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Sam Wragg

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Posts posted by Sam Wragg

  1. In todays society you work hard save hard for a happy reiterment then you fall ill because of this ethos then the government takes all your savings and your house off you all in the name to pay for your care. While some malingerer who's done nothing all their life apart from collecting their social cheque gets everything.

    spend it, enjoy it, you work hard for it, you can't take it with you when you curl your toes up and go to meet your maker

    Edited By Sam Wragg on 30/04/2015 15:34:21

    **edited for language**

     

    Edited By David Ashby - RCME on 30/04/2015 17:35:53

  2. Principally once a club accepts money off a person then the said person is deemed a member of the club, then the club is binding into a contract with the said person and all the legal implications that transpire from entering into such contract.

    Generally most committes are run by people who feel strong enough care for the club and act accordingly and do so with the best intentions, generally giving up their free time to conduct club matters for the benefit of the members.

    But on the other hand some committee members let the power vested upon them go to their heads and become little Hitlers and strut around as though it's 'Their Club' and become obnoxious in their attitude towards other members.

    It is these small few who spoil it for the many but fortunately this person is very rare, but they're still in existence.

    Sam

    Edited By Sam Wragg on 30/04/2015 14:44:02

  3. Please don't have a go at the instructors because most likely they give up their precious little spare / flying time for free and are graciously helping others to learn.

    The problem lies with the club for accepting your fee's without fully explaining the situation regarding waiting times concerning new pilots.

    What the club should have done is put you on a waiting list to join instead of taking your fee's and leaving you to sit on sidelines waiting your turn.

    1 Flight per session is laughable and is a waist of time. In my opinion you should have at least 3 per session in doing this the club should have a greater turnaround of learner pilots instead of disgruntled pilots stood kicking grass

    Sam

  4. Yes I would say one flight line to avoid distractions and I think most clubs would only permit one line.

    I'll volunteer my services to be caller / helper / advisor if it helps

    I would think on average a schedule would only take around 5 mins, so shouldn't take too long.

    Sam

  5. Yes I would say one flight line to avoid distractions and I think most clubs would only permit one line.

    I'll volunteer my services to be caller / helper / advisor if it helps

    I would think on average a schedule would only take around 5 mins, so shouldn't take too long.

    Sam

  6. Fully agree Steve.

    I think we fly at least one non competetative round with the pilot flying the schedule of their choice (no judges) after all we do it for fun and enjoyment and it puts no pressure on the pilot if they choose to elect to fly a schedule.

    Personally flying a set schedule of manoeuvres is better than flying around aimlessly and inproves your abilities

    I also think this format will give us credence when we fly at the Host club

    The floor is open to debate

    Sam

  7. Always willing to learn new techniques. I've also read about fastening latex sheet in a wooden frame coated with release agent then stretch the latex over one half of the component scrape any air bubbles / exess resin towards the edge and leave to cure.

    looking at Arrow this morning with fresh eyes she's not as bad as I first though. Because I spent time at the prep stage and used only a small amount of resin the actual finish is pretty good with no fish eyes. It looks rough because I've brush painted on the Etch primer. I rekon a couple of hours flattening and she'll be ready to paint

    Sam

  8. In reference to my previous post

    the timing mark on the cam should be at the bottom. I don't know where center line of tapped hole came from. (Probably work related)

    Apologies for confusion I was rushing to post

    Sam

  9. Posted by Peter Miller on 21/04/2015 08:44:44:
    Posted by Sam Wragg on 20/04/2015 21:32:42:

    When I run YS an old trick of mine was to rub the joint face of the rocker cover against a flat oil stone to ensure it was flat, as any leak around this area can upset the performance of the engine.

    Still can't remember what prop I used tho

    Sam

    Now why would any leak in the rocker cover have an effect on running or power? there is no connection between the rocker space and the fuel mixture passages or any other part of the engine that might affect the power.. Infact the only connection is through to the crankcase and that is open to atmosphere via the breather nipple

    Indeed we can see in this thread an engine being run with no rocker cover.Cars have a great big oil filler in their rocker covers...I could go on

    Pete

    Because in the YS system the Rocker cover holds in the pressure from the super charger system prior to being injected to the cylinder through the inlet valve. Any leak in this area upsets the performance of the engine Any excess flows back down the valve guides through a hole in the Crank back into the super charger

    Although the OS doesn't employ a super charger system the Rocker Cover still holds the fuel air mixture and speaking from experience any leak in this area does affect the engines performance.

    The crankcase nipple is so that the engine can breath as the piston goes up and down during its cycle as the bottom end is sealed

    I Agree with Jon about the Timing marks

    (From Memory)

    The timing mark on the Crank should align with the mark on the crankcase

    The timing mark on the cam should align with the center of the lower tapped hole of the camshaft cover.

    Sam

  10. Elbow grease required sad

    This is where the hard work begins...... RUBBING DOWN !..... I dislike this part but this part dictates the final finish.

    I usually give the resin about a week or more to fully cure before the final preparation can begin. First of all I once again wipe the surface down with Acetone to remove any surface wax the resin leaves in the curing process.

    I then brush paint the surface with Etching Primer and leave to harden

    img_1130.jpg

    Over the years I've acquired many tools for the work shop and a Compressor and spray gun(s) is one piece of equipment I'm fortunate to own. This has its advantages as its more cost effective when buying paint.

    When the Etch Primer has dried, I then spray the surface with white primer/ filler.

    The two contrasting colours allow you see the low/high areas when rubbing down and also prevents you from going to far and sanding through the cloth.

    I initially start with 180 grit Wet n Dry (used wet with a dash or two of washing up liquid in the water). I then work my way up to 240 grit until I'm happy.

    So, basically when all the White primer has been flattened back to the etching primer/cloth the surface is or should be flat enough / defect free to start finally painting.

    Like I have previously stated this method works for me and I acknowledge that most of you will have developed your own ways of doing things

    Off to the workshop now to Start with tedious the task of Rubbing Down sad

    Sam

    Edited By Sam Wragg on 21/04/2015 09:34:23

  11. When I run YS an old trick of mine was to rub the joint face of the rocker cover against a flat oil stone to ensure it was flat, as any leak around this area can upset the performance of the engine.

    Still can't remember what prop I used tho

    Sam

  12. Martyn,

    Asuming your using OS Fs plug 10% nitro18% synthetic oil (minimum). I used to run 20% nitro ( Irvine 20% champion fuel) then check the above + any air leaks around the gaskets/ rubber seals.

    Can't remember what prop I used on my sons across wot but it was something like 13x10 apc but will get back to you on that. The performance was outstanding

    Sam

  13. Posted by Peter Android on 20/04/2015 08:57:18:

    Very Impressive British thumbs up Engineering Sam - Owdlad , and a lasting legacy ............

    Yes Pete that's what 'our lass' said blush

    I must admit it was a proud moment being re-aquianted with an 'old friend'.

    On a serious note I find it sad that I'm the last of a very few in the UK who has the experience & knowledge to be able to machine precision components of that magnitude .

    This is all down to the party that was in government in the 80s by scrapping the Aprenticship schemes that kept such imperical knowledge being handed down from generation to generation.

    Back on topic......

    When landing Magic bring her in with a nose up attitude and use the throttle to control the decent, doing this helps slow her down (slighty)

    Sam

  14. Eyup Pete.

    Dint make that (wunt mind tho) but; I was tasked to make a pair of replica Canons for the ME110 at Cosford museum as an apprentice.

    Last week on my jollies we called in to have a a look at my handywork.

    img_0567.jpg

    RE Falkirk Wheel.... I machined the central shaft & bearing housings the whole structure rotates on.

    Sam

  15. Pleased the maiden went well, told you she's fast (including landings).

    After flying Curare and messing with snap flaps / crow breaking, I'm beginning to wish I'd built them into Magic as they certainly work as designed and slow Curare up on landings, so maybe they have the same effect on Magic? But in saying that I've got Magic #2 to play with so when I get round to flying her I can play with different flight modes.

    Sam

  16. Posted by Sam Wragg on 17/04/2015 13:04:21:

    Stick to 35 meg it's far superior to 2.4 especially now the majority has gone over to the dark side

    Sam

    Suprised no one has picked up on this statement.

    In terms of signal reliability 35mhz is far superior to 2.4.

    Which is the best transmitter? The ones with the best engineered gimbals. All today's sets the sticks are weak and plastic apart from Jeti Which are wondrously engineered and what I've seen and heard the jeti duplex system are without doubt the best sets you can today in terms of quality & signal reliability.

    That said I'm sticking with my Graupner MC24 ( the best Tx ever made)

    Sam

  17. Martyn,

    The Spray mount is repositional.

    I only thin the sealing coat as the acetone allows the resin to be drawn into the balsa before evaporating. I wouldn't advise thinning the resin for subsequent coats as the resin can dry rubbery but by all means use micro balloons as this helps fill the weave. for the final / finishing coat use pure resin

    Sam

  18. I was intending to continue with the thread yesterday but felt it was inappropriate after Martyn posted the demise of Concept

    Right; back to the glassing of Arrow. Once the coat of resin has cured the fuselage is wiped with a cloth soaked in acetone to remove any waxes the resin leaves in its curing and is then given a light sanding to flatten with 220 grade wet & dry (wet) with a finish sanding using a sanding pad (wet) to smooth the curved areas that may have been missed

    img_1123.jpgArrows Fuselage waiting for glass cloth applying

    I opted to use 24g glass cloth for Arrow, what I did was to make a paper template of the outline of the fuzz allowing for an overlap of the cloth.

    When the cloth is cut to shape I give the area where the cloth is to be applied a light dusting of Spray Mount

    img_1124.jpg

    Using spray mount helps keep the cloth in position before applying the resin and prevents it from floating on the surface

    img_1125.jpg

    Cloth applied and formed around the curved area waiting for the resin to be applied

    img_1126.jpg

    A mixture of 10ml resin + 1 teaspoon of micro balloons applied.

    When the resin is 'Green' (semi hard) trim all the excess cloth away, when the resin is cured give the overlap a light sanding then do the same for the other half of the Fuse

    img_1127.jpg

    Completed Fuse awaiting a wash over with Acetone and light sanding. Note removing any surface wax the epoxy resin leaves behind prevents 'Fish Eyes on the surface of the finish'

    img_1128.jpg

    Close up of Arrow after its light sanding.

    10ml of resin is then mixed and applied to one side of Arrows fuse and when cured the fuse can be completed

    img_1129.jpg

    Completed Fuselage ready for flatting with a weight gain of 1-1/4oz. Again wiping over the surface with a cloth soaked in acetone prior to sanding

    Sam

    Edited By Sam Wragg on 16/04/2015 13:52:05

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