Simon Clark
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Posts posted by Simon Clark
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Hi,
I think that this will do what you want:https://www.4-max.co.uk/gt-pd606-charger.html
You will need to program it in the first place for battery type and charge current, but once done then it will remember so all you have to do is plug the balance leads in to start the charge.
Please note, that I have not actually used on of these, but I do have a HK knock off (no longer available) that works in this way. I cannot be absolutely certain that it will work, but it certainly looks like it will
Good luck
Simon
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Hi - I don't know the answer to this myself but if you cant find out how to do it easily then contact Mike Ridley at Model Radio Workshop - he knows just about everything to do with JR radios:
https://modelradioworkshop.co.uk/contact-details/
Simon
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Hi Dave,
I've got a T18SZ and a couple of R7008SB. I always set up in 18ch mode and mostly use digital servos but some analogue Hitecs on throttle etc. Definitely works with these no problem. Same also applies for R3008SB
Simon
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36 minutes ago, Nigel R said:
Ergo you can trust them as much as you'd trust a phone call to the same person?
Not sure if this was meant to be flippant or not! If you phone someone and ask a very specific question regarding stock level, they will check on that specific item and you can expect to get a very accurate answer. It is very different for anyone to expect that the stock level of every single item is updated at all times. I usually have no idea about the stock level of my fridge at home but if my wife asks me specifically how much milk is left, then she will get a very accurate answer!
Let's stop bashing these people who are doing their best to help us with the hobby that we all enjoy so much - we will all be very sad if these shops decided to close because they got fed up with negative comments.
Simon
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Hi,
If you don't want to use the Spektrum recommended ones (A6180) which are around £32 I think then Savox are always a good bet. This model is reasonably large with big control surfaces so I would go for a metal geared servo. The Savox SC0254MG seems like a good option and is fairly cheap:
https://servoshop.co.uk/index.php?pid=SC0254&area=Servo
Simon
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Hello David,
I use this setup with my T18SZ on a number of models. If a Lipo is at 14.3 to 14.4V when measured under no load then it may well drop below 13.6V when the motor is running. The amount it drops under load depends on a number of factors including your flying style (if you use a lot of high throttle for long periods then the battery voltage will drop more). It is also affected by temperature and the condition and life of the battery (old ones will drop more volts than new ones). To a certain extent you can find the correct alarm voltage by trial and error (and I do this) but you should not use as the only trigger to land and expect to have to adjust your alarm voltage a bit if you change the batteries.
Hope this makes sense
Simon
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Hello,
It is much more difficult than some might think to be certain that stock levels are automatically updated and always totally accurate. If you will only order from shops that always have 100% accuracy in their stock levels then you will have a very limited choice of suppliers indeed. I use KLMS as well as many others on a fairly regular basis and found that they always give a very good service and their prices and delivery are usually the cheapest for most things. As others have said, if it is important that you get the items quickly then always phone first to check the stock levels, if you can afford to wait for things then go ahead without checking.
This applies to pretty much all online shopping not just model shops.
I will continue to use and support KLMS
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Hello
Full span ailerons do limit your options. If adding flaps is not a practical option then you could also consider removing the inner portion of the ailerons and re-fitting them to the wing in a fixed position, then using up aileron can be used more effectively as a brake. Of course this may be more difficult to do than say.
I would also definitely look at the engine / prop setup - it is amazing the problems caused be high idle and high pitched props. I would try going down a bit on pitch as has already been suggested, maybe a 12x6 or 13x6. Also try to get your idle as low as possible. I always use on board glows with this type of model and this allows me to get a very reliable low idle and I have found this to be the most significant thing to make landing easier on this type of plane.
Good luck
Simon
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Thanks Alan - that seems to be good news
Simon
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Has Morris gone out of business? - Although there is an advert in the latest RCM&E, the website seems to have disappeared. I hope this is just a temporary website issue as they have a lot of good stuff for petrol engine owners.
Anyone got any idea?
Simon
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Hi Tom
Many engines of this size had the same exhaust fixings - in particular the OS FX40, AX46, AX55 etc and the SC/ASP 40, 46 and 52. Many of these are discontinued or low stock but I think Just Engines have some OS46AX exhausts in. I suggest that you give Just Engines a call - always very helpful.
Good luck
Simon
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Hello Richard,
On the point of capacity, I agree that you will typically only use a fraction of it in a day but do remember the C rating - I know that Martin measured his JE at around 40A stalled but I have just measured mine and get around 50A on 2S so on 4S it would get close to 100A! I have cut the leads right down to just a few centimetres and so there is very little external resistance so this might be affecting it a bit, but even so, bearing in mind that C ratings are often over stated by the manufacturer, I think that the battery capacity will be limited by current rating. As stated before, I have found that a 1400mAH pack works well and a 1000mAh pack should be OK but I would not go much below this - is there any point?
Regarding the storage charge level, I have to admit that I used to be very lazy and just keep the starter Lipos charged between sessions, but after this winter, they were pretty knackered and needed replacing so I now religiously put all my Lipos into storage at the end of each session regardless - possibly unnecessary but I think it is not a bad habit to get into.
Simon
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Hello,
Are you certain that the TX is actually telling the RX to send the -125% when the switch is closed? Normally the ESC will only arm if the signal it receives is below the minimum throttle level, so how do you arm the ESC and when you do, what does the motor then do?
Simon
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I agree with Martin that the JE starters are the best for the money. There is no doubt that the switches are a weak area but this applies to all the starters I have seen, including the expensive Sullivan ones. It is very difficult to predict if a switch will weld and to explain why one starter seems to suffer more than another. It is not commonly known that these switch contacts will actually weld every single time on closing without exception, it is just that in most cases the weld is weak and is easily broken by the mechanical opening force. If the weld is strong or the opening force is weak, then the contacts will remain welded. There are a whole host of factors that affect the weld strength and seemingly small differences can have a big effect. I think that I have been lucky and never had a switch remain welded but I am aware that this could happen which is one reason why I connect the batteries to the starter with a connector so that they can be quickly isolated if needed. I have always intended to investigate the possibility of upgrading the switch assembly but I have never got around to it - maybe this discussion has given me the push required to have another look at this.
Simon
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Hello Richard,
Of course it depends on how much flying you do, how many people borrow your starter (being a self contained unit does make it very popular to borrow for all those whose starters or batteries are not quite up to it!!) and how easy your engine starts! I used to use 1000mAh packs but these got a bit old and I knackered them by leaving charged over a winter (bad move). Even after a fairly heavy days flying, I never got anywhere close to the capacity. The choice of capacity is more to do with the current delivery ability - I am sure that a 500mAh would have enough capacity but it might not like delivering the high currents unless it is a very high C rating AND in good new condition. The final choice of 1400mAh was more to do with availability and price at the time and you can go a bit bigger or smaller without problem. The 1400mAh pack is still quite compact and light and does not get in the way or feel heavy in any way but you could go quite a bit bigger if you had to. I have just checked and the ones that I use are still available and cheap: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-1400mah-4s-65c-lipo-pack-w-xt60.html?queryID=cd29d1cff0fec9f355fc9ebde828d21b&objectID=78391&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products
Good luck
Simon
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For what it's worth, I have two Just Engines geared starters. One is the 4:1 gear ratio version with standard sized spinner cone and the other is the 6.5:1 version with the large spinner cone. I use both with 4S LIPOs that are detachable and held with a velcro strap and connected with an XT60 connector. The larger one is used for 20-33cc two strokes (petrol and glow) and the smaller on is used for everything else. With 4S they both have bags of power and work really well. I have tried the smaller on with 3S and this is OK in most cases BUT it does not spin the engine as quick and for one (and only one) of my smaller glows, it does not start as easily due to the lower speed.
I charge the batteries before each session and discharge to storage level between sessions. Do not be tempted to use old and knackered batteries as a starter actually puts quite a load on the battery - it is only in use for a few seconds and in a whole day of flying will only run for a very few minutes but when it is running, it takes a lot of current, so you don't need a particularly high capacity but you do need a reasonable C rating. At the moment, I am using Turnigy 4S 1400 65C to good effect.
Simon
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Hello Dick and Eric,
Thanks very much for your swift responses, both of which are invaluable. I should have searched through all the other posts first as there is already a lot of info there as you point out. I think that I have everything I need now except for the opportunity to go flying!
Thanks again
Simon
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Hello all,
I have been flying power models (some quite complex) for many years but i am now setting up my first proper motorised glider and i am looking to see how people tend to set up the controls. It is a Composite RC Edge 1500 which I guess could be described as a hotliner (maybe). It has flaps and ailerons. I want to use all the features such as camber and crow braking and I fully understand how these work BUT I am not sure about the best way to control them. I had thought about setting up one flight mode for general flying and another for landing where the crow brakes come in at low throttle setting and the motor only active at high throttle settings.
I have a Futaba T18SZ so a lot of setups are possible. I am quite used to using various mixes and flight modes etc. but what do people usually do for gliders?
Thanks for any pointers
Simon
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Hello all,
Has anyone got any experience with this new petrol engine? I have a piped OS GT33 in a pattern ship and am looking to increase the power a bit. On paper the GP 38 claims 5 HP compared to 3.9 for the GT33 but I don't know if this is an optimistic exaggeration. If it is definitely significantly more powerful than the GT33 then I will buy one but it is a lot of money to spend without being sure.
Any comments re this engine would be much appreciated
Thanks
Simon
Max Thrust Riot linkages
in Build Blogs and Kit Reviews
Posted
Hello All,
Today, one of our trainee pilots who I am helping to learn on a Riot had a crash. I was not at the field at the time so did not see what happened but concensus of opinion from those who know was that the elevator linkage failed caused by a weak clevis. Has anyone else had this problem and does anyone have a suggestion as to a stronger alternative that will fit on the wire pushrods, or any other suggestions to make this stronger. I have to say, that I was originally sceptical about the Riot, but having seen a few and flown it now, I think that it is a superb trainer that can also do a bit more fun stuff with higher throws etc so it would be good to know how to make it better.
Thanks
Simon