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Mike Hardy

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Posts posted by Mike Hardy

  1. Hi Martin, got round the problem by doing the edges first leaving a 10mm return, then cutting the 'blank' slightly smaller. I usually use thinned PVA but had 500ml of PolyC in stock. The trick is to insure tissue to be stuck down is not coated with PolyC by accident. The result seems quite good, but have noticed it takes a long time to dry certainly not the 20mins quoted.

    I use dope after the tissue is bonded. I could never get on with bonding down wet tissue with dope. Have noticed the scalpel blades loose their edge quickly cutting tissue!!

    Mike.

  2. Hi all,

    Help with PolyC and tissue application I am covering the Tucano airframe with tissue and PolyC. No problems with application to flat surfaces but to get a bond around the edges is proving difficult. What I am finding is once the tissue is coated at the edges and dried it does not like to bond around the edge. I have to apply around the edge first with a strip then apply tissue onto the flat as a second operation. Hope this makes sense!!

    Any way around this problem?

    Mike.

  3. The airframe has received 1 coat of 50/50 sanding sealer and 1 coat of 50/50 dope, before moving on to the next stage I will conduct a pull test using Solarfilm silver on a sample treated as above and a further sample on bare wood. Martin what are your concerns? I am a little concerned to apply a water based adhesive (PVA 50/50) directly on to large area of untreated balsa given the distortion risk. I use 50/50 PVA (brush through) to bond tissue then several coats of thinned dope before the final acrylic finish.

    Nose wheel, I see that this has a smaller diameter?

    Mike.

    Edited By Mike Hardy on 19/09/2014 13:02:39

  4. An interesting thought Martin, never thought of a composite solution - silver solarfilm on the flat panels and tissue on the complex shapes. one worry though with solarfilm the surface has to be 'prefect'. do you guys use an iron or hot ait gun to apply the film or both?

    I am Appling a sealing coat over the air frame comprising 50/50 sanding sealer rub down then a 50/50 coat of none shrink dope and final rub down, this provides a sealed surface to apply tissue using 50/50 PVA and water or silver solarfilm. Colin, I have had my fair share if warping on this particular project especially with the wing panels and that is just being left in the open for a couple of weeks!!

    Mike.

  5. tucano complete - not covered (2).jpgtucano complete rear view - not covered.jpgHi all,

    I am now in a position to cover the airframe (better late than never!!). I plan to use the Battle of Britain memorial flight colour scheme which means a paint job. As I see it (you master builders may differ) I have two routes - tissue and dope or fibre glass and PolyC. My preference is the tissue route because I have used this method many times. Some master builders on here have used the PolyC - I have the stuff but need to be convinced it is the better method. Your comments please.

    I am not a master builder so please be kind on the photo comments!!!

    Mike.

    tucano with cockpit detail - not covered..jpg

  6. Thanks Phil (congrats on your 'A' and Martin, do these stubs need to be hollow to aid cooling of the motor? Will post some pics prior to covering.

    Can I ask all you Tucano master builders to keep on eye on this thread as the next operation will be to cover and no doubt will be asking some questions as to which technique to use.

    Regards,

    Mike.

  7. Thanks Guys, firstly there are some great junior 60's shown in this thread, I am truly humbled by all you master builders who have commented.

    What concerns me is the possibility of adding 1.5 Lbs. of ballast up front to achieve a balance about the wing spar. the additional nose length should reduce this ballast especially if the li-po can be positioned right up front. I can do a moment calc. to give me some idea knowing the weight of the electric drive components. Another worry is for the apparent tendency (comments on here) for the wing half's tips to meet in mid air!! Now my wing is already built to the Ben Buckle plan so just how do I extend the dihedral brace into a further wing bay? without drastic surgery.

    Mike.

  8. junior 60 electric wing and fuselage.jpgHi, Started this kit a couple of years ago and so far completed the wing and most of the fuselage.

    I have read of late on here that the rudder and elevator area needs to increase slightly to improve handling, does anybody have details of this mod.

    I understand the fuselage nose length needs to be increased by 20mm to help with the C and G when using modern (lighter) induction motors.

    Mike

  9. Hi I have used the 4 magnet approach hatch fits nicely and is firm (too firm!!) and does not move about. It is difficult to open any ideas? thought about letting in an M3 nut on the CL and using a screw as a grab. there is no dowel at the moment - do I need a locating dowel?

    Mike.

    tucano nose hatch in place.jpgtucano nose hatch open.jpg

  10. Hi, I am making a small hatch. In the fuselage body I have let in 4, 5mm magnets. In the hatch itself I can use two thin strips of metal or 4 countersunk head screws to engage the magnets, using screws (head flush with the balsa) is going to be easier to adopt but the metal strip will connect with both magnets on each side. Which is the better idea.?

    Mike.

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