Tony Harrison 2
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Posts posted by Tony Harrison 2
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19 hours ago, kc said:
...the small high wing trainer was probably too small (likely high wing loading and fast )..
..a landing crash might happen but usually they are repairable - it's part of the hobby!..
Loss of concentration after a while is the major cause of training crashes....
Thanks kc. Comments:
My small trainer was built from a US kit, lovely little thing, gentle flyer and not fast. Then I tried solo, crashed it within seconds, destroyed the front end, the pretty plastic cowl, had to rebuild front end laboriously. It still flies but isn't so pretty.
My very few attempts at solo flight were all very brief, never got as far as landing. No loss of concentration, just doing the wrong things.
Latest plane was designed to make flying more stable, positive, controllable, less jittery than these lightweight foamy jobs (had a couple, destroyed one, sold the other) and my little trainer. It's a 5' span high-wing job, tricycle undercarriage, ailerons, got it s/h fitted with a seized i/c engine, I modified the front end for electric power, quite hefty when loaded with two 4S batteries. It flew very nicely under buddy lead supervision, feels solid and reassuring. But that was some months ago. When there's a decent flying day (hah!) I really don't want to try it solo: all very well saying crashes are normal, but I hate the destruction of all that careful work, especially if it means total destruction. Expensive, too. Which is why I'm considering paid tuition before I return to France in spring.
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5 hours ago, Don Fry said:
Tony, you say you migrate between France and the UK. UK in the winter. Now even in Devon, the UK is a cold, dreary, dark and windy place in winter.
Hard work to learn there as I assume you are no longer a stripling. Summer is easier....Don, I agree entirely. My French club owns a super large field, great landing strip, flat ground amid vineyards, and they're v friendly & sociable. The weather is not just better, it's more reliable, predictable. The best tuition I've had has been there, with one of two Brit members, a personal friend - but he's moving away. I shouldn't be discouraged by this, I know: the chairman is very welcoming, as are other members I've met. We'll see what 2023 brings.
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2 hours ago, Cuban8 said:
I myself as a young teenager half a century ago came unstuck when I joined my first club in East London - (still going, so shall remain nameless although I'm sure they are excellent now) expecting to be welcomed and helped but found them to be quite useless and unfriendly but super quick at taking my subs money.....
One club I visited, S.Devon, was far too regimented for my liking - and I overheard one instructor member talking unkindly and disparagingly about a new member he'd been teaching. I didn't go back. Another in the same area gave me the distinct impression that they weren't keen on new members requiring instruction - tried to put me off by exaggerating the huge sums of money it would allegedly cost to get into the hobby.
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3 hours ago, Frank Skilbeck said:
Is Swindon too far to travel http://www.paulhecklesrc.co.uk/en/top/home/
BTW I do quite a bit of instructing and have never found anybody asking for instruction intrusive.
Thanks Frank - I've contacted Heckles, will see what happens.
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5 hours ago, David Davis 2 said:
Where do you stay in France Tony? I live in the extreme north of La Creuse, (23.) If I go to the nearest supermarket I'm in the Indre (36.) I am an instructor at my club, Berry Marche Modelisme (B2M) which has a good reputation for training beginners. We have members who drive over 30 miles to our club even though there are other clubs closer to their homes. Club website here: http://berrymarchemodelisme.free.fr/. We also have a Facebook page.
If you're anywhere nearby, why not send me a pm and we'll go flying. I'm going flying this afternoon! 😊
Thanks David, very kind. We're a long way apart: our 2nd home (from roughly late spring to mid-autumn) is in Dep't 30, Le Gard, on the edge of the Cévennes. We drive south on the A71 to the east of you, via Clermont Ferrand, on our way there. My club is the AMCC, Aeromodel Club Cevenol: great bunch, lovely flying field which they own, but my French isn't quite good enough to take instruction in that language.
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13 hours ago, Andy Gates said:
I personally don't think that if you belong to a club that you should be paying for tuition....
Thanks Andy but my circumstances (see my replies here to others) have been somewhat complicated - I don't blame others for this.
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16 hours ago, Chris Walby said:
If you are learning from new you will need quite a few hours instruction + hours practice,,,,
This is why cub atmospheres are so much better as you get a chance to ask other modelling questions and have a rest between flights. If your normal instructor is not available then another might be and sometimes a change is good as a rest!..
Thanks Chris. I do not dispute the advantages of club (the right one, and I belong to two) over trying to teach oneself. In several years so far I haven't had a "normal instructor": at one club, my experienced instructor gave me two lessons then moved to another county without telling anyone; at another, a similarly very experienced instructor gave me one lesson then died, very sadly; at yet another, my best instructor to date (a personal friend) is moving far away...
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1 hour ago, kc said:
Whilst you might find a paid instructor, I wonder whether you should consider first if you have been using a suitable plane? What have you been flying?
Building something like a Super 60 or a large vintage model might produce a model that flys slowly and can also be seen easily.
Maybe having the right plane with reliable i.c engine or electric plus a good supply of Lipos so that you can get 4 or 5 flights in a day ( at least) would help progress.
Thanks kc. I've tried foamies, I've built two traditional kits (elec glider, elec small high-wing trainer) which flew very well in others' hands, crashed when I tried them solo. Latest is a fairly big high-wing job with ailerons, tricycle wheeled, i/c engined bought s/h, electrified it myself and it flies very micely under buddy-lead supervision, stable & solid. I daren't try it solo, dread destroying it. Would love to have 4-5 flights in a day, supervised & instructed - it's what I'm willing to pay for.
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2 hours ago, Cuban8 said:
Can't suggest any paid for instruction in your area - I think that type of service has declined recently although there's bound to be a few around somewhere. Just curious, but there are a number of clubs in your neck of the woods - any reason why they might not be able to help you?
Ah, clubs. A real curate's egg. I belong to two clubs, England and France, each excellent in different ways. (Had tried a couple of others, and dropped them.) Lack of continuity from shutting between different countries has handicapped me, plus other factors; and I'm reluctant to cut into friends' own flying time by asking them for buddy-lead assistance. In England, autumn to spring, the atrocious and erratic weather means flying opportunities are rare anyway, aggravated by rain-sodden fields making vehicle access impossible. I've been thinking about abandoning the hobby and concentrating on fishing... But thanks for your interest.
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Anyone suggest a good trainer whom I'd pay to get me flying properly? I'm based in S.Devon, prepared to drive a moderate distance. Thanks
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4 hours ago, kc said:
The dowel holes are shown with different distances to the edge - it's normal to have them exactly the same. Difference is slight but I can see it on the screen! Symmetrical they could be put in either way - 'handed' means F3 and wing brace need to go in same way around. As you have not yet drilled F3 it will work out OK. There could be a reason for the odd spacing, but I cannot see why.
The reason for the notches I mentioned yesterday could be to take the 3/16 parts shown on the fuselage side view supporting the windscreen glazing. Not shown with all the rib shapes but should be like the front of an R1 I reckon.
Further thanks - I see what you mean re those offset dowels - like you I don't understand why the holes aren't centred exactly. Yes, I wondered about the notches and those 3/16 side pieces, hope I can figure it out!
Thanks again, Tony
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6 hours ago, kc said:
Further study of the online plan reveals that the wing dowels are not symmetrical - it could be an error or perhaps there is some reason for it that is not obvious to me. F3, the wing plan and 1/8 brace all show this uneven spacing, so there may be a reason. Clearly the wing brace needs building into the wing the same way round as F3 is drilled.
Thanks again KC. You guys who've been doing this for decades need to appreciate that newcomers don't share your expertise! I built a couple of balsa & tissue KeilKraft planes in my teens, but got back into this game only about 7 years ago; interpreting these plans is challenging since we lack experience. I don't understand your reference to the wing dowels not being symmetrical. I know what you mean about the upper notches on F3, and I just hope that as I continue to fiddle around, their purpose might become clearer. I'm reasonably flexible (have built two kits incorporating some personal changes, each flew well) and might just use my initiative instead of trying to follow a plan I don't understand. I'm already having to adapt this plane, since it was designed for i/c and I'm installing electric - did this with another ready-made plane I bought s/h and it flies well.
rgds Tony
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17 hours ago, kc said:
I would suggest cutting a ply or cardboard template from the plan with top longeron to wing seat profile and using that to locate the wing seating parts.
If you can obtain the wing bolt brackets as shown then it should work OK but if they are not available now then you may have to think of alternatives and that's best done at this stage. The note about wing bolts seems to refer to Peter Miller's way of pointing bits of wing bolt in a pencil sharpener and letting them mark the exact point on the wing to place holes. Just protruding a fraction they make indentation marks.
I suggest cutting the 3/16 sheet spar with spar doubler and fitting them to F3 and dowels before building wing. Then ensure it all aligns. When it's OK build the wing onto that sheet spar and doubler. Actually I cannot see why F3 has notches level with the dowels but there may be some reason!
Thanks for your advice. I don't follow your closing query: F3 has a few notches, but level with the dowels...?
rgds Tony
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26 minutes ago, kc said:
It's this one on Outerzone isn't it? It looks pretty conventional, so what item is not clear? Have you studied the photos in the article? (article is online too ) Your F5 looks a bit different and lacks the ply each side -so far. I think many people would fit the wing bolt mounts to F5 and drill the dowel holes in F3 before assembling - then make the wing to fit the dowel holes and wing bolt mounts. But it looks OK as it is so far.
Yup, the very same - and naturally I have the article, which serves as a very basic set of instructions. My F5 is cut & fitted exactly according to plan, though I cut it out as a single piece, and the side apertures for longerons aren't cut yet; perhaps you refer to the on-edge strips of ply fitted side to side across the upper edge of F5, sandwiching some trailing-edge section balsa? I haven't cut & fitted those yet. I take your point about the wing fixing bolts. My current concern is to understand fully the size, shape and exact relationship between those "1/8" hard rails", the 3/16" balsa strips, and the F4 - F5 between which they're fitted. I'll just have to take it slow and easy.
Thanks - Tony
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I wonder if anyone here has built this? It's from quite some years ago I believe. This is my first attempt at building from a plan, and I find some aspects of the plans very difficult to interpret. The fuselage is more than half assembled, next stage being to complete the wing-bearing platform above the cabin - and I'm concerned about getting it wrong. Might build the wing next instead, since that might assist in getting the fit-to-fuselage process right.
All advice welcomed - rgds Tony
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7 hours ago, Chris Walby said:
Hi, I have used Chris at SLEC a number of times from complex rescales/multiple part wings to simple stuff, just depends on the cost, ease of construction and where you get your wood from.
Very satisfied with the work and assistance everyone at SLEC has given over the years.
That's useful to know, Chris - willcontact SLEC when I'm back in the UK and ready to re-start my plane build.
rgds Tony
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50 minutes ago, John Lee said:
SLEC do a laser cutting service.
I've not used their bespoke laser cutting (although I have built from their kits) but everything I have had from them over the decades has been excellent.
Thanks John, I'll consult SLEC.
rgds Tony
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52 minutes ago, Andy Gates said:
Hi Tony,
If you are doing a straight wing then I would suggest making a template from stiff card or thin ply and use that to cut your ribs out.
Otherwise I know there are places that can laser cut parts for you but as they are a one off they tend to be a bit pricey.
Failing that, pick a plan from someone like Sarik who can do short kits with the plan.
Thanks Andy. The Bird Dog isn't a wholly straight wing, and I really don't want the labour of making 3-4 different sizes of rib. I've already started building from a plan, scaled down, and I don't want to abandon it - though there is a nice Bird Dog from Sarik. Happy to pay a few quid for accurate bespoke ribs.
rgds Tony
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1 hour ago, Geoff Peacock said:
I bought some here http://www.igull.co.uk/page0/ recently. Should be worth a look.
Thanks Geoff, but this chap doesn't do bespoke, and I'm building from a plan which I've already scaled down to 80% so it's a one off.
rgds Tony
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I enjoy building, but find wing ribs both challenging and tedious. Willing to spend a few quid to get them done by someone else. Not sure how it works! Can someone recommend a good reliable UK service for doing this? This winter I hope to finish a Cessna Bird Dog, wingspan around 60", ribs not too complex.
rgds Tony
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1 hour ago, Philip Lewis 3 said:
Stereo lead should work just fine, I've only ever used a long stereo lead and have budied up to many Spectrum sets with no problem at all.
Thanks Phillip, will try that - far easier to obtain than mono.
rgds Tony
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3 hours ago, Rich Griff said:
No idea...how many wires/terminals/contact pins and sockets ?
Sticking a "too large" probe into a female contact will "enlarge" the hole detrimentally, poor contact ...
I know you will have a multimeter...
Hope it's just a lead problem ( broken wire ) , post a picture of the leads ends and tx sockets please...
A "loose" tx socket a possibility as you said you tried a new lead ?
Thanks again. Lead has sealed plugs, can't inspect joints. TX sockets seem firm.
rgds Tony
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18 hours ago, Rich Griff said:
There will only be a few wires in the cable to do a continuity/wiggle/very light load test can be performed, unlike the pug, 87 wires checked ( and another 19 in the drivers door loom ) anything other than a full "pass" on each wire, the wire was replaced. Not easy on a pug, loom stripped etc., but pleased to say all good now.
Check the lead, we all have multi meters don't we ?
Just use very small needle soldered to wire to make probes. Back probe is much safer than front probe...no risk of "expanding" the female connections...
Thanks Rich. To be honest, I don't understand much of what you say! However, perhaps you can tell me whether a new lead using 3.5mm stereo jacks would work: loads of these available, even here in a large store in my nearest French town, but finding a lead with mon jacks is like searching for hen's teeth. If I were in England, I have boxes full of cable, plugs of all sorts, soldering gear - but my French workshop is more modestly supplied.
rgds Tony
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Thanks fellows, solid advice. From memory (it was a few weeks ago) we did try a different jack lead - same result, no buddying...
But I'll dismantle the lead and check everything again.
rgds Tony
learning to fly - paid tuition West Country?
in Beginners
Posted
Thanks David. No doubt the setup you describe works better than the simulation software (couple of different ones) I've tried so far, find them very unsatisfactory. I'll look into Aerofly, and perhaps you could provide details of the USB controller - ?