Concorde Speedbird
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Posts posted by Concorde Speedbird
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No issue, mine did this when running in. It will stop doing it after more running.
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Sorry Mark, I have been tied up with work recently. Hoping to get back on this soon, I've done some more but not posted yet.
I asked century jet to do the retracts like that to match the plan, and I believe they offer the electric conversion. They're pretty heavy, I might try to get lighter oleos at some point.
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If you need any picture of my one for help then I'll be happy to provide, I have plenty of time!
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My granddad built one which I currently have, very nice aeroplane with a Saito 56.
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Wahey
Initially when I placed it on the board I thought it was horribly twisted. Then I realised I had not factored in the fact that the wing was partially sheeted. Once I had, then I checked and it's probably the straightest wing I've built. Pleasing! Stiff now too.
Next is to build the other half of the wing onto this half.
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Making jigs to turn the wing over.
And then turned over...
And now glued. The mug row is on a bit of wood on the jig tabs to maintain straightness. I'm confident it will be straight when revealed. Next is either to do the other side of the wing or make the flap and aileron for this side, not decided yet.
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This may be of use: **LINK**
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Still lifting a bit at the front but more than good enough. Glued it now.
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Bit more
Front centre section done with the famous Mustang leading edge starting to exist
As the designer specifies on the plan, the d-box is skinned from the outer retract rib to the tip, and then the wing is flipped over and the same done there. This stiffens the wing but leaves access to the aileron and flap areas. There's a great build on RCSB ('Mustang second time around' ) which I'm copying extensively, and he found this method worked as long as the wing is jigged when flipped to skin the other side. So I'm going to copy! I made up the skin...
...then wetted it and put it in position (no glue). I will leave it overnight, take the magazines off before work to let the wood dry fully and glue tomorrow night. Never bothered doing this before, but making an extra effort to improve quality with this (even rejected the first wing skin I made due to an unsmooth finish!)Edited By Concorde Speedbird on 02/03/2020 21:32:43
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Shear webs on
Not bad for a weekend's work.
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Thanks all, and thanks for the advice Rodney. Cuban I agree, in many ways I find it a more elegant design than the Spitfire.
Bellcrank for flap, I guess most would just use 2 servos nowadays.
Working around the wing...
Waiting for some centre section parts to dry, might get more done this evening.
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PVA set faster than expected so I got the top spar on tonight.
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Been a while due to many other things getting in the way, but now I am getting started properly on the Mustang.
Wing ribs glued to the lower spar. I usually put the top spar on immediately, but for this it seemed best to do this prior. Made one mistake by glueing the ply wing joiner on the rear of the spar rather than the front, but I can just mildly change the design so it's not an issue.
More tomorrow to give the pva a chance to set properly.
Jacob
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Never flown model gliders, but I do enjoy using thermals to take me places...
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I've just measured mine and with one half of the wing flat on the board the wingtip has 1 and 1/4 inches under it (so 5/8" under each tip). Sounds more than I expected, a little less would make minimal difference to flying characteristics. I'm pretty sure I just joined it at the angle it fit best...
It's a great aeroplane, been flying mine consistently for 7 years now and it still flies really nicely. Please do update us on your progress.
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Thanks Jon, which retracts did he use? I've got oleos for mine and the eflite units seem really good, no slop in the locks and nice operation.
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Hello Dave,
I have not progressed much on this mainly due to work and other projects. However, I still intend to build this and have all the bits ready to go. I have a hangar 9 hellcat artf on the go at the moment (intended for flying practice with a similar sized warbird) and once that is done I will carry on with this.
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Thanks John. The extended rudder is only a feature of the Mk3 and Classic models, amongst other modifications. The wingtips on my Wot 4 are the plastic moulded ones from a Mk2 kit from over 30 years ago! I'm sure a twin wot would be great fun.
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It's the Buttermere valley in the Lake District. It was earlier in the year, hence why there is still snow on the peaks.
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Bit of a delay, I've been fairly busy doing quite a bit of this
But I've kept up with the model flying and building. The Wot 4 is now almost ready for covering.
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I attended with my Dad and Grandparents for Saturday and Sunday, with camping. It was probably the best show I have been to, the full size Pitts and Spitfire were excellent and the night show was incredible. Lots of traders and the swap meet was excellent, particularly on Saturday, and the model displays were very enjoyable, especially the funfighters!
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Very sad news. A tremendously talented aeromodeller and a great chap.
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Century Jet retracts from the states. Decent but no threadlock on any of the bolts so I will apply that myself.
Dry assembly of the real retract mount:
And then I glued just the retract mount area to make sure it is right before the rest of the wing assembly is built.
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Unfortunately the Wot 4 Pro has been crashed due to an elevator connector failure- subsequently ordered lots of connector locks. The wing is fine so I might build another fuselage for it at some point.
This one is looking decent though, needless to say this one would have survived the crash considerably better than the super light ARTF one
Seagull Boomerang or Arising Star - any difference at all?
in Trainer kits
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I believe the wing section is a Clark Y on the Arising star, whereas like you have mentioned it is semi symmetrical on the Boomerang
