder Tigres poked out so that thes openings can be closed off..
Next job is to give the wing top surface several coats of P/U varnish then cover it with heavyweight tissue before finishing the work on the underside of the wing. This is mainly to try and prevent additional rash damage to it as at least some of the scratches and dings I have been filling today have come from working on the wing. It's a bit big for my work bench and consequently tends to catch on bits and bobs that are around the work surface.. I know I could be tidier, but.... I'm not and so I have to live with the consequences of my clutter..
More updates soon!..
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It may be helpful to contact your local club and get some first hand guidance and advice.
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My FW190 arrived yesterday lunchtime, (5th Jan), superbly well packaged. Opened up the large box to find it well stuffed with parts, hardware, engine mount and even a tank! Plus of course a multi page instruction leaflet and a plan.. I am very impressed with my prize and the great service provided by Daren.. Thanks !!!!!
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I recognise that plan!!! Lol. Good to see you've started your Red Eagle build. I hope you have as much fun with it as I do with mine.
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Many thanks Daren! Truly pleased to have won this A great start to to the new year!!!!!
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The landowner where our club flies has indicated that he only wants fixed wing models flown there so no multi rotor or helicopter flying . We do fly small m/r and copters at our indoor meetings though.
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Posted by Robert Parker on 21/12/2017 10:35:21:
John, the name you are thinking of is "One Time".
I do use it as well as One strike as Dennis has put up in the above post.
Both work well and a tub lasts for ages. When it dries out just add a little water and mix it in and your good to go.
Regards
Robert
Rather than adding water I revitalize mine with Poly C or the equivalent polyurethane floor varnish. I find it works well and seems to make the filler a little more resilient.
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Due on the 22nd I believe.
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That's one of the guys that was always in the early Flite Test videos.
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I wouldn't recommend using a regular sized starter on such a small diesel engine, if you're slightly over compressed there's a very real risk of seriously damaging the motor!! Small 1/2A size starters are o.k. if you can find one otherwise it's a chicken stick or a thick glove.
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Posted by onetenor on 12/12/2017 00:36:18:
Is that a second comp screw in the head If so why?
Edited By onetenor on 12/12/2017 00:40:06
Onetenor, that's a locking device to stop the compression screw backing off when the engine is running.
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That's nice Tony! Be following this one.
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Hi Chris, maybe my spare motor could go into one of the Chichat hovercraft! Though at 540 watts it may be a bit of overkill! Lol
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Thought it was about time I did a little update on this refurb..
Well, as predicted, progress has slowed somewhat, been mainly carrying on with mundane jobs on it, or the mirror image jobs that I had already detailed. So, both sets of flaps and ailerons are now cut free from the wing and blocked out, and the wing t.e blocked out. One pair is near finished, the other pair is waiting shaping and profiling. Been working on creating a route through the wing ribs for all the wiring, fairly easy on the balsa ribs, but the root ribs and the ribs either side of each nacelle are ply, and it's tricky to get a drill in close enough, but slowly getting there. Not an awful lot of room for the wiring, so he decision on whether to put the esc's in the nacelles or the fuselage has sort of been forced on me, they are going out in the nacelles, to lessen the wiring through the ribs!
A sort of 'major' blow came when I went to order the second motor ( to match the one I already had left over from a previous abandoned project). Went onto the 4-Max website to order, only to find that although the part number is the same, the spec had changed! .. So,after a very useful phone chat with George at 4-Max, the only option was to order TWO NEW motors..
No pictures in this post as they are all pretty much the same as previous ones.. Waiting now mainly for my Xmas presents (servos) so I can push on with the wing refurb..
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Anybody aware of the double left fuselage build?...
Hakuna matata
Chris
BRU - BE / CTR Interfaces Control
Double left fuselage build??? Ha! You're looking at the guy that once built THREE right hand wings! .. :P
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A Cox Bee type motor outputs around 40 watts .
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Hi Jason....
Glad to have helped out with plan and good to hear you are almost ready to go on the build! As for covering , I did mine from film I had in stock, it's done in a mixture of Solarfilm, Oracover and HobbyKing film. I find the HobbyKing covering very good, especially for the price.
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Looking Very Dazzling! Tempted to put one of these on my build list!..
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Hooray!.. New window is installed in the workshop, and it's warmer in there now! The tidying up, well... I started with good intentions, it was going to be so much tidier, no, honestly it was.. I promised! ... But.. well, you know how these things go! I did run around with a dustpan and brush, and I did chuck a couple of models and some other junk out, but then the rot set in, so it was back to normal!
Then a few other life issues held up building ( and flying) activities
Anyway, the BN2 refurb has finally restarted again. Working from a 3 view I figured out where I would cut the door into the fuselage for battery access, It's not 100% scale position or size, but it looks sort of right. The opening was marked out then the door area cut free. The opening was framed out inside for strength and using the access now available a strengthener was fitted on the adjacent internal fuselage side. The rear of the door was fitted with a cross grain doubler and a diagonal brace to keep it straight and true. I realised at this point that maybe my enthusiasm had preceded praticality and that I should have considered how I'm going to hinge the door before I added the frame/doublers etc. Still, it's not an insurmountable issue, just annoying.
The next job was to take on gaining internal wing access for wiring to the motors and servos, again, as I have no plan, I pricked through the wing sheeting with a pin to find the rear spar and then cut a slot through the sheeting running forward from the spars. This went surprisingly easily. In order to maintain strength and also to provide at least one bearing surface for the replacement sheet I added a vertical grain web between the top and bottom rear spars.
The next phase was online, searching out suitable servos for the wing and ordering up servo extension leads and silicon covered wire for the power wiring out to the nacelles. The servos (4 Hitec .HS-85BB ) have been added to my Christmas list, so won't be fitting those for just a while! The servo extension leads were ordered up but, when your sat at the PC and you're used to thinking in imperial units, 250mm ( a quarter of a metre) seems quite long! Sadly of course, I should have measured the actual length required out in the workshop first. The leads, which arrived from Airtek the next day were sadly far too short! Ah well, they'll come in useful on another project.
A few pictures next,
Aileron has now been cut free as well as the flap. Wiring access slot cut through bottom sheeting.
Rear of wing blocked in for flap mounting.
Door opening cut out.
Trial fit of the wing! No, Only JOKING! That's actually the wing from my Sharkface which is just slightly smaller than the BN2's tailplane! This is what happens when Idle hands start tidying up!..
Once again the build has pretty much caught up with the blog so postings on here will probably slow again for a little while..
Hope it's still interesting though.
Edited By Andy G. on 17/11/2017 10:32:05
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I've built several foamboard models, although not flite test ones, but have learnt a lot from their videos. One of the main points is that you really need a BIG hot glue gun, particularly for the bigger joints otherwise it's set at one end before you finish applying the glue. How to avoid the dreaded glue strings? Well that's a nack I haven't acquired yet! One thing I have learnt is........ Don't smooth the glue joints down with your finger, it HURTS!!!!
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Elliot..
There's an app which you dowload to your phone/tablet what ever, called Mobuius action cam , or mobius tools.. It allows you to set all sorts of parameters on your Mobius camera, The most useful one for you in this instance is where , when you put the mobius into stills mode, it allows you to set the time gap between stills, I fly with mine set for one shot every 15 seconds... The app has lots of other really useful parameters too, especially one that lets you invert the video image at source, so you can mount the camera upside down ( for ease of access to the control buttons) under your plane and not have to flip the video in an editing programme afterwards..
The mobius is self powered, so no need to worry about what airborne power you have, you just need to purchase a micro usb lead to plug the mobius lead into your tablet/phone..
Some stills from my mobius here..... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ie2lL-hmjXk
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Well, workshop is currently piled up in a big heap, awaiting arrival of the window guys on Thursday, can barely get in there now! So, very little activity until at least the weekend, can't even get to the bench to charge any batteries..
Still, I guess, it will give me an opportunity ( excuse!) to have a tidy up and even chuck a couple of old models out..
But... at least my fellow forumites have convinced me not to worry about a steerable nose wheel, I was pretty sure I didn't want to do it, and you have convinced me!.. Thanks.
Hopefully get back to normal by the weekend.. ..
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Use the Mobius app to take stills at so many second intervals, much better pic quality!
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Progress has slowed a little bit over the past week or so, as the blog has been slowly catching up with the build, plus real life has been a little invasive as well, and set to get worse. I'm having a new window fitted in the workshop this week, but of course masses of my modelling stuff plus several models are in the way, so I'm currently trying to build up the enthusiasm to go and sort the workshop out!
That said, there has been some progress, the flap that was cut free, has been stiffened and it's hinge edge blocked out and sanded off at an angle, as has it's mating surface on the wing. Out of the workshop I've been googling images and 3 views of the fuselage in preparation for marking out windows and doors. I intend to make one of the forward doors openable to gain access for the lipo battery rather than having to take the wing off or have a hatch underneath somewhere which on this size of model really isn't practical.
Having flown most of my RC time using either tail draggers or hand launched models I need to ask advice here. Obviously the BN2 is trike arrangement, and this one having been originally built for control line flying has a fixed front wheel. The front leg is solidly built deep into the nose block and it would take considerable 'surgery' to gain access to it to change it to a steerable unit and link it to a servo. What's the consensus here?.. Do you think it will ground handle ok with a fixed wheel, I don't really want to have to give the fuselage a major nose job!. Taxying out and back into the pits isn't too much of an issue where I fly, the model can be carried to a suitable take off point and recovered by hand again after landing if need be, so it's mainly an issue with keeping straight during take offs, and landing...
Thanks..
Chris's Vicomte 1916
in Vintage Kits, Semi-Kits and Plan Projects
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Hi Chris...
Loving the quality of those parts! This looks like being an interesting build. I have to admit the aircraft is not really my 'cup of tea', but luckily I can appreciate a good build when I see one..