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Mike Hardy

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Everything posted by Mike Hardy

  1. Mike Hardy
    Using IE10
  2. Mike Hardy
    Page 77 is playing up, this page is OK Weird!!
  3. Mike Hardy
    The forum is useless to me now - I will let you sort it out!! There no other issues on my PC. Mike.
  4. Mike Hardy
    Using IE using the compatibility button improves the text but cannot type in a return Mike
  5. Mike Hardy
    All threads: the word lookks too many k's in there. Noticed the change tonight. Mike.
  6. Mike Hardy
    1/3 All threads are now covered up by the advert pane on the right. Mike.
  7. Mike Hardy
    1/3 All threads are now covered up by the advert pane on the right. Mike.
  8. Mike Hardy
    What have they done to this forum!! I am now loosing text to the right hand side covered by ads, Not a good move Mike.
  9. Mike Hardy
    Thanks Guys, just ordered some 5mm dia X 3 mm thick off ebay. Storage - nowhere near metal objects? Mike.
  10. Mike Hardy
    Thanks guys, do you abrade the magnet surface to act as a key for the epoxy? Mike.
  11. Mike Hardy
    Thanks Phil, the contact area in the hatch - magnet or steel (screw etc) Mike.
  12. Mike Hardy
    Canopy Magnets: not used them so questions - What size? Round or square? Mating surface - another magnet or steel? Fixing - glue or countersink screw? Do they decay quickly? Thanks guys for your comments Mike.
  13. Mike Hardy
    Just been in touch with RC World who supplied the spinner and would-you-believe they have a lathe and are going to make some washers for me at a nominal cost!! And introduce a range of washers or inserts to convert their spinners to 6mm shaft as an option. Panic over. Mike.
  14. Mike Hardy
    Thanks BEB, The alum spinner I am using is made for a 1/4" motor shaft, my motor shaft is 5.9mm (6mm) dia. So I need a replacement for the small washer shown in the photo but with a 6mm hole for the motor shaft. If I use the existing washer then the spinner can run out of true and liable to vibrate at speed. Mike.
  15. Mike Hardy
    Good point Wolston, Just worried about the volt loss across the extra connectors especially when pulling 40A or more at take-off. Mike.
  16. Mike Hardy
    Hi Chaps, All very interesting but as you can see there is no room for any additional capacitors!! Nose hatch - fit or no fit - which have you guys chosen!! No hatch then the motor is burred for all time!! A hatch is needed to help target the screwdriver for removal of mounting screws. and disconnect the ESC from the motor, both parts can then be removed. Returning to my earlier post re aluminium washers for the spinner back plate - what I need is a washer - 0.370" o/d 0.236" i/d and 0.175" thick. I have no machining facilities so I need the services of a kind master builder who has a Myford or Boxford lathe to make a couple of these. Of course I will pay for time and materials. Any volunteers please. (mods - am I OK to ask on this forum) Mike. Edited By Mike Hardy on 11/07/2013 09:59:12
  17. Mike Hardy

    Mike Hardy posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  18. Mike Hardy

    Mike Hardy posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  19. Mike Hardy

    Mike Hardy posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  20. Mike Hardy
    Thanks Chris, I have another question: My motor is SK3 3542 1185kV The prop adaptor shaft dia is 0.236" (5.9mm) my alum spinner back plate hole dia 1/4 unf, I take it hole dia 0.250" (6.3mm) giving 0.4mm slack which can be enough to 'throw out' the spinner on the prop adaptor shaft. Can I add tape to the shaft to make up the difference. Or is there an adaptor washer available? Mike.
  21. Mike Hardy
    Hi all, I want to lengthen my ESC main battery wires by about 50mm is this acceptable? Using a 3S 3600 pack with XT60 connectors puts the connector pair right up against the fuselage inside wall making it difficult to part the connector. The extra 50mm would make it much easier to handle and part. It is not possible to move the ESC in order to gain extra pack lead length' Mike.
  22. Mike Hardy
    Thanks Guys, I hope I am still posting in the right place! The questions are linked to my Tucano, I am getting ready to run up my motor so I can check direction of rotation then I can fit the motor and fit the top deck Once charged how long can i leave the packs in this state? If I am not using them for say a week is that OK or do I have to discharge to the storage voltage? Another Question: To run up the motor can I just plug the ESC Rx lead into my servo tester and adjust the speed with the pot. Or do I have to connect to the Rx and run up via the Tx (pain) I have an Aurora 9 which I have yet to commission. These questions may be basic to you guys, but they are not to me and maybe others on this forum so please bear with me. Mike.
  23. Mike Hardy
    Thanks BEB. Should I put the pack back on charge so the 'balancing' process can finish?. I terminated the charge after about 1 hour with nothing much happening - the charge current was hunting from zero to 0.1A and the pack voltage was 'up and down' by a few mV but never looked like achieving 12.6V. It was the pack's first charge. C rating was 3.6A, I was charging at about 1/3C. Mike.
  24. Mike Hardy
    Thanks Wolston, I have just finished charging two packs, the charger terminated the process when the pack voltage reached 12.6V. The second pack never quite reached this voltage (12.49V) so I terminated the charge when the charge current was almost at zero. Is this explained by the end charge pack voltage tolerance between packs or should I have left the charge to run? The charger I am using is an Accucell-6. I note there is an input for a 'temperature sensor' does anybody know what this is for? Mike.
  25. Mike Hardy
    Hi guys, Li-PO question. I have just charged 3s 3000 and 3s 3600 for the 1st time and I notice that the batteries arrive with about 2/3 charge so they only take 1/3 charge before full. Is that normal? I have 4 lipo's and I have just changed the connectors to XT60 - no probs but I note a large variation in o/d of the wires yet they are all 10AWG? Normal? Mike.
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