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Jack Banner

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Posts posted by Jack Banner

  1. Hi,

    my brother has this kit (see pics below) but there are no instructions or details at all with it, it is just in plastic bags. He likes the look of it and would like to get it built. It appears to be designed for a brushed can motor and has a glass fuse with foam core wings.

    20160402_192807.jpg

    20160402_192833.jpg

    20160402_192853.jpg

    Does anyone recognize it? We are ideally hoping for a manual but would settle for a name and CofG details!

    Many thanks for looking

  2. I have had one fail. It was on a throttle on my first I.C trainer, and locked the throttle fully open. No damage as I just flew round pylon style until it dead sticked. I still use them but always with threadlock and only on the throttle.

    Banning them seems a bit much but will have saved planes.

  3. I use spektrum exclusively now. DX8 with DSMX DSM2 receivers. I also used a futaba FASST system for a while but didn't like the programming. I have never had a signal failure or plane lost to radio problems. I do use orange and lemon rx's but have binned the odd one when it failed its initial range check.

    How many other people also range check with the electric motor going full chat?

    I use various sizes of Nimh, but size them to the number of servos. A 4.8v pack is fine for a plane using 3/4 micro or mini servos but I would always use 6v from there up. I also check receiver pack voltage before every flight.

    I might just have been lucky but I do think a lot of failures are due to incorrect specification and poor installation.
  4. Yeah, my last one had the issue with the mounting bolts fouling the Aileron servo. This is part of the reason I am going with servo's in the wings.

    I will watch the weight of the tail certainly. I should have some latitude though as I am using a fairly heavy engine (SC 46) and will have an alloy spinner on the front most likely. I can alter the size of the flight pack to assist if I need to as well.

    I put together some servo boxes last night but might re-do them. I had planned on having the ply servo mounting plate flush with the wing veneer by sitting it on the rim of the servo box, which would be sunk below the level of the wing veneer. However, it occurred to me over breakfast that it makes more sense to have the balsa servo box top level with the wing veneer (and sanded flush) and the servo mounting plate sunk inside the servo box, screwed to hard wood posts. This will ensure a tidy fit right up to the veneer, with no foam showing, even when the mounting plate is removed.

    I will have a play tonight anyway and decide.

  5. Thanks for the suggestions guys. I have gone with the HS85MG option. I have used these before for wing servos' and have confidence in them. They are also only require small holes in the wing They should arrive today so I hope to start on installation tonight.

    I have the fuse in my SLEC building jig now with f2 and f3 fitted plus the tail clamped together. I hoped to have the firewall in also but discovered I have no m4 t-nuts, so am awaiting some more. They wont get here until Thursday most likely so I hope to have most of the wing done by then. yeah right....

    Oh and I have all but given up on the steerable nose wheel idea. The firewall and tank bay seem to tight on this model for all the required hardware and pushrods. Has anyone managed to do this and care to share?

  6. That looks great Martyn.

    Can I ask what you cover your stored models with? Is that bubble wrap or some other soft plastic that is draped over the two fuselages in your first pick? I have recently come to the conclusion that I need to cover my stored models to stop them getting covered in balsa dust etc. as my work space is also my storage space. I got a plane down from the roof yesterday and it had far too much sawdust etc on it.

  7. Thanks for the encouragement Richard!

    I hear you on the HS81's. I was hoping that they would be OK but suspected it was a bit risky. Of course they have the advantage that I already have them (poached from another project) but I will probably play it safe and order some with metal gears.

  8. Hey Willyuk,

    I am intending on using an SC 46 that has been run in but seen very little use. I had an iIvine .39 in my last one and whilst it was fine a little more power wont hurt.

    The main changes I intend on making are:

    Hitec HS-81 in each wing for the Ailerons

    Steerable nose wheel

    Cross grain inner and outer tip sections for the elevators and rudder

    Thin ply facings for the elevator and rudder where the horns are fitted

    I am also considering glassing the fuselage and, possibly, the wings. Partly as I haven't done it before and partly for a neat, hardy finish. I am a little wary of making it too heavy though so will decide when I have to and can check the weight without covering. If it isn't glassed then I will use Oracover and am currently leaning toward black and gold or black and red.

    All subject to change of course!

  9. Not so much a build blog - more a statement of intent! After crashing my beloved bullet at the tail end of last year I have finally got around to starting to build a new one. I am using the PB Models kit, sourced from Cloud models. Wood is pretty good and the fittings are also pretty good. I won't post each and every step here as this has been done for this model by far better builders than me. I will however detail any changes I make that I think may be of interest.
  10. Had my first fly for nearly a month on Saturday. Pretty good on the whole but bitterly cold! The windsock was horizontal for most of the day and the wind was swinging around in the afternoon. Enjoyed flying my little hobbyking fun fighter for a bit, it's heavy and fast enough (on 4s) to cope with the wind pretty well. Also flew my 450 heli but after a few flights it was too windy to be really enjoyable. Unfortunately our strip is still too boggy for any ROG flights and anything hand launched gets covered in mud on landing as well.

    Roll on the summer.

  11. Nice update Tim. With you on the laser 4 strokes, great engines and much more enjoyable than any electric ticker. I have a complaint though, where are the pictures!?

    I need to start a kit soon but am building a new bench at the moment. Hope to finish that this week and then decide what to build.
  12. Hmm, interesting. I have a throttle cut setup on my TX for my I.C models but it drops the throttle servo to -130% rather than just disabling it. I might look to setup a throttle hold, on that same switch, for my electric models. Cant hurt. I use XT60 and much prefer them to other connectors.

  13. I am glad to see some people agree with my concerns around safety being adhered to in these "infomercial" videos.

    Interesting to hear that you run a safety switch Geoff, is this on your TX or a physical switch on the model?

    I don't run any safety switch on my electric planes (although I do use throttle hold on my Heli's) just being very careful to treat them like I would a running I.C plane, once the battery is connected. I haven't had an 'incident' for a while but have previously caught the throttle, as was done in the video. I think the small size and (possibly) lower cost of these foam planes does lead to complacency, in me as well as others.

    I think I am banging on about it as I am concerned to see that the public perceive our hobby as safety conscious, especially as it is being thrust into the spotlight with the increased press coverage of drones etc.

  14. I've never talked to a man with three hands before, that's a first. I am pretty sure you caught the throttle by accident in the video and you picked the plane up with your wrist in the throttle arc. Of course I have done all those things too, from time to time but not recommended practise and not safe enough for me or, in my opinion, for a promotional video.

    Edited By Jack Banner on 03/02/2016 09:21:44

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