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Paul Turner 2

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Posts posted by Paul Turner 2

    Should I scratchbuild a plane modelled from a picture I found online?

    in All Things Model Flying

    Posted

    Thanks for replying :)

    Nope I have no formula. At the moment I have a rough plan (the diagram I downloaded) but that's all. I can model to that but as I said, I don't know how accurate it is.

    I Don't have much experience with aerodynamics and what things really matter when considering a project like this. But I'm guessing that just guessing on stuff probably wouldn't work out for the best. Just thought it'd be wise to ask the questions before putting the hours in only to find it flies like a brick :)

    Should I scratchbuild a plane modelled from a picture I found online?

    in All Things Model Flying

    Posted · Edited by Paul Turner 2

    Hi all,

     

    I've modeled an EDF jet in Fusion360 from a top and side view that I found online, similar to how the guy has done it in THIS video (but it's a different model). I have been unable to find a front view. I don't know how accurate the reference pictures are in comparison to the actual model.

     

    On the side view, it gives rough lines of the airfoils but there is no supporting detail about what airfoil should be used, and I can't find any info on other things such as angle of incidence, amount of dihedral etc.

     

    Is it a bad idea to undertake a scratch build project without having this kind of detail?

     

    Also I've tried to model it as accurately as possible to the diagrams and in conjunction with real pictures but It's never going to be 100% faithful. In this case could these small details be the make or break on if it'll fly well?

     

    My plan is to use CAD because I want to be able to split the fuselage into 50mm sections (to get the profiles and cutouts etc) so I can then cut the sections out of XPS foam with a hotwire.

     

    Your thoughts would be appreciated!

    • Like 1

    2-8S capable charger for multiple lipo charging

    in All Things Model Flying

    Posted

    3 hours ago, Ron Gray said:

    I use an ISDT P30 with 2 balance boards and charge 8 5s or 6s at the same time. I don’t have 8s.

     

    I have heard of the ISDT brand because I have one of their cell voltage / balancing devices.

     

    Whats your thoughts on the P30 you own, are you happy with it? I see it is capable of 1-8S and has 1000W per single channel or 1500W total.

     

    I've been looking at this guide. My biggest 8S batteries are 4400mah so I have calculated that  W = A x V  so  W = 4.4 x 33.6 = 147.84 W per 8S battery.

    The bit I'm not sure about is when parallel charging,  is it 4 x 147.8W = 591.2W total or does the wattage change (increase?) when charging in parallel?

     

    Also I'd be interested to know which balance boards you use with it.

     

    Thanks a lot!

    Paul

     

     

    2-8S capable charger for multiple lipo charging

    in All Things Model Flying

    Posted

    Hi Everyone,

     

    I have various Lipo batteries from 2-8s. I haven't yet used the 8S batteries as I don't currently have a need for them but I will in the near future.

     

    I currently charge my 2-6S Lipo's using 3 separate old IMAX B6 chargers to charge one battery at a time on each which gets the job done but I'm considering an upgrade to a single charger that I can charge multiple batteries on.

     

    I know some chargers have 4 separate charging channels but I haven't been able to find anything that does up to 4x 8S batteries. I believe some people use parallel charging boards off of a single charger.

     

    Do you have any recommendations on what may be a good bet at a sensible price?

    Would I need an external power supply?

    When charging multiple batteries, do they all have to be the same cell count and capacity? either on a 4channel charger or with a parallel charging board?

     

    Thank you!

    Paul

     

     

     

    Converting WOT4 MK2 (IC version) to electric power

    in General Electric Flight Chat

    Posted

    3 hours ago, Andy48 said:

    flown a tad more gently will fly for over 20 minutes  at a time. I do have to take the wing off to change the battery.

     

    I guess it's not so bad having to remove the wing if you're getting 20 min each go!

     

    3 hours ago, Bruce Collinson said:

    U/c mounting plates tend to be a weakness and the metal u/cs are a bit bouncy.   I have added some glass to the plate.

     

    I was considering strengthening the undercarriage fixing on the fuse, but hadn't considered how yet - any pics you can provide on what you guys have done would be helpful ?

     

    3 hours ago, Bruce Collinson said:

    A c/f tube instead of the huge dowel as elevator pushrod is thinner and lighter too and plenty stiff enough.   The rudder servo might benefit from being raised a little to keep the pushrod and the pull-pull rudder cables well away from each other.

     

    Cool - Will keep these mods in mind, is there any other weaknesses or beneficial mods you recommend?

     

    1 hour ago, Andy48 said:

    Better still to have an arming plug.

     

    Being honest, don't know what this is - will look up

     

    Cheers all,

     

    Paul

    Converting WOT4 MK2 (IC version) to electric power

    in General Electric Flight Chat

    Posted · Edited by Paul Turner 2

    Thanks for your replies guys, If I can get the battery to fit in from the top without having to take the wing off then that would be great, I'm not sure what the differences are between the WOT4 MK2 and the WOT4 Pro, is the size the same ? John did the standard elec kit all fit in with no other mods required ? It looks like the instructions were saying about a protruding tab that is suppose to interlock into the battery tray to hold it in position which I don't appear to have.

    Converting WOT4 MK2 (IC version) to electric power

    in General Electric Flight Chat

    Posted

    Hi All,

     

    I have a WOT4 MK2 (A-CF002/LEO) ARTF that has been in a box in the loft for years and I want to convert it to electric power.

     

    From what I gather, it looks like there were different versions of the the MK2, I think the later one could be either IC or EP but I assume the version I have is the earlier iteration and is for IC only. The IC/EP manual (a-cf002-a) shows that the cap at the front cockpit area is removable and has a spring-loaded lever, but mine doesn't have this. The Foam-e version (a-cf003a) shows a hatch on the underside in front of the UC, I also found another conversion document (Wot4-Elec-Conv - not sure if this is intended for the ARTF) which shows a hatch being cut on the underside behind the UC.

     

    I plan to use 3S 5A  or 4S 3.3A Lipo's. Any recommendations or words of advice on how best to approach this before I embark ?

     

    Thank You,

     

    Paul

     

     

    a-cf002-a.pdf a-cf003a.pdf Wot4-Elec-Conv.pdf

    Seb-Art Angel 30e - mods ?

    in Sport, Aerobatic and 3D kits

    Posted

    Thanks for the replies. Colin, what do you mean by the lift generator tabs ? Do you mean the tabs that you screw into to secure the wings in place ?

    It great to hear that every one rates my purchase decision. I have just recently ordered the bits for my power system, which I decided on by playing with the propcalc website. Gone for a 4s 3300 (over the recommended 3S 2500), Turnigy SK3 4240-620Kv, 45A YEP ESC, 13 x 8 prop. This gives a thrust to weight ratio of about 1.25 : 1 and a flight time of around about 7-8 minutes. Hopefully this will be suitable. What setups are you guys running in your 30's and what sort of flight times are you getting?

    @Jon, do you find that by using nylon bolts for the undercarriage sees them breaking off regularly? I had this problem with my Acrowot, but then again it's probably 3 times the weight of what the Angel will be!

    Cheers all

    P

    Seb-Art Angel 30e - mods ?

    in Sport, Aerobatic and 3D kits

    Posted

    Hi all

    I've just started the assembly of my Seb-Art Angel 30. I thought I'd ask to see if anybody has any direct experience with this model and if there are any known weak points that might need reinforcing, or any mods that I could / should consider during assembly ?

    Many Thanks

    Paul

    Edited By Paul Turner 2 on 15/03/2017 23:59:06

    F3A / 3D cross from reliable manufacturer ?

    in General Electric Flight Chat

    Posted

    Thanks for your input guys, Peter thanks for your info about trimming, it's not something that I have done before (well not properly anyway) but I have a document that I downloaded a while back by Peter Goldsmith on trimming. I will use your info along with his to try and get it set up as good as possible, and if I'm not sure there are plenty of experienced pilots at the local club that might be able to advise.

    Regarding batteries, motor & prop selection, as previously mentioned I have

    2x 4S 2200 35-70C,

    2x 4S 2650 25-50C,

    2x 4S 3300 25-50C

    Any suggestions as which would be best and what motor and prop size combination is recommended ?

    Many thanks

    Paul

    F3A / 3D cross from reliable manufacturer ?

    in General Electric Flight Chat

    Posted

    Thanks guys, they all look like good options. I have also been looking into biplanes. If I could find a model that ticked all 3 boxes - F3A, 3D and biplane then that would be great. Question is if a F3A biplane is too much to handle for an intermediate flyer?

    I'm looking for a plane that will enable me to become more confident and progress my skill level. (less money in the air usually makes me more confident ! )

    What would quality be like for £350 ? can I get good quality for less ?

    One other question, does a larger model mean more stability? Is a larger model easier to fly ?

    Edited By Paul Turner 2 on 05/11/2016 12:02:57

    Edited By Paul Turner 2 on 05/11/2016 12:07:17

    F3A / 3D cross from reliable manufacturer ?

    in General Electric Flight Chat

    Posted

    Hi all

    I am an intermediate skill level pilot with experience with acrowot, and stinger edf. Looking to purchase next model that is suited to F3A style but capable of 3D manoeuvres. Want something that really grooves, for example when flying inverted doesn't require any (or very little) up stick to maintain the same altitude, and has lots of control authority (especially rudder), as my acrowot has neither of these attributes. Also lots of vertical power. My budget is £350 max for ARTF airframe. I already own 3S, 4S and 8S lipos so something using these would be best. Looking for something fairly large, maybe span of 1500mm or thereabouts. Any recommendations that fit the bill from good quality reliable manufacturer ? Seen a few models such as Fliton Inspire that look like the right sort of pattern.

    Many thanks

    Paul

    Aerodynamics guru's! what to do with thrust reverser slots ?

    in All Things Model Flying

    Posted

    Hi everyone

    I have a EDF unit with thrust tube that when installed in my model Saab Viggen, is thinner than the main duct which creates a void around the outside of the thrust tube.

    It can be seen in this photo.

    This void continues towards the exhaust area where the void is blocked off by a ring that is made of foam that has been glued in to support the end of the thrust tube as shown here (thrust tube not installed) :

     

    The model has 3 thrust reverser slots (either side and underneath) as shown here:

    At the moment, air is going to go in through these slots and cannot get out of the back because of the support ring, and is going to circulate around the whole void - drag city.

    My initial thoughts were to create some holes in the supporting ring, or to replace it with something that still supports the thrust tube but lets as much air as possible out the back, but the issue is that the size of the slots are always going to let more air in than will be able to get out and therefore create drag.

    So...block them off!? I didn't want to really do this as it's a prominent feature of the scale plane that I wanted to keep.

    Any thoughts / advice ?

    Thanks

    Paul

    Edited By Paul Turner 2 on 28/04/2015 18:48:01

    Edited By Paul Turner 2 on 28/04/2015 18:48:22

    Aluminium paint finish products

    in All Things Model Flying

    Posted

    I think I'm going to go for the Alclad 2 paints now that you have allayed my fears about the quantity needed - I thought I might need loads of bottles!

    Allan, do you know when and if a clear coat should be applied? Is it purely to fuel proof or does this also provide a tough 'skin' to protect the paint from chips / dents etc ?

    Thanks all for your input wink

    P

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